91 Extracab Frame Up Rebuild
#41
Ooooo...the pics! The motor does look good. And, everything else is looking dynamite. Best of luck with it, Cyber. I'll keep watching the progress.
BTW, thanks for giving me the body removal rundown. I don't have a highlift, but maybe 4 bottle jacks at key lift points will work. Hmmm.....
BTW, thanks for giving me the body removal rundown. I don't have a highlift, but maybe 4 bottle jacks at key lift points will work. Hmmm.....
#43
IFS, because this truck will be lucky to see mud as it's toughest terrain. It isn't for rock crawling, it's for hauling firewood and walking through the snow. With IFS and the 4" lift, it will easily handle what I will throw at it. I'm using 3.slow, because although they have their issues, I was able to get one with low original miles (30,000). I will be okay with the risk of possibly having a problem 90,000 mi. down the road, or sooner. This isn't my daily driver, so if it dies, oh well. I only paid $150 for the engine, and the 3.4 was going to cost $800, I had to pull it myself, and the motor had over 140k already on it.
I'll have some more exciting pics real soon.
I'll have some more exciting pics real soon.
#49
Still waiting, so I pulled the rear windshield, the fuel lines and this is what's left of the interior. I'm this far, might as well pull the rest.

And here is another pic of the rust to contend with. I ground it down to bare metal later to prep for welding.

And here is another pic of the rust to contend with. I ground it down to bare metal later to prep for welding.
#50
Contributing Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 9,055
Likes: 10
From: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada
Wow, that looks great
Just a suggestion. You should consider doing a crossover elimination. Fix the stupid toyota design ( passenger side getting stuffed into the drivers side manifold backwards). You will gain some power and help the 3.0 breath.
Just a suggestion. You should consider doing a crossover elimination. Fix the stupid toyota design ( passenger side getting stuffed into the drivers side manifold backwards). You will gain some power and help the 3.0 breath.
#51
If I get the money before the body is done (which I'm sure I probably will), I will be putting a full Downey exhaust on it from the headers back.
#52
Contributing Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 9,055
Likes: 10
From: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada
I have seen a few guys on here do it:
To simplify the process you:
- Cut and block the hole that the crossover would usually dump into on the drivers side manifold
- Im not sure how the passenger side dumps out, you might need to mod that a little to get it to dump straight down.
- Go get some pipe bent and route it down and cross that over near your transmission.
If you search it, you will find pictures. Sorry, im not to much help. If you just look at the manifolds im sure you can picture how it would go.
If you decide to go with headers, I would avoid the full downy system. They use a 2.5" pipe, which IMO is a little big for the 3vze. 2.25" is pretty much as big as you need to go. Its only a 3L
To simplify the process you:
- Cut and block the hole that the crossover would usually dump into on the drivers side manifold
- Im not sure how the passenger side dumps out, you might need to mod that a little to get it to dump straight down.
- Go get some pipe bent and route it down and cross that over near your transmission.
If you search it, you will find pictures. Sorry, im not to much help. If you just look at the manifolds im sure you can picture how it would go.
If you decide to go with headers, I would avoid the full downy system. They use a 2.5" pipe, which IMO is a little big for the 3vze. 2.25" is pretty much as big as you need to go. Its only a 3L
Last edited by Jay351; May 22, 2008 at 02:32 PM.
#53
I have seen a few guys on here do it:
To simplify the process you:
- Cut and block the hole that the crossover would usually dump into on the drivers side manifold
- Im not sure how the passenger side dumps out, you might need to mod that a little to get it to dump straight down.
- Go get some pipe bent and route it down and cross that over near your transmission.
If you search it, you will find pictures. Sorry, im not to much help. If you just look at the manifolds im sure you can picture how it would go.
If you decide to go with headers, I would avoid the full downy system. They use a 2.5" pipe, which IMO is a little big for the 3vze. 2.25" is pretty much as big as you need to go. Its only a 3L
To simplify the process you:
- Cut and block the hole that the crossover would usually dump into on the drivers side manifold
- Im not sure how the passenger side dumps out, you might need to mod that a little to get it to dump straight down.
- Go get some pipe bent and route it down and cross that over near your transmission.
If you search it, you will find pictures. Sorry, im not to much help. If you just look at the manifolds im sure you can picture how it would go.
If you decide to go with headers, I would avoid the full downy system. They use a 2.5" pipe, which IMO is a little big for the 3vze. 2.25" is pretty much as big as you need to go. Its only a 3L

#54
Contributing Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 9,055
Likes: 10
From: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada
Trust me. 2.5" will result in less low end power, where the 3.0 needs it most. 2.25" seems to best the best of both worlds. And I won't comment on downeys "quality" on their exhaust products.
#55
#56
Nice job man. You are building my favorite Toyota except for the 3slow, but very nice job. Man you should have put a 22re in that..........................
You use what you got though. I know what you mean.

You use what you got though. I know what you mean.
#57
Another quick shot I took tonight. The only mechanical piece left on the body are the hood hinges, and the hood prop.

It's amazing to see 17 years of built up crap in the heating & A/C components. With this all done, I await assistance with a welder. Then it'll be time to prep for paint.
I hope this engine runs, or I'll have one really nice looking non running truck.

It's amazing to see 17 years of built up crap in the heating & A/C components. With this all done, I await assistance with a welder. Then it'll be time to prep for paint.
I hope this engine runs, or I'll have one really nice looking non running truck.
#60
More progress. I picked up an old hood for the sheet metal and cut some pieces to fix the rust issues in the cab. A friend came over with a mig welder, and after today, got the bottom and part of the engine bay finished.
I intend to have the cab back on the frame next weekend.
More pics:
How I managed to get the cab on its side without crushing it.


The rot


Looking much better

I intend to have the cab back on the frame next weekend.
More pics:
How I managed to get the cab on its side without crushing it.


The rot


Looking much better








