Haha yeah just bugging ya. When i went from 22R to 22RE i didn't notice any power difference really. But i am getting better milage fuel injected, 1-2 MPG.

 

YES, now that I think about it.... I DID have a battery with 'defective cells' or something... it would charge, but never enough, and on occasion, it would surge or something and not allow charging, .... subsequently cutting power/causing problems in my IGN/Chassis elec. systems. Replaced the battery and voila, solved. However, .... 3 times, that warning light stuff you're getting, in mine, was a bad alternator. 1 time, in fact, IT WAS a bad ground wire from the harness to ign on drivers side that goes to the steering brace(14g wire)

 

and another question for you guys who did a engine swap from 22R to 22RE, mind me askin how much it ran ya? pretty spendy? price wise to be certain lol.

 

that wire should be fine on mine, it never moved at all. i still gotta go get my battery tested though

jeremys it depends on what you can find an engine for and all the parts needed to swap it

 

ohh i see, and i was wonderin hilbilly did you rattle can your truck? the paint job looks good, what kind of paint did you use?

 

this is a long thread.....but worth the read.
red.....tires....lights....interior...bumper...22r e swap....sas.....does it ever stop?
(answer) never!
very good pics,nice sas.

keep the progress comming!

 

thanks.



so im still having problems with this thing.

i got a new battery, mostly under warranty so it was only 15 bucks. it started up after like a day and a half, but now it has to be jumped if its been sitting for a while, again. maybe the alternator isnt charging the battery completely? if the truck has been sitting for a while and i start the truck, the charge and brake light do NOT come on. after a bit of driving they come on again. i havent seen them with the new battery yet though. what the hell???

also, the fuel and temp gauge used to always work, now they work every once in a while. i dont get it

 

If the battery is dying I doubt it's fully charged. Put it on a battery charger for a couple hours and see what happens. What kind of bat. is it?

 

As simple as it is that is a sweet ride, I like the older toys...When I get my 89 SR5running I am going to sell my 96 T just caus I can!

 

I would guess that you either are dealing with a SLOWLY failing alternator, like I'd thought.... or bad cell. Now that you have a NEW replacement battery(I'm guessing you had the old one prorated and they made you pay the difference?)....well, then I would just go back to alternator or SHORT(GOSHHHHHHHH i hate that word! IT MEANS GREMLIN HUNTING! GRRRR! lol)...

Have you voltage and amperage metered the Alternator while it's running<>>>> For a decent amount of time and under load(with the lights and radio and headlights on, etc)? I can't remember, sorry if you have.

Considering you're having trouble starting it after it sits..... is it possible that something is 'running on'? Have you read the battery when you turned it off.... then again a couple days later? It shouldn't drop from 12.30 Volts to Under 11.5(where it begins to give trouble starting) by just sitting for 2 days....)

 

worst case put in a battery disconnect switch

 

nice horns....

 

its definitely charged. i disconnected the battery and it fires right up the next day. something is just draining it.

i havent measured the alt, but im 99% sure its good. if the battery is disconnected then it will start right up.


also the brake and charge light are flashing now, no matter what RPM. not a steady flash, but coming on and off. i did finally ground the last ground, had to extend it. didnt change anything either. fuel and temp gauge havent worked for a while now. i haaaaate electrical

 

if you want help i can try and help you just let me know.

 

will do, i dont have anythin to do on friday so ill probably be workin on it. might go talk to those guys on nord too. i guess my brother knew em a little bit

 

Hmmm, ok, you're positive the Alt is good then. Ok, so, my guess would be(IF IT IS GOOD, lol)... that there is a portion of the circuit between the Alternator and Battery that is not complete(not allowing it to fully charge).

When you're running, and you read the voltage at the battery, ....what do you read? Have you read it like I was saying before, .......Read it for a few minutes, seeing if it starts out fine, charging a lil bit, and then drops off.... Ya know? Should be around 14.5V

(I know, I think you went through all this, ...just refreshing myself and maybe sparking some guru to lash out at me and solve your problem............SHHHHHHH!) hahahaa.

Best wishes on Friday, Bud!

 

well let me no when you wanna work on it. and ill be there

 

shoot, i forgot. ill call ya later this weekend, i didnt do nothin today.

i still havent checked it with a volt meter, i dont have any tools here haha.

i also might be trading for this....




89K original miles and clean title and tags good 2012
3.8 buick carb with edelbrock carb and manifold
chevy 350 trans with cooler
4.88 gears
Detroit locker front
detroit locker rear
33 inch tires
holly fuel pump
oil press gauge
temp gauge

 

Looks like a cool truck, but yours is too. Keep in mind that you can count on having problems with it no matter what it is haha i feel your pain when it comes to chasing down problems. Keep up the good work.

 

aint that how it always is haha. nice bumper by the way