87hillbillyoter's 87 slow broke build
Mar 22, 2011 | 08:23 PM
#302
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From: N. Lake Tahoe/Chico CA
HAHAHA... Love hate relationship, eh? MORE HATE, clearly, lol.
Anyway.... just trying to think of how they came to that conclusion that the issue with you pulling, etc., was the "CV's and Hubs" ....>?? that right? What exactly did they say? Did they explain to you why what they're saying needs to be done would cause your issues? Not saying it's unlikely, ..just curious.
Anyway.... just trying to think of how they came to that conclusion that the issue with you pulling, etc., was the "CV's and Hubs" ....>?? that right? What exactly did they say? Did they explain to you why what they're saying needs to be done would cause your issues? Not saying it's unlikely, ..just curious.
Exactly what I was thinking.... and "how did they come to the conclusion that your CV's were bad? Did they show you, etc.?". You could see the bearings locking up and causing this though, right B? It happened to me before, and was VERY scary! It also actually happened to my brother with us in the car, ....68 Z28, ..... hauling butt and at 65 the wheel started tugging hard, almost crashed, then the wheel came right off and went under us!
CV's are stupid the first time you do them, because halfway through you realize that it takes way too much effort to get the axle to clear the studs on the diff to drop it out. Then you make a few changes, get rid of the studs, and its a ten minute job for the next time 
Mar 22, 2011 | 08:58 PM
#304
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From: St. Albert, AB
NAPA CV's.
If the CV just spins inside the hub, try rebuilding the hub. It has happened to me twice before, I lost four wheel drive and couldn't figure out what was wrong on the trail (too much mud to see anything
) but I took it home, looked inside one of the hubs and one little part wasn't lined up properly (because it had popped out of the spring or something, can't quite remember) and was preventing it from operating properly. Took the locking mechanism apart, put it back together, and it works fine.
If the CV just spins inside the hub, try rebuilding the hub. It has happened to me twice before, I lost four wheel drive and couldn't figure out what was wrong on the trail (too much mud to see anything
) but I took it home, looked inside one of the hubs and one little part wasn't lined up properly (because it had popped out of the spring or something, can't quite remember) and was preventing it from operating properly. Took the locking mechanism apart, put it back together, and it works fine.
Mar 22, 2011 | 10:34 PM
#306
Yeah, take the hubs apart... pull them. Inside, where the axle sits, could very well be where those pieces of metal are coming from. Could be something inside the hub just exploded inside around the CV spline... and voila, you no worky and you be pullin one way or da udder! lol. Those bearings are in there pretty secure, ..so for one to seize up, it might have to be either dry or just, well, done, or maybe something has exploded in there and spun under the inner bearing??
I'm sure if you just pull that hub out you'll see pretty quickly what exactly your issue is. Ask Napa about OEM-renamed Bearings while you talk to them, IF you talk to them? They had them when i did mine... Just like they have Altrom(Aisin), etc.
Best wishes, HB!
PS> and yes, might be the inside of the hub, to answer your question. Would make sense if it's locking up on you, as well. Like Brandon said, "Unlikely for it to lock up out of 4wd", ....UNLESS something spun out in there and is lodging itself? Is it driving straight, some times, then suddenly just TUGS, right?
I'm sure if you just pull that hub out you'll see pretty quickly what exactly your issue is. Ask Napa about OEM-renamed Bearings while you talk to them, IF you talk to them? They had them when i did mine... Just like they have Altrom(Aisin), etc.
Best wishes, HB!
PS> and yes, might be the inside of the hub, to answer your question. Would make sense if it's locking up on you, as well. Like Brandon said, "Unlikely for it to lock up out of 4wd", ....UNLESS something spun out in there and is lodging itself? Is it driving straight, some times, then suddenly just TUGS, right?
Mar 23, 2011 | 03:26 AM
#307
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From: Wilkes-Barre, PA, USA
I have a set of hubs here, I need to tear apart and clean up, that I was considering selling the set. Actually started a thread about it awhile back, and Wabbit had mentioned me either breaking up the set selling one and keep 1 as a spare which is why I still have the set for spares, or grabbing an ADD flange for emergency repair. I like the keep one and sell one idea better since I have the manual hub in hand already and they can be difficult to find. Wabbit has them on his site as well, I think brand new IIRC or at least fully refurbished.
Mar 23, 2011 | 11:02 AM
#308
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From: N. Lake Tahoe/Chico CA
Yeah, take the hubs apart... pull them. Inside, where the axle sits, could very well be where those pieces of metal are coming from. Could be something inside the hub just exploded inside around the CV spline... and voila, you no worky and you be pullin one way or da udder! lol. Those bearings are in there pretty secure, ..so for one to seize up, it might have to be either dry or just, well, done, or maybe something has exploded in there and spun under the inner bearing??
I'm sure if you just pull that hub out you'll see pretty quickly what exactly your issue is. Ask Napa about OEM-renamed Bearings while you talk to them, IF you talk to them? They had them when i did mine... Just like they have Altrom(Aisin), etc.
Best wishes, HB!
PS> and yes, might be the inside of the hub, to answer your question. Would make sense if it's locking up on you, as well. Like Brandon said, "Unlikely for it to lock up out of 4wd", ....UNLESS something spun out in there and is lodging itself? Is it driving straight, some times, then suddenly just TUGS, right?
I'm sure if you just pull that hub out you'll see pretty quickly what exactly your issue is. Ask Napa about OEM-renamed Bearings while you talk to them, IF you talk to them? They had them when i did mine... Just like they have Altrom(Aisin), etc.
Best wishes, HB!
PS> and yes, might be the inside of the hub, to answer your question. Would make sense if it's locking up on you, as well. Like Brandon said, "Unlikely for it to lock up out of 4wd", ....UNLESS something spun out in there and is lodging itself? Is it driving straight, some times, then suddenly just TUGS, right?
sounds like you either snapped the cv at the c-clip like I mentioned earlier, or took a few splines off of it. Don't recall you saying that before or how big that piece was, but it would make perfect sense. A floating piece of metal in there can inadvertently lock that side hub causing the pull and has the potential to really wreak havok on the hub.
I have a set of hubs here, I need to tear apart and clean up, that I was considering selling the set. Actually started a thread about it awhile back, and Wabbit had mentioned me either breaking up the set selling one and keep 1 as a spare which is why I still have the set for spares, or grabbing an ADD flange for emergency repair. I like the keep one and sell one idea better since I have the manual hub in hand already and they can be difficult to find. Wabbit has them on his site as well, I think brand new IIRC or at least fully refurbished.
I have a set of hubs here, I need to tear apart and clean up, that I was considering selling the set. Actually started a thread about it awhile back, and Wabbit had mentioned me either breaking up the set selling one and keep 1 as a spare which is why I still have the set for spares, or grabbing an ADD flange for emergency repair. I like the keep one and sell one idea better since I have the manual hub in hand already and they can be difficult to find. Wabbit has them on his site as well, I think brand new IIRC or at least fully refurbished.
Mar 23, 2011 | 07:09 PM
#309
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From: northen nevada
I got my CV axels from O'reillys for 60 each and every time I took them back they gave me new ones no charge also I had a CV lock up once and it made the truck pull right up until the hub striped out that is when I switched to locking hubs on my 94 but I was really hard on that truck
Mar 31, 2011 | 06:09 PM
#310
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From: N. Lake Tahoe/Chico CA
ok guys, i need your help here. i bought cv axles for 60 each from napa, and im happy haha. but, i have run into a few problems! first off, the gold bolt that you see in this picture (borrowed from toyospearo's thread), is snapped, inside there. somebody must have gone in there and left it. kind of scary knowing i have been driving around this whole time with it like that! any ideas? i dont have a tap set, but i might have to get one.
secondly, i cant get the stupid cone washers off! also seen in above pic. i have tried a hammer and a 15mm socket like toyo said, tried a chisel, and they wont budge. i dont have a torch (that works) either. any ideas for this? thanks guys
secondly, i cant get the stupid cone washers off! also seen in above pic. i have tried a hammer and a 15mm socket like toyo said, tried a chisel, and they wont budge. i dont have a torch (that works) either. any ideas for this? thanks guys
Mar 31, 2011 | 06:28 PM
#311
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From: Wilkes-Barre, PA, USA
try tapping on the hub itself. left and right. Just be careful how hard you hit them as they are only aluminum and will mar and dent up pretty easily. Also try hitting them with some PB blaster. IIRC that bolt goes straight to the cv. Might have to cut it out if the head is snapped off. Also IIRC that bolt should even be torqued tight enough to snap it, unless they tried to remove it at one point and snapped it that way.
Mar 31, 2011 | 06:37 PM
#312
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From: way way nor cal
No need to heat them up like I did in that above pic. An old timer taught me a better way.. Take a brass drift and a hammer. Put the brass drift right on the head of the stud. Hit the drift a few times not too hard and it will set even the worst cone washer free!!
I have never had one not come off using this method just dont hit too hard. Some of them will be loose but you can't tell unless you look close.
I have never had one not come off using this method just dont hit too hard. Some of them will be loose but you can't tell unless you look close.
Last edited by toyospearo; Mar 31, 2011 at 06:38 PM.
Mar 31, 2011 | 09:58 PM
#314
No need to heat them up like I did in that above pic. An old timer taught me a better way.. Take a brass drift and a hammer. Put the brass drift right on the head of the stud. Hit the drift a few times not too hard and it will set even the worst cone washer free!!
I have never had one not come off using this method just dont hit too hard. Some of them will be loose but you can't tell unless you look close.
I have never had one not come off using this method just dont hit too hard. Some of them will be loose but you can't tell unless you look close.
ExACTLY what I did, HB! I had my neighbor give me a big brass drift(3/4" diameter).... and only thing I'd add is that I put the nuts back on and put them to plum with the head of the studs...that way, you don't slip and flatten a thread or two, eh?
hahaha. Sorry bout that bolt, ....hey, think after all they told you that maybe you had a lil problem there that they didn't catch? lol.
Nothing to grab onto, eh? I had to use a Napa kit on an exhaust stud one time...worked great! Can't remember the number of it though... maybe they would know if you called one of them with a 'knowledgeable guy' at the counter? (Napa seems to have the best Tap&D sets, chase kits, etc. At least most Guru's whom I've spoken with feel so. Unless you wanna call Snap On, ............."crickets".... anyone? Bueller? lol.
Mar 31, 2011 | 10:06 PM
#315
Hey,....yours are ADD, Hillbilly? If so, that bolt holds on, ....pretty much everything, lol. I have a full exploded view of that set up if it's ADD.....if ya need it. Sorry if I'm wrong, I just thought the Manual set up didn't have it, and instead just had the 54MM adjusting nut, etc...... ???????????????????? lol.
Mar 31, 2011 | 10:49 PM
#316
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From: N. Lake Tahoe/Chico CA
ExACTLY what I did, HB! I had my neighbor give me a big brass drift(3/4" diameter).... and only thing I'd add is that I put the nuts back on and put them to plum with the head of the studs...that way, you don't slip and flatten a thread or two, eh? hahaha.
Sorry bout that bolt, ....hey, think after all they told you that maybe you had a lil problem there that they didn't catch? lol.
Nothing to grab onto, eh? I had to use a Napa kit on an exhaust stud one time...worked great! Can't remember the number of it though... maybe they would know if you called one of them with a 'knowledgeable guy' at the counter? (Napa seems to have the best Tap&D sets, chase kits, etc. At least most Guru's whom I've spoken with feel so. Unless you wanna call Snap On, ............."crickets".... anyone? Bueller? lol.
hahaha. Sorry bout that bolt, ....hey, think after all they told you that maybe you had a lil problem there that they didn't catch? lol.
Nothing to grab onto, eh? I had to use a Napa kit on an exhaust stud one time...worked great! Can't remember the number of it though... maybe they would know if you called one of them with a 'knowledgeable guy' at the counter? (Napa seems to have the best Tap&D sets, chase kits, etc. At least most Guru's whom I've spoken with feel so. Unless you wanna call Snap On, ............."crickets".... anyone? Bueller? lol.
Apr 1, 2011 | 06:34 AM
#318
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From: New Britain, CT
No need to heat them up like I did in that above pic. An old timer taught me a better way.. Take a brass drift and a hammer. Put the brass drift right on the head of the stud. Hit the drift a few times not too hard and it will set even the worst cone washer free!!
I have never had one not come off using this method just dont hit too hard. Some of them will be loose but you can't tell unless you look close.
I have never had one not come off using this method just dont hit too hard. Some of them will be loose but you can't tell unless you look close.
Hillbilly: If you can get your hands on a torch, I highly suggest it. It's a stress reliever in the middle of a hard job!
Apr 1, 2011 | 07:37 AM
#319
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From: St. Albert, AB
Just be really careful with a torch because again the hub is aluminium and you could potentially warp it if it gets too hot. Like those guys are saying, back the nuts off to the end of the stud and hit the studs rather than the hub. Another trick is to get a flathead screwdriver and tap it into the cone washer where it is split, and that should pop it out as well but there is a chance that you might need a new cone washer after.
Apr 1, 2011 | 08:43 AM
#320
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From: N. Lake Tahoe/Chico CA
thank you sir!
haha ok, ill see what i can do. im gonna try the brass punch first though lol
ok, thanks for all the suggestions guys! if i cant do it with the punch, ill try the torch then the screwdriver! thanks yall!
I guess you don't HAVE to use a torch, but using a torch on the cone washers is so much FUN! Just focus the torch on each one and they start popping off the hub like mexican jumping beans! It's magic!
Hillbilly: If you can get your hands on a torch, I highly suggest it. It's a stress reliever in the middle of a hard job!
Hillbilly: If you can get your hands on a torch, I highly suggest it. It's a stress reliever in the middle of a hard job!
Just be really careful with a torch because again the hub is aluminium and you could potentially warp it if it gets too hot. Like those guys are saying, back the nuts off to the end of the stud and hit the studs rather than the hub. Another trick is to get a flathead screwdriver and tap it into the cone washer where it is split, and that should pop it out as well but there is a chance that you might need a new cone washer after.
