87hoerunner

who did your exhaust? Mark at dublin muffler?

im pretty sure he can put you in a bung for the oxygen sensor.He is the best around here

87blackbeauty

Yeah, Mark did it. I'm not sure if I'll have it bunged really. If I do, I'll likely do it myself. However, I'm not really happy with the disappearance of all my low end with the pacesetter, so I plan to get the Downey or Thorley header, whichever is a 4-2-1. I also plan to add either a resonator or cat to quiet down the flowmaster. It's not bad, but it's louder than I like. A cat would add some backpressure and restore some low end, so I think maybe it's the way to go. It's also better for the environment, which I do care about.

87hoerunner

Mine pulls really good with the exhaust on mine its got a glasspack 2" and then a 1 in 2 out muffler. Still has factory manifold and no cat, hoping to put a header and cam in my motor build if money works out.

87hoerunner

Hey man need to get with you and come look at the runner and see what I need and talk about some prices

87blackbeauty

That's fine with me. I'll pm you my number in a little while, and you can contact me anytime.

87blackbeauty

Real update: I haven't done a ton to the truck recently, and haven't driven it much in the past couple weeks because it's been rainy and the tires are starting to really wear out (they hydroplane pretty easy at this point) but i do a little thing here and there.


I'm a proponent for crimp connectors under the hood. I hear that all the heat from the engine bay has a chance at messing up your solder and giving off a bad connection. I believe it so don't try to convince me otherwise. This was done because the front to my tps plug was non-existent. I had an extra, so on it went and now my tps works.


I'm a tad more excited about this. Zuk mod. What else do I need to say. They just showed up today and I found out by checking their status because I figured they'd be in Texas by now (expected delivery was Friday) and it said they were delivered at 1pm! My jaw dropped. I ordered Monday and they shipped out Tuesday morning. What incredible ship time! 2 days! Anyway, I'll post again tomorrow if all goes well with before and after pictures and maybe some install tips if anything about this job is complicated.

Roark

Hey blackbeauty, this 4Runner is looking good! And score finding a girl that'll help you with the dirty work. I sent you a PM concerning your SR5 rims, also..

87blackbeauty

Thanks! She's pretty great. A keeper to me if I can hold on. Anyway I don't think I'll be selling the stock rims unfortunately. Sorry. I might want to return the truck to stock as a restoration effort one day and these are a part I want to keep!

87blackbeauty

Before:


After:


The rear end came up right around 1 and 1/2 inches. Maybe a little more. Looks like a ton! I'm very happy with it and my results are like many others. Ride comfort has increased, and body roll has decreased. The only tip I have is to go ahead and get the spring compressors. I popped mine right in using them. Easy peasy.

Roark

Totally get that! It's why I'm looking for them, myself. Best of luck!

matt18603

Great thread, been following it. Im headed towards a rebuild or swap myself and appreciate what you documented. Good lookin rig though man. Compound that paint out and itll look sweet as hell.

87blackbeauty

Thanks for that man. Actually, that's on the list for things to do to this truck. It's next as a matter of fact. Current short term list is to get a resonator or cat to quiet it down some, restore paintwork, and then address my power grievances. I'm very needy when it comes to power so there is some chance of a swap. It just sucks that I want to keep it both Toyota and an inline 4. I wish Toyota made the sr20det... 220 is right where I want to be with a 4 banger. It seems a 3rz will do, plus a turbo in the future , But for now I may be with the re a while, as I want another daily driver before I get into that sort of thing. In order, I want to:

1: Paintwork (ASAP)
1.5: Quiet the exhaust
2: Wheels and tires
3: Front end flexibility increased (nothing crazy though. No long travel kits)
4: Interior padding and more sr5 equipment if possible.
5: Carpet. All new.
6 Power Concerns.

Sorry, forgot the exhaust. Added it in. Anyway, thanks for following the thread! I'll try to do more as I have money, but being 20 with a girlfriend and minimum wage job are not conducive to money for my yota.

matt18603

Gotcha, I have a list as well, but not as orderly as yours. I do have some rust holes on my cab corners that needs to be cut out. I have the panels for it, but I need someone to do the cutting and welding.
Full exhaust system needs replaced. Ive been piecing it together but I found that I have a really bad front pipe. SO that leads me to watching your thread concerning your header.
That leads me to the engine. The truck has 212k and I want to do the head over and have it done right. I figured also, that the chain and guides should be checked as well. If it still has factory guides, Im going to replace them with steel ones from engnbldr.

But this is my decision....do I do what I planned on? OR just rebuild the engine completely? Theres no knocking or bottom noise at all. Hence, why Im watching and reading your thread and doing my research.

OH, forgot the body lift. Im not into extreme off-roading. Just want a dependable and capable daily driver.

87blackbeauty

Trust me, it's not at all as organized as it appears. Things may not happen in that order, they just happen as they come up.

I think the cutting part for your rust you could do yourself, but I would definitely let someone very experienced do the welding. It's super hard when you get a thin metal like that. I've been studying welding a lot and even plan to take a class on mig and maybe arc/stick (if I can) over the summer, but most people do bodywork with tig or a series of little tack welds they then sand flat from what I understand. Either way, super easy to warp! I wouldn't trust myself doing it. Especially since all I've got is a little flux core machine. Short answer, you cut, they weld would be the cheapest probably.

An exhaust needing replacement requires very little explanation. But here's some. According to the engnbldr guy, who's name eludes me, the optimal exhaust on these trucks (22r-e) up to 150hp is whatever header setup with a cat to keep backpressure, 2" back to your muffler, and 2 1/4" after muffler. He claims that's what these engines want.

Your rebuild/replace debate on the other hand, I'd say ask a trusted machine shop. The block to the engine out of my truck looks beautiful internally. There isn't even a lip from the piston rings travel. I've only had a chevy opposed six apart this far before this engine, but after either 65,000 or 165,000 it already had a lip that required shaving before honing the cylinder wall. And your crank would just need to be balanced. Other than that, I don't think the bottom end of these engines is worth worry. I only want to rebuild mine because those valves slamming into the pistons worries me. Right along with the fact that there was metal in the oil pan. And more than just some broken sprocket teeth.

And as far as the guides go, I don't think the plastic is the problem necessarily, though metal backed guides are better. I think it is the China quality guides that my engine had put in a mere 10-15k before that all happened. I say go Toyota equipment or go home at this point! Or get LCE stuff!

I'll be honest with you, I'm not a fan of body lifts. But they get the job done I suppose. Hahaha. They are a pretty good alternative to expensive and tedious suspension parts, but I personally just couldn't stand to see any more frame than I can now on my truck. I like suspension lifts for their added flexibility too.

Hope that helps answer some of your questions and concerns. Maybe there's some thinking juice in there mixed up with my rambling. Who knows? hahaha

87blackbeauty

Quick update: 2nd truck is actually being parted out. I'll be pulling anything worth money off this coming week and hauling the body to the scrapyard. I'm not going to pull the third members because I don't think I'll use them and they're 4.10's anyway so they won't sell for more than $30 anyway. I will pull the whole dash, ecu and wiring for inside/under hood, transmission and drivelines, hopefully to be bought by 87hoerunner, but if not for whatever reason, I know it'll sell because it's low mileage and clean. Also out will come the seats and clutch and brake assembly, blah blah blah. If anybody needs anything let me know. I'll make a classified ad after I take some pictures.

87blackbeauty

Okay yotatech, let's talk a minute since it's 2 in the morning here in Georgia. I've been doing some odd and end stuff here and there as time goes and I thought I could let you all in on it. First, I took the inclinometer from the other truck and slapped it in.

You CAN plug this in with a little effort without pulling out your radio or something.


I was delighted to see this on the bottom of my dash pad before I started making spots to cut. Punched out like nothing. Which may not really be that good of a thing. hahaha


Bam! It's in!


And my old heater/ac bezel was in ruins so I ordered this! And got a clock and bunch of other crap including another clutch start cancel switch.


Installed with the ac punchout punched out. Tehe


Buffed the truck to a shine and that accentuated both black beauty's beauty and the fact that my lower valence was in shambles, so I cut that b off. And accentuated how badly I need a new front bumper... My other end cap feel off recently and now it's just 130% redneck. But, holy high clearance front end batman!


Decided there's no time like the present, and painted these. I wish I could've blasted and powder coated but I still could. I can take apart aisins in my sleep, not to mention I've got extra hubs. But fit now, this should do. They're not on the truck just yet though. I've been busy every day since January 3rd or so...


Then today...

87blackbeauty

And guys, a bad note for today. I think a timing chain guide broke this morning. My engine now has a racket that is rpm related, sounds like a timing chain slapping a cover, and worries me slightly. I need to put on my valve cover gasket I thankfully ordered from LCE while I was getting some other crap like hoses and a hand adjustable idle speed screw. That should be happening tomorrow morning. I must get it done. Maybe it's a bad fan clutch, but I'm not keeping my hopes up really. I've gotten used to hearing these 22r-e's, and this sound is a timing chain slapping a timing cover in my mind. Send to me yet another LCE order is upcoming. Let's hope I'm wrong. Oh yeah, discovered I'm leaking coolant. Bad. My radiator is leaking down to about half full or less, so that has to be sorted out ASAP. Leaking fluids is bad. It's just not plain where from.

matt18603

Damn my heart goes out to ya about the guides. Mine does it too but it seems to be intermittent. Like worse one day, next day not at all. So maybe it isnt? Are you going to do the metal guides? I plan on using them, theyll make a bit more noise than plastic but last a lifetime. BTW, I noticed the polish job, awesome work, looks like a new truck. Nice work.

Gizler00

iTrader: (1)

Great thread!! Sorry to hear about the possible guide issue. I would pull the VC ASAP and take a look see down in there.

87blackbeauty

Thanks guys. I definitely will. And currently I'm seeing how much money I've spent so far on this 22r-e and it's making me think that swap time is coming up sooner than expected. I didn't think I'd put an engine in this truck until 10 years down the road, but it may be just next year if this old slug in it acts up much more. I'd rather wrangle 200 horses than 80.

And yes Matt, I'll be doing metal guides if they are in fact the issue. From LCE or engnbldr.