Sorry, I was still talking about a service manual and it is clear you were talking about wiring. Either way, thanks. Your google-fu is strong!

 

New oxygen sensor. Checked voltages at the ECU. Under load (when it looses power) I am at 700mv. That's barely on the rich side. Seems like my AFR is lean. I would expect 11:1 or 12:1 AFR when under load but 700mv is close to 14:1. I'll be checking fuel pressure next and checking the TPS/VAFM to the ECU.

Anyone know the fueling logic on a 22R-E? Closed loop at idle and open loop under load is what I would expect.
If anyone wants to get me a real number of what their O2 sensor is spitting out under wide open throttle, I'll buy you a beer (or coffee) next time you're in Moab.

 

I did some more driving/testing:

• I occasionally get .9** volts from the O2 sensor when under load.
• AFR is constantly being adjusted. O2 sensor voltages fluctuate from .2v to .8v about 1-2 times a second when in neutral and 2500 rpm.
• Checked injector duty cycle. Max was about 60%. Still not maxing out so I don't think this is a fuel pressure issue.
• Fuel pressure VSV is dead (open). Jumped regulator to "r" port on throttle body. No significant change. Maybe 20rpm increase at idle.
• Checked VAFM voltages at ECU while driving. Smooth and stable. Voltages reflect reasonable air flow numbers.
• Check intake air temp resistance and voltage at ECU. Follows table values.
• Checked TPS values at ECU. Follows table. Smooth fluctuations. Also checked pins on sensor including .1mm and .5mm gaps.
• Truck is not drive-able when knock sensor is unplugged. This tells me the truck is not in failsafe mode.

Other things of note. Fuel pressure VSV power is always 12+ volts at ECU. Never saw it reduced while driving. I live at 6000 feet. Somewhere on this forum I read that the oxygen troubleshooting chart isn't very useful. The pin to check the O2 sensor on the diagnostics terminal will always read 0v above about 4000 feet. I have 33" tires but even in 4 low it is fairly gutless.

I did NOT:

• Check timing while driving
• Check fuel pressure (no banjo fitting though I have the gauge.)
• Take it to sea level
• Put smaller tires on it
• Replace the knock sensor
• Replace the ECU

More parts are arriving that I ordered. Shift knob, seatbelts, factory service manual, oxygen sensor pigtail, speed sensor pigtail, steering shaft rubber coupler, ignition switch lock barrel, tailgate handle, gas tank filler cap, radiator cap, and glass for left mirror.

 

Update. Just rode on the brush guard as my wife floored it (and ran into a scrub oak.) First gear, 4wd, wide open throttle, timing maxes at 12-14 degrees. Idle: 10-12 degrees. When she lets off the pedal, it jumps up to 30-40 degrees (estimated.)

I know I risk detonation but.. I advanced the idle timing to 12-14 degrees without the pins jumpered. It accelerates much better. I have a timing issue, I'd expect 20+ degrees of advance under load. Is it caused by the engine thinking it is knocking, bad ignition box, or bad ECU?

I am running 100 octane fuel at the moment.

 

Sorry a little late on response. You moved it "a tooth"? Looks like three from here, your compression numbers should reflect this.

The cam dowel lines up with the arrow on the top, and the dimple is just to the left of center.

Your timing is going to be overridden by the ecu, pretty much regardless of where you put it as long as it's in the window of adjustment the range the ECU can alter it is much larger than this.

 

I don't know where you are getting three teeth. Maybe you better explain what I'm not seeing. The photo shows the timing mark one tooth off from center. The timing marks are just one tooth left (photo right) of the reference on the rocker assembly. Crank is at 0* BTDC. So that is one tooth off. I have not checked compression yet. Tester is at work and I am not.

If the ECU works like others I've dealt with, the ECU has a timing table referenced to engine load. It doesn't know what your base timing is (distributor position), it only knows how much advance to give the engine for a particular engine load (grams of air per revolution?) So if you advance the base timing, all timing will be advanced until... the engine senses knock. Then the ECU will retard timing until the knock disappears. So if my timing is being retarded due to the ECU thinking there is knock, then I believe you are right, it won't change my final advance. But if the ECU is simply not advancing the timing due to an ECU error, then advancing the base timing will show an increase in final timing as well.

Drivability supports that theory. The truck is much more driveable now. But if you have some more insight, @Co_94_PU, I'm willing to listen.

Some things to consider...
Is it possible some cranks/pulleys/water pumps have misaligned timing marks? With a reman (or Chinese) crank it seems possible the woodruff key might be cut a few degrees off. Water pump reference can be off. Maybe the notch in the pulley isn't in the right spot. I will be verifying TDC independently of the pulley soon.
Also, is it possible the ECU has a very conservative or mis-computed timing table? I have done a bit of reading and I'm not the only one to have experienced the overly-sluggish feeling of this engine without some additional advance.

 

Here's some pretty lines to clarify.
Photo was taken BEFORE I moved the chain.
Green is reference on cam sprocket.
Red is reference on rocker assembly.
Green got moved to where red is. = 1 tooth

 

The dowel lines up with the pin of the chain, where the dimple lines up with the tooth. It's a small difference but still a few degrees.

Also keep in mind if you go past TDC on thr crank you can not turn it backwards, well you can but you have to backup way past zero (untill the cam moves) so when you go back towards zero all the slack is on the tensioner side. I did a video on this at some point that might be still floating around, from memory there is 15° of slack.

Personally none of this maybe relevant, your ECU is retarding the timing under load which means it's not seeing the "spike" from the knock sensor when it expects it.

 

I appreciate the note on slack. I understand. I came up to TDC in the correct direction of rotation so it shouldn't be a problem. We have a similar issue timing magnetos in aircraft engines. The gear backlash will put your timing about 3 defrees off if you don't do it right.

Ordered a new knock sensor. I will also be testing the new sensor against the old one both in and out of the truck.

 

Not my pic. but i think that plug goes to your temp. sender sensor to gauge.

 

Thank you. I did find it but failed to mention it. All the gauges on my dash work now.

 

Checked old knock sensor and new knock sensor both in and out of the truck. I'll post some scope images but they tested identically.

I drove the truck to work today. I'll be doing a compression test and verifying TDC.

 

Okay, so a long update is upon us.

Replaced the knock sensor even though the old one tested good. I checked them both in and out of the truck. Out of the truck, I tapped it with my pocket knife. The amplitude changed with how hard I tapped.

New sensor out of the truck:

Old sensor out of the truck:


New sensor in the truck running:


Old sensor in the truck running:


As you can see, there's no significant difference.

I took the truck to work and checked my TDC reference mark on the pulley by removing the spark plugs, putting an extension on the top of the piston, and turning the crank with a breaker bar back and forth to feel for TDC. It was about 25 degrees off!



So I re-marked the pulley and pulled the valve cover off. Come to find out, I didn't mis-time the camshaft when I put the engine together, it was just right. I moved the chain over a tooth where I originally had it and the PIN lined up with the reference arrow perfectly as @Co_94_PU called out.



Now that the timing mark was accurate and the cam timed correctly, it was time to check my ignition timing. I got the timing close with the timing light when the engine was cranking. Then before firing it up, I checked my compressions. All right around 150 psi. So then I installed the spark plugs and fired it up. After fine tuning my timing to 8 degrees BTDC with the diagnostics jumper in, it was off for a test drive.

The things runs! I was able to keep 65mph up small hills. No more stutter and slight surge when I take my foot off the pedal. So, lesson learned, if you are suffering from low power, check your timing marks.

Also, I installed new seat belts, new radiator cap, new gas cap, and ordered a VSV for my fuel pressure regulator.

The seat belts were a little long on the buckle side so I shortened them with some stitches.


Lastly, a couple of used AISIN hubs are on the way from Ebay. I thought my CV axle end was still sheered off but I was wrong, the CV axle got replaced at some point but I'm missing the inner hub and clutch for my left wheel. 4wd to be back online very soon.

 

Your balance/pully has slipped it's rubber and needs replaced, or worse your crank keyway is trashed or missing its key.

 

They keyway and key are fine. It could very well be that the pulley has slipped on the rubber. I wasn't aware there was any rubber in the pulley assembly. I'll look into that though.

 

Update!

I put my dash back together with some epoxy. It isn't beautiful but it is functional.

Replaced the ignition lock barrel. Mostly easy except I couldn't get the key to come back out. There is a pin in the bottom of the barrel then you push up to remove the barrel with the key in the "Off" but not "Lock" position. If the pin is not down in its hole, it won't turn to the "Lock" position. I pursued that for a while but that wasn't the bottom. My aftermarket barrel had a deeper hole in the end that engages the ignition switch. Because the hole was deeper, it wasn't pushing the switch in enough when trying to turn to the "Lock" position. I stuffed some paper in the hole to shallow it out and suddenly, I could turn the key to "Lock" and remove it.

Installed my FTM-400XDR radio. It's a VHF/UHF ham radio with a lot of features. It is actually too many features for my needs and will probably replace it at some point. With that install came a nice new hole in the center of my roof for the antenna. I love drilling holes in roofs. I drilled my 2020 Tacoma only weeks after I got it.





I ordered two used Aisin hubs off Ebay. One of my hubs was missing the inner gear and the clutch. The other hub has two bolts broken off that hold the cap on. After installing the hubs, I tested out the 4WD. It works! I haven't checked the fluid level in my diffs or transmission but that will happen soon.

I took the truck to get some firewood 3 miles up the road and the hubs were engaged but the transfer case was not. I got a nasty groaning at 15mph. The trusty "stick-your-head-out-the-window" method said it was coming from the right front wheel area. I got out and checked out the CV axle. It was flopping around in the front diff and the hub side had some knocking when trying to move it up and down.

Thursday I took the truck to work and removed the front diff and both CVs. The diff will be torn apart this week to see what I need to replace. I wasn't sure how the CVs were held straight in the hub but on removal I saw a bushing and needle bearing (I think.) The left side was shiny and new.


The right side was worn and it was all busing, no needle bearing.


So on the list now is a new busing assembly for the right if I can get one without acquiring a full hub. While taking the left CV out I also saw evidence that my brother could break an anvil if given the opportunity. The frame is cracked/broken at least 3/4 of the way around between the upper A-arm mounts. Time to get my welding helmet on.



Power steering is way up there on the list too.
And a new windshield
And different tires. I want to run skinnies. I have a set of allow rims I picked up for $50 but they are 9" wide. Not sure that will do me much good when trying to run a narrower tire than my 33x10.5 mud terrains. Anybody have a tire suggestion that won't break the bank? I like Generals.

 

Hows the dash look? Id like to repair mine as well, curious what you did.

How many cords you get?

 

Whew! This has been a very fast two months since you replied. Sorry for my tardiness.

It looks okay-ish. I just slapped some epoxy in the joint where the plastic broke, set it in place on the truck, and taped it in position. I'll dig up some photos.

I got a couple of limbs. My chain on my saw was stretched and the other chain was junk. I now have a new chain and no truck. The front diff is out of it and I need the 4WD to get anywhere in this pickup.

Sooo... that brings me to my differential. I took the front diff apart and much like the worn-out bushing in the spindle, I have a worn out bushing in the differential. The inner axle stub the CV axle bolts up to is supported in the differential by a brash bushing. That bushing is worn excessively. I need to source some parts but can't find them yet.

Anyone know where to get the bushing for the front diff axle stub and the bushing for the spindle? I'm unsure.

Until then, I'll be building up the gumption to weld my frame.

 

I need to clarify since I used poor terminology in my past post.

The bushing which is worn on the outer end of the CV is the spindle bushing.
Full kit: https://www.lceperformance.com/1986-...-p/1054128.htm
Inner bushing only: https://www.yotashop.com/spindle-bus...e-90381-30006/
Other thread talking about it: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...eplace-221504/

The other bushing I am looking for may not be a bushing at all. It is in the carrier. I haven't had time to really inspect the carrier to see if it is a bushing or simply the carrier itself. I suspect it is part of the carrier and is therefore toast. Way too much play there. Derrick at NAPA in Moab (I live there) is a long time Toyota guy and he has been searching high and low with me. He is also convinced it is just a bore in the carrier. Here's a photo. May be time for a new carrier?

 

So... the bore in the carrier does not have a bushing and there is no fix for it. I'm going to be looking for another carrier. That's a bummer. These specific carriers are a bit hard to find. Any of you experienced diff people have an idea if a different carrier would fit? Say, out of an 87? Here's one on ebay that is priced right.