man thats a bummer about the accident. good luck with gettin her all back together

 

glad to see you back at it, sorry about the set-back from the accident.

 

Great build!

 

Thanks.

Tinman I got most of my stuff from the local auto parts store (advance auto). I'm sure if you look hard you can find some stuff for cheaper. I picked up the blue sea fuse block on amazon.com. I used 14 gauge wire and heat shrink terminals for the outlets and a 6 slot fuse block for the power from the acc. to power the relays.

I used 4 gauge wire for all the power and negatives coming off the battery. I also used marine terminals instead of the typical terminals you get on a battery cable. I would pick up the starter cables that have ring ends on both ends of the cables or you can cut off the ends you have now and put ring terminals on. All you have to do is fill the terminal with solder and stick a bare end of the cable inside of the terminal. That is the best way of doing it if you cant crimp big wire like 4 gauge.

Here is a good link about relays and wire sizes it helped me out alot. http://www.therangerstation.com/tech...ry/relays.html

 

Got the aluminum and gauge finished up. Doesn't look to bad. Couldn't find the 2-1/6" hole saw so I used a 2-1/8".

Drivers seat view

Also started painting the frame. The road salt really took a toll on it last year.

 

I like the wiring job. Question? What lift do you have and do your front tires rub the fender wells when you turn and compress a side?

 

I'm not really sure what kind of lift it has. When my dad bought the truck years ago it was on it. I think it's a sky jacker. It does have a 2.5-3 body lift. The tires do not rub at all and with what little flex it has it does not rub. I will be putting on a 1" body lift here in the coming weeks. I'll let you know if it rubs then.

 

With the truck not running and the key in the on position, should the charge and brake light be lit up?

 

Mine stays on till I get the truck running. So I would say yes that is normal

 

Thanks.

I thought it was normal. Just wanted to double check.

 

I have had a plan for awhile to get rid of the 3" body lift that is on the truck. Well today I received my 1" body lift from 4crawler. Looks to be of good quality. I realize the 35"s will rub pretty bad when I put this on but I want to get rid of the gap between the tunnel and tranny/transfer case. It's killing me. So I ordered some 5.5" shackles. That should give me about 1" of lift and 1" out of the body. Not really sure if it was a good idea or not but I'll find out. Also finished the painting the other day.

 

I got the 2" from 4Crawler, good stuff. I like the added room to acces stuff and let me hoist the tank up 2". Not to mention a drivetrain lift when I get there.
Build's coming along, keep it up.

 

a little off the subject but about the Monstaliner . . . it looks like you painted over the sound deadener on the floor in the front. Was there any problem with the Monstaliner sticking to the mastic sound deadener pads? I have ordered tinted liner and am waiting for it now.
Thanks