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richf 1985 4runner build-up thread

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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 05:01 AM
  #121  
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From: Moyock,NC
Originally Posted by irab88
wow! that looks really good!

how's the noise level on the road?
To be honest I have only taken it down the road up to about 35mph. Right off the bat I was getting the exhaust gas sucked into the truck. I had the screen window on and the drivers side window down. That will be my next project for the truck. I didn't notice any excessive noise while driving but I'm sure it has to be louder than the stock top. I a little afraid to take it on the high way. It was so hard to snap some of the last buttons, that I think it might get ripped off by the 55-65mph winds while driving.
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 05:08 AM
  #122  
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so do you have more than one piece that goes where the screen is? (like a vinyl window or something)
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 06:08 AM
  #123  
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From: Bloodymore
Exhaust gases thru the rear window


Curious to see how you solve the exhaust issue with the softtop. On the hard top guys have had success with adding a spoiler like on the second gens.
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 06:53 AM
  #124  
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Originally Posted by RBX
Exhaust gases thru the rear window


Curious to see how you solve the exhaust issue with the softtop. On the hard top guys have had success with adding a spoiler like on the second gens.
make like a mini parachute that inflates as your speed increases... maybe...
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 07:17 AM
  #125  
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From: Moyock,NC
Ya I got the screen window and the clear vinyl window. I'm not really sure how I'm going to solve the exhaust issue. It's like the interior of the truck creates a vacuum while driving and the air behind the truck kind of curls up and gets stuck in a pocket by the tail gate and then the truck's vacuum sucks it in??? With the soft top there is no visor option as you know. I think they look horrible anyways.
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 07:25 AM
  #126  
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From: Bloodymore
I'm not crazy about the looks either, but my dogs like the fact that i can put the window down for them.
when i first got my truck i thought it was the bad exhaust leak from the cat back. But once i redid the exhaust from the manifold back i realized it was the vacuum created by drag off the back of the truck. I get slightly better results with the windows down, but you can still smell fumes.
I'm going to clean mine up this weekend to get ready for the install.

good luck
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 08:15 AM
  #127  
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rich- i think you'll just have to re-route your exhaust to somewhere you can't smell it anymore

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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 08:33 AM
  #128  
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That's the obvious answer but to were is the question?? Maybe putting the tail pipe before the tire. I don't really know. Good thing I have a welder to play with. I wish I had a wind tunnel.
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 09:00 AM
  #129  
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before the tire might work. yeah, you really need a wind tunnel to try this out...

if nothing else, it'll look cool!
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 09:20 AM
  #130  
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From: Bloodymore
I wonder if a Safari/Cargo Basket on top would disrupt enough air flow to defuse the low pressure pocket forming behind the rear?
If you move the pipe in front of the rear wheel, you may get more fumes in the cab when you are creeping.
Before you get crazy with the welder and moving the system, i would try a turn-down. I've also seen a swallow-tail designed turn-down on school buses, but i must admit, I am not sure what it is doing other then defusing the gases out of the pipe. And i can't find a picture to show you what i mean.
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 09:26 AM
  #131  
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i know what you mean, rb. makes sense, and might work better. as for the roof rack, it won't do too much. air is still coming from the sides and bottom (although not as much, it still would curl around) . what he really needs is 4 straight-pipes coming from the header, out the hood

looks like you have 2 options so far. point down like rb said or side-exit before the wheel. you could also make an exhaust stack!
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 09:29 AM
  #132  
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From: Bloodymore
The out of the hood idea will rob the 22re mill of needed back-pressure...but it would look cool!
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 09:47 AM
  #133  
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ok, just did a quick search. some other people had the same problem, and did a side exit before the rear tire. no fumes. hope that helps

and here are the tips you were talking about
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 03:12 PM
  #134  
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From: Moyock,NC
Just took the truck home 30 miles on the highway 55-65 mph with the screen on and the top did great. No new road noise, top wasn't flapping or shacking. I'd say so far it's a good buy.
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 04:48 PM
  #135  
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From: Bloodymore
good to hear
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 05:32 AM
  #136  
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Nice build! Glad to see more NC folk on YT...


PS: I'm from Spring Hope, NC (about 35 miles east of our Capital)

Last edited by trdwssrs; Mar 9, 2011 at 05:33 AM.
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Old Oct 24, 2011 | 05:03 PM
  #137  
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BACK FROM THE DEAD! The truck has had some ruff times in the last 7 or so months. Got in a accident on Hatteras Island. Ended up locking the rear wheels of truck and sliding 50' into the back of the car in front of me. Messed up the drivers side fender, jacked the hood up and now I have to chain it shut, busted the drivers side head light, drivers side running light. Anyways had a replacement fender on hand and bought a running light from a guy on here. Turns out the front rad support was pushed in, which didn't let the fender mount like it should and I jacked that one up opening the door.

Did some electrical work this weekend and finished up today. I wired in two new 12volt outlets and a oil gauge I had laying around. I have about 75psi on start up and 25psi after it warms up. 50-75psi depending on the rpm while driving. I'm running Brad Penn 20w50. Take a look and let me know if something doesn't look safe. I rode around with it today and it didn't skip a beat.

I used a dual post optima I had laying around and used the side post for the power and ground to the fuse block. Should I have put a fuse in the run of the power wire to the fuse block?


Mounted up the fuse block. Really didn't like the location but it was the only spot besides going inside the cab. Which I didn't want to do.

I soldered a 12 gauge wire into the acc wire on the ignition and ran it to a fuse block with 6 outlets. I thought this was a legit way of getting power to run the relays. Let me know if it's not. BTW this is mounted on the bottom of the bar under the dash and is accessible from the glove box.

12volt outlets mounted up. Didn't really like the style of outlets but they were cheap and available at the auto parts store.

Relays mounted up for the outlets. All the power comes from the fuse block under the hood.I used 14gauge wire for everything and grounded everything on the bar under the dash. sh.
Oil gauge mounted and wired in the coin pocket. I have a piece of aluminum cut and ready just need to get the right size hole saw.

Mounted my GPS to the dash.

I also installed a set of bilsteins on the rear a couple months ago. Helped out alot. Still have to install some extended brake lines.

Last edited by richf; Oct 24, 2011 at 05:10 PM.
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Old Oct 24, 2011 | 05:35 PM
  #138  
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loveing this, def subbed
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Old Oct 24, 2011 | 06:34 PM
  #139  
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Looks good Rich. The electrical work is on my list of to do. Could you put up a list of were you got your supplies. Later
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Old Oct 24, 2011 | 07:41 PM
  #140  
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Rich, great build.

Are you gonna fix the metal panels or order fiberglass replacements?
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