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The FailRated '85 Longbed Build Thread

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Old Jun 16, 2014 | 07:31 PM
  #121  
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Old Jun 16, 2014 | 08:00 PM
  #122  
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The only pic of the near end over end roll over on Squealer

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RBX and I tag teaming an exploded birf replacement with NASCAR speed.
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Old Jun 17, 2014 | 03:12 AM
  #123  
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From: Bloodymore
Always a good time. We probably could have had the birf changed out quicker if I remembered how to disassemble the FROR Taco Brake adapter...DOH! Next, some RCVs
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Old Jun 17, 2014 | 03:03 PM
  #124  
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I think we did OK for a couple of Wahoos who haven't a clue. The trail repair was one of my favorite parts of the weekend.
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Old Jun 17, 2014 | 07:27 PM
  #125  
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^^^ agreed, as much as I hated being 'that guy' it was über cool to do the field repair in so little time. Traffic didn't help the restart. Good times. Thanks man.
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Old Jun 17, 2014 | 07:48 PM
  #126  
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cool pics of the repair, its good to see people havin fun around here
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Old Jul 14, 2014 | 07:01 PM
  #127  
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Great pics man!

Bummer on the birf! Is that one of the guaranteed for life 27 splines?

Last edited by rattlewagon; Jul 14, 2014 at 07:04 PM.
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Old Jul 15, 2014 | 05:55 AM
  #128  
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It was my stock birf that broke not FailRated's new birfs.
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Old Jul 15, 2014 | 06:02 AM
  #129  
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Ahhh, I see that now.
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Old Jul 15, 2014 | 07:41 AM
  #130  
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Dig it man. Looks like a good trail.
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Old Sep 1, 2014 | 04:13 PM
  #131  
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As you can see my stock rear leaf packs sucked balls...

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...so I got some 58" 97-03 F150 rear springs
Front spring eye to center pin is 26"
Rear spring eye to center pin is 31.75"


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The front spring hanger had to be moved forward 5.5"

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I'm temporarily running a dual shackle setup until the new shackle hangers arrive this week. The F150 shackles fit nicely into the stock toyota shackles with new toyota bushings installed in them. The terrible shackle angle is probably causing me to lose an inch of ride height.

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A shot of the pack with 2" block. Once I get the shackles setup properly I should be able to step down to a one inch block or no block. You can see the one unpainted leaf I removed initially is reinstalled here.

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What it looked like with the third leaf removed with 2" block. A little low in my opinion so I put the leaf back in which raised the rear 1-1.5"

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Current ride height measurement for reference. With the dual shackles this measurement is 17" at full droop.

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Last edited by FailRated; Sep 1, 2014 at 04:24 PM.
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Old Sep 1, 2014 | 05:12 PM
  #132  
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So I've had a jingling/groaning sound during deceleration above 45 MPH for a while now. When I drove the truck sitting low in the rear for a day the sound was gone completely. After I threw the leaf back in and raised the rear up to where I like it, the sound came back. I'm assuming my drive shaft angle is to blame. I have the ujoints at opposite angels like you're supposed to if you're not using a double cardan. So my question is I have an extra front driveshaft with a double cardan and an extra rear driveshaft from a manual trans truck that's about 2" too long. Do you all think I can have a drive shaft shop put the double cardan from a front shaft on my extra rear shaft and fix this problem? Is that a good/bad idea?
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Old Sep 1, 2014 | 05:16 PM
  #133  
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From: Bloodymore
Pinion and transflange need to be same angle unless you have a cardan.
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Old Sep 1, 2014 | 05:30 PM
  #134  
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Originally Posted by RBX
Pinion and transflange need to be same angle unless you have a cardan.
Correct. They are.
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Old Sep 1, 2014 | 05:38 PM
  #135  
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Pinion angle
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Transmission angle
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Old Sep 1, 2014 | 05:52 PM
  #136  
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Blocks and double shackle? Any axle wrap?
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Old Sep 1, 2014 | 06:04 PM
  #137  
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Originally Posted by rattlewagon
Blocks and double shackle? Any axle wrap?
Lol none that I can tell. But I'd bet my 22re makes 80 HP and the double shackle will be gone next weekend
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Old Sep 2, 2014 | 09:55 AM
  #138  
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Originally Posted by FailRated
So my question is I have an extra front driveshaft with a double cardan and an extra rear driveshaft from a manual trans truck that's about 2" too long. Do you all think I can have a drive shaft shop put the double cardan from a front shaft on my extra rear shaft and fix this problem? Is that a good/bad idea?
That's what I did on mine, but if you use the double cardan joint you'll have to cut the spring perches off the axel and and rotate it up so the the pinion flange is pointing at the T-case flange.
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Old Sep 7, 2014 | 09:52 PM
  #139  
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Look for blocks with built in degree , or if your blocks are steel look for some steel degree shims and weld to the blocks to get your driveline angle correct.
Rusted is correct. To properly run a double cv your rear pinion should point @ transfercase flange.
Truck looks great & looks like it wheels too.
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Old Oct 4, 2014 | 07:54 PM
  #140  
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For as much as I love this truck, I can't help but notice the lack of fail.

More fail-bell, man.
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