Now that I''m starting to do things this week. My ultimate goal is 33" tires, on the lift i'm finishing this month, and then just restoring all the rust spots etc.


However...Has anybody atempted a low pressure turbo setup on a 22R engine. I've done some turbo work with ingected vehicles, not with carburated.

Anyways what I have is a garret GT25 .43 A/R trim with external wastegate. PLaned on picking up a BOV just because I don't trust wastegate tuning only on manual transmissions. Planning on a quick spool to say 4PSI MAX and then installing a tach on the truck and not bring the RPMs above 5000. However I have no idea where current redline is etc. Anybody with more experience in this engine so I don't blow this one up.

 

If your looking to go off road with this truck with the turbo making engine a lower compression may decline performance. Not saying that it wouldn't spin the tires big time!

 

I have 33's with no lift.. no rub

 

Well I did put the 33s on, needed some hamering but not to bad. Lift on its way.

Well the turbo would be a "low pressure setup", all things being relative. @ elevation this is a bigger help than most people realize. Basicaly set up to hit 4psi of boost or 18ish psi absolute manifold pressure at WOT. I hope that's sufficient info to clarify 4psi of boost. @ the elevation I'm @ a standard day = theoretical max of 25in of mercury absolute manifold pressure, with turbo running slightly below 4 psi I can easily get 38in of mercury for map. Also easily done @ low rpms with turbo in my shed. The tricky parts for me are; fuel, turbomanifold, overloading tranny or transfercase etc. I'm not going to get much for hp, main increase will be torque. I may be switcing to throttle body ingection anyways which will simplify things. But I still have lots of work figuring out oil piping etc. This summer engine is undergoing complete rebuild and I want to know what I'm thinking before I start so I can have everything planned out.

 

I've been toying with the same thought. I live at 7000 feet and wheel around 9000 or so a lot and was thinking of maybe 3 psi but have no idea what the stock fuel components are capable of. I also have only turboed cars with map sensors, not maf. I'll be following this one

 

i don't think you can turbo a carb?
you'd just be pushing more air and fuel into the engine at all times, with no regulation except the blowoff valve

 

he'd have a wastegate too. gas engines don't really boost at idle only when you build enough exhaust gases to build positive pressure on the cold side.

 

mmm, i'm interested in this too... Not saying i'll do it, just wondering how it works with a carb'd engine. i'd expect a carbueretor would handle it, but you might need at least special jetting, if not an electric fuel pump w/fpr. i know that carbs jet fuel in according to air flow, buthow do they work with different air density?

 

*Update* The turbo thing has been given a go. A friend of mine and I as well as my dad are making a summer project out of this. This guy who is going to help us is genius with engines. He even has a dyno in his garage. His knowledge will be a great help. Our current plan is to do TBI to keep it relatively simple, and we are shooting for 250HP after all the work. Complete top and bottom end rebuild. I'm even thinking making some custom pistons. Even though we are making this into a huge project including a tube frame for the rear half, and custom fabing a utility bed, 250HP will be fairly reliable and have decent longevity. That being said, nearly all of the 250 will be usefull. I'm so sick of hearing "rice" with 6 and 7 hundred horse. But in reality very little of that is useful. 1) there is no low end torque 2) that power encompass a very narrow portion of the power band. These two things mean that when they run a 1/4mi for example, they will have very slow accel for a good distance, then when they reach that power they just spin the wheels wasting all that power until it shifts up then bringing them back to a useless point in the power band. "tuners" are the guys you actually see on the track more than the road.

Anyways enough ricer slam. More about the setup. Defiantly going for a low-end torque quick spooling setup. Skeptics are going to tell me just to do an engine swap, but this is more expensive to me as I do have access to a machine shop. Other reasons include keeping weight down, maintaining somewhat respectable fuel econ, and more importantly that I wont have as much of a loss with elevation changes, just maybe a bit more lag. My biggest concern is going to be my tranny and transfer case. I know I'm going to need a new clutch for certain but that one is going to be left up to my friend. He has a couple of ideas in mind. Other considerations are going to be radiator, water pump, oil pump capacity, fuel pump capacity, extra gauges for keeping an eye on all the new stuff. I'm even considering designing my own digital instrumentation for kicks. Thats mostly just because I'm in electrical engineering and I can.

All that being said...the hardest thing for me to do is actually going to be the intake manifold, exhaust headers, and plumbing. But I will be posting more on this this summer, I just didn't want to leave anybody hanging on what the final outcome is going to be. I actually should start a build sheet soon with all the recent work done on it. Big thanks out to Nichols Auto Fab. He did a fantastic job with all the work, and like I said will be posting more on that in the build section. Including many of the recent issues I've been having.

 

Current build satus: If you arn't interested in future plans this is the section to read.

Well I got the extreme kit from all pro offroad and because I'm at school had it installed. First thing I must say, we ran into many many issues, but thanks to Kevin at Nichols auto fab, we got the truck running great, I have a few more things to do before driving home this summer.

The kit includes:
- long travel variable rate leafs that add 4" of height to the ride (more if you remember mine were so worn out they were reversed)
- Heavy duty mounts all the way around which add another half inch of lift
- Bilstein 5150 shocks
- Hy-steer crossover steering kit
- steering stabilizer
- bolts and mounts etc.
- other stuff I'm forgetting but check out allprooffroad.com
Everything you need to get tons of articulation out of a toyota pickup with solid front axle except for...longer forward and drive shaft, IFS steering box (you need a toyota independent front suspension steering box just because you have that much articulation) etc.
Note: This is NOT a bolt on kit, it requires a fair amount of welding/cutting to work as well as some skill in properly locating all the mounts

The install presented many problems. The first of which was discovering the right frame rail had several previous patch jobs, and very poor ones at that. Consequently the right frame rail is severly weakend and had many holes and places that were at risk. We plasma cut out an area of old patch, and welded within the frame box so to speak, a 3/8" thick patch. Also forward of this location (aprox near the rear axle front spring mount), he welded on top of the outside frame rail a fairly long piece of 3/8" material to reinforce the frame rail. As the inside was pretty much useless due to corrosion. We found these areas just from using pneumatic hamer and chisel for removing old mounts. I was really tight on money so there are still remnants of these mounts still on there. But functionally everything is good. The front fender walls had to be moved to make room for the new oversized shock hoops, and some other custom fab work had to be done for mounting the steering box. Bottom line...Kevin is one of those sheet metal masters and did a fantastic job. I will post pics later of some of the work.

The other thing we decided at this point, is that once I get home this summer I will be constructing a tube frame for the rear, roll bar, replace the fuel tank, etc. But more on that at a later time.

Eventually the project was completed minus a forward shaft that I hope to have completed soon, and Kevin took it for a test drive...Only to have it die on him. Murphey and his silly laws were ruining me. Turned out to be either the distributor, the ignitor or the ignition coil. We had to try several combinations to get it to work and now it has been running fantastic. I love the new setup.

The next issue I took care of was the large hole in the driver side floor. Again the previous owner used several rubber patches which just trapped moisture and created a bigger problem. For a temp repair, I used fiberglass to keep the rocks from hitting my face.

The next issue I addressed again caused by the previous owner, was the poor wiring job of the stereo. So I fixed that.

I attempted to remove the dash board but failed to actually get the top part off of the passenger side. I wanted to permanently mount my VHF ham radio vs gorilla tape, and wanted to see where I would be drilling etc. to determine what screws or bolts I would want to use. However all i succeeded in doing was cracking it. So I left it with duct tape for now and cleaned up my wire runs and made the wiring look a bit more professional. Later this month I plan to revamp all my wiring more permanatly as well as improving accesability.

My latest issue is my alternator, it's nearly dead and I have trouble driving with the lights on. Looking for recommendations here for one with more juice to it.

I also fixed my AM/FM antenna simply by attatching a straightend wire coat hanger.

For any other amateur radio operators (HAM or HAMs) I will be post a detailed how-to on my 2m radio and roof mounted NMO install shortly. I'm quite happy with the results, and it was ALOT easier than you would expect.

Right now I'm looking for info/links to tech writeups or how-to's for a square tube based forward shaft and alternator. With the square tube one, I have no doubts in fabricating it, but before I do, I'm wondering about wear as it travels in and out. I'm also wondering about balance, how precise do I need to be. Has anybody but brass inserts or "sleeve bearings" on one and how well did it work, was it even necessary etc? I'm also in desperate need for alternator info and any help would be greatly appretiated.
Thank you,

 

Photos will be uploaded to flikr.

Right now I got some "ok" photos up, but I dont have a "great" camera either. Eventually will have some better ones.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/5643836...n/photostream/

 

flicker and pic links suck...YT is a visual crowd, consider uploading to a free service like photobucket.com and than copy and paste the [IMG]yourcoolpic[/IMG] code into your pic

 

An update...will get pics onto photo bucket soon. Just got the steering knuckles rebuilt, replaced all the wheel bearings, the both front and rear axle seals etc.