When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Went with braided stainless hose from summit with AN6 connectors for the supply and a combo of stainless steel tubing (PITA to bend btw) and rubber hose for the return. You can see the hose up on the crossmember just forward of the tank.
Still trying to figure out my idle problem, took my truck to the dealership and after 3 hours of looking at it they said it was because the wires to the forward O2 sensor had laid up against the EGR pipe and were shorted.....Wrong answer, wires were laid up against the EGR pipe and some insulation was melted but they didn't even bother to tape them up and hook the O2 sensor back up to verify. From my research I've found that when the front O2 sensor is unhooked the engine reverts to Open Loop mode, only taking info from the MAF and ECT, completely disregarding the O2 sensors, how does the Toyota trained technician not know this? I repaired the wires, just had to throw some tape on them, weren't even melted through the insulation, plugged everything back in and still have the problem. OBDII reader shows the O2 sensor providing input to the computer, with no faults, just like before I took it in. Problem may be with O2 sensor inputs to the computer, leaning towards the computer having issues, but definitely not some charred wires, so went back the next day and got my money back. Dealer than gave me the "We probably shouldn't even be looking at your truck since it's so heavily modified" line, but if you want us to look it will be $105 an hour. No thanks, your troubleshooting skills aren't up to par, I'll do it myself.
I've been motivationally challenged lately so havn't messed with it. Drives great just the idle issue. Talked with a guy here at work that helped his buddy do the swap and he said that their idle was messed up until they had all the emissions stuff hooked up. I just have mine capped off at the moment, just need to run two lines from the canister up to the engine compartment, so that's my next step. If that doesn't work I'm going to take the motor off of the IAC, hook up a manual choke cable and adjust it that way. It's just a air valve that's adjusted by the electric motor which gets its input from the computer, along with a coil spring that opens up with the rising engine temp.
Sep 26, 2016 | 07:20 PM
No thanks, your troubleshooting skills aren't up to par, I'll do it myself. 
