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Hey 83Toyota, I looked through your build a bit. You're truck is looking great, makes me want to search out a camper. I originally planned to keep using the truck for motorcycle transport, but its so high off the ground now that its tricky to load motorcycles.
I'm also having the issue where the fresh leafs are putting the rear shackle pointing slightly inward. I was going to just load down the bed for while to try and settle them a bit but might have to move the mounts. I do gas weld for my work so I should be able to tackle it. Did you re-use your mounts or fabricate new ones?
I was hoping to be able to clean up this fuse box and be good. I'm going to give it another round of treatment but its its still no good i'll find something to swap in.
I was careful and cut mine off and reused them. Only surface rust on them, nothing penetrating. I'm really wanting to remove a leaf (top one). My truck is a really really rough ride. The suspension really doesn't flex at all.
If you ever get in west TN I would sell you a topper lol. Think yours is a short bed though.
I ordered some new rear shackle mounts and some slightly longer shackles. I didn't want any more lift but with the longer springs I figured they would be better for getting more range.
Still no luck in the seat department. Also, havent been on the highway for testing out the new fuel pump fully.
This Sunday I hope to get the new 5.23 geared third member installed in the front. I am also putting in new inner axle seals while I have those birfields apart...i'm a little nervous because I haven't taken those apart before.
DANG! Went for a drive today and on the highway (for about a mile before hitting traffic) I had no bucking/surging problem. Then on my way home on surface roads it started doing it at low speeds and would actually shut off when I cam to a stop.
Got it idling in a parking lot and it looks like fuel is flowing through the filter, there is some air in there (is that a bad thing?). Thinking about pulling the gas tank for a look inside to see its all gunked up, or maybe something in the lines? Starting to get more confused on the issue.
Okay, so on Saturday I pulled the gas tank and found it to be extremely clean on the inside, nothing in the filter and the sender in pretty good shape. So that wasn't going to be the solution to my fuel problem. I did find that one of the rubber sections for the vent line was clogged so I replaced a few rubber sections.
THEN I found that my fuel filter under the hood was assembled wrong! I had it hooked up in the right direction (IN one the correct side) but the internal of it were flipped around. Once I took that apart and got it back together the right way, I had a fuel PSI reading! So i dialed it to just under 3 PSI and went for a drive. Didn't get to cruise too fast but didn't have any issues. Hoping that solved it, feel stupid for not noticing it earlier but maybe it will help someone else having the same issue.
Hey guys, had a new issue today. Been driving around fine and then I stopped at the store and I get back to the truck, turn the key...and nothing.
Not even a click. Since it doesn't even click and the battery is good, I am thinking either ignition switch or starter relay. I am not sure how to figure out which one though so any help there would be appreciated.
You're first choices of ig.sw. or solenoid (acts as a relay) make sense to me. One other thing first... make sure that the cable from the battery pos pole to the post on the starter is clean and has good contact on both ends (remove/clean replace). If the solenoid itself is sticky, try having someone tap on it with the handle of a screwdriver when you turn the key to start position.
Also, check the other connection, which powers the solenoid when the key is in the start position. Also needs to be clean, and not loose (can crimp it if it is loose, and reconnect).
You can jump from the battery (pos) to that solenoid connector to bypass the starter switch. It's a good way to quickly test the solenoid and starter itself. Some mechanics have a wiring setup with an inline switch so they can connect to the battery + pole and to the spade connecter on the starter, and press the button as if they are turning to start position (with key in ignition on position). That way, if it starts, they can stop the starter from engaging the gear on the flywheel. It also makes a better position connection compared to "touching" the battery positive post.
Got the truck started today...not exactly sure what to replace to avoid further random issues though.
I first refreshed my battery terminals-no start, no click
Then I disconnected the + termnl on starter and the small wire, cleaned both- no start
tried jumping from the big + to where the small wire connected- no start
disconnected and cleaned the other large wire and ground at the fender wall and hit it with a hammer---BINGO
since I wasn't even getting a click throughout the process or any action by jumping the solenoid does that mean the starter itself is the weak link? I thought the solenoid would click if that was the case.
Got the truck started today...not exactly sure what to replace to avoid further random issues though.
I first refreshed my battery terminals-no start, no click
Then I disconnected the + termnl on starter and the small wire, cleaned both- no start
tried jumping from the big + to where the small wire connected- no start
disconnected and cleaned the other large wire and ground at the fender wall and hit it with a hammer---BINGO
since I wasn't even getting a click throughout the process or any action by jumping the solenoid does that mean the starter itself is the weak link? I thought the solenoid would click if that was the case.
It sounds like you diagnosed the problem and fixed it...bad ground to fender. It can get corroded. If you haven't already...use a wire brush to really get any oxidation removed, including the contact surface on the fender, the end connectors on the cable and whatever it connects to on the engine (I don't remember one on the starter housing). Even the washer/lock washer, bolts/nuts. It sounds like the current was blocked from reaching ground by oxidation at the fender, most likely. Current goes from the battery, through the starter motor, then to ground. Nothing happens if the ground connection is oxidized badly enough. It just takes a thin layer.
I connected a separate ground wire from my fender to the air conditioner mounting bracket, which bolts to the engine block. This provides an alternative path if the original grounding strap gets corroded like this. Just a little insurance. But really, bad grounds cause all sorts of issues in automotive circuitry
Last edited by 83pingpong; 11-20-2015 at 03:56 PM.
Hi Guys,
I am looking for a front bumper for my 81 4x4 and cannot find one...ideas/
Your's looks OK. Any OEM style replacement won't look much better. You want a chrome bumper instead?
It's not Toyota part, but there's one on ebay:
NOS 81 4x4 bumper for $250 (gasp).
I know there are other suppliers. Rock auto is out, but autoparts warehouse has them for the 2WD (like $50-$60, primed or chrome). I wonder if they are really that different? Probably. Autopartswarehouse does have the valence.
Last edited by 83pingpong; 11-30-2015 at 07:07 PM.
That is such a nice looking truck! I love the first gens, the lines are just so nice!
Once your battery cables start corroding it's best to replace them. Once the corrosion gets between the strands it just keeps coming back and might fail at the worst time.
Hey guys,
Been a while since I updated on here. I've been driving the truck plenty and still doing improvements to it. Most recently put in fresh engine mounts, trans mount and relocated me rear spring mounts to fix the shackle angle....which leads to my new question.
Before i moved the mount, they had negative angle and wouldn't allow the springs to flex. After moving them, my angle looks like this with the truck sitting on the ground and nothing in the bed. Feels better but the new springs still need to break-in.
Today was testing out loading up 2 motorcycles (around 300lb each) to see how they fit in the bed and i found that just the weight of them maxes out my shackles against the frame!
DAMN
So this means that there is no room left for the springs to....spring bu they still have plenty of room before they hit the bumper.
Does this mean I need to move the shackle mounts again? Or would a different shackle length help? Let me know what you think.
A longer shackle would give it more range to allow the spring to flex deeper, but of course it will also lift the truck more.
But even with longer shackles, it looks like you'll need to place the mount about 3-4" farther back. There's extreme stress on that shackle mount once it is flat like... it will probably sheer off the mount(s) if you hit a bump with those motorcycles loaded.
Hey 83, I agree that driving it with to bikes in the back right now would be a very bad idea.
The new mount position is 4" forward of the stock mount. I guess I just need to figure out if jumping from 5" to 6" shackles will help enough or if I should cutoff and move the mount again. I'd probably split the difference and go 2" back.
Oh and I am happy with the ride height front and rear right now, so its a bit of a bummer I that no matter what I do, the rear is going to be raised a bit but I thin the springs will still settle some.
Based on the looks of the shackles with that load, and position of those springs, the original mount location was probably close to perfect. Max one inch forward on the mounts this time, I'd guess. The springs will also settle in over time. They won't always ride that high. But they might push farther back over time, so original mount might have worked.
The bright side, your new mounts can be built stronger than the original, as long as you are at it!
Yeah, I think the longer shackles in the original spot + some break-in could have been okay. I wanted to use fresh shackles and 5" was the shortest I could find, I hadn't counted on the slightly longer length alone making so much of a difference.
10-23-2015, 10:38 AM
