the one on the side has a yellow with green wire on it

 

It 10 degrees this morning, I bet the paint room won't get warm enough to paint bumpers today. Maybe I can get the carpet in though.

 

I got the a/c to run long enough to get one can of 134 in it then it it quit again. My idle up controller doesn't work so I just hooked a vac line to it. The air coming out of the vent was 21 degrees, I think that's to cold to operate for very long, maybe this is why it quit. Before it quit with the key on engine off you could here the amp click when I turn the switches on and off. Now no clicking, bad amp? Which way do you turn the red temp control knob on the amp, I messed with it before I found out what it was, which direction raises temp? How many cans of 134 is required? My pressures were 18 suction and 165 high pressure. What is correct pressure, I usually make my tractors run around 30 psi suction and they seem to work well. On the bright side, we got started recovering the seat last night!

 

The knob on the AMP does not control temperature. The knob on the AMP controls the A/C Compressor Magnetic Clutch cut-off point (Factory specifications is 700-800 RPM). Looking at the knob directly, adjusting the knob Clockwise will increase the RPM setting at which the A/C Compressor Magnetic Clutch will disengage and adjusting the knob Counter-Clockwise will decrease the RPM setting at which the A/C Compressor Magnetic Clutch will disengage.

The Temperature Setting Resistor, located at the bottom of the AMP card, is for adjusting the resistance of the Thermistor (Temperature Detecting) Circuit relative to the A/C Compressor Magnetic Clutch Cut-Off / Cut-In resistance. If the Cut-Off / Cut-In resistance is too high turn the Temperature Setting Resistor adjusting screw Clockwise. If the Cut-Off / Cut-In resistance is too low or the Evaporator is frosted turn the Temperature Setting Resistor adjusting screw Counter-Clockwise.

 

Is there a number for the resistance, or do I just go by the evaporator freezing? I think this is the problem, it was cooling real good then all the sudden the high pressure started rising real fast, then the comp kicked out and wouldn't kick back in. And water was running out the drain pretty heavy.

 

What's with the pop up ads on every thread I look at now? This is new tonight.

 

There is a chart (on page 19-43 Section 2) in the factory service manual that shows the Cut-Off / Cut-In resistance range you need to achieve and the adjustment procedure you need to follow. You will also need a Variable Resistance Device / Tool to perform the adjustment procedure. Remember, all data in the factory service manual is based on R12 Refrigerant, if you use a different refrigerant adjustments, data or procedures might change.

 

Thanks suncomb, I'll try to find that fsm that somebody uploaded

 

My charge light and brake light doesn't go off, it never has since I bought the truck. I found a thread on here that explained everything real good, how to install a diode and check the charge relay. Does anyone know where it is? Been stuck in the house with type A flu last couple days so no work on the truck.

 

The charge relay on mine was under the dash on the passenger side. Small grey cube with a 4-wire harness going to it I believe.

 

What is the voltage output supposed to be? If it is too high the reg is out, right? Will high voltage turn on the warning lights?

 

I have never seen the charge light come on due too high voltage. Usually the diode circuit will fail first but you might want to check with Toyota on that one. I think the IC voltage regulator range is 9.5-13.8 volts or somewhere close to that. I am not sure if the FSM has that info but you should check it.

 

I love that bumper!
Great build!

 

Thanks for the info suncomb, and compliment robot moose. When hook my mini cluster back up ill check voltage, need to verify mini gauge with multimeter anyway. Got my new radio today! 7 days from b c Canada! Usually takes 2-3 weeks from California.

 

nice work on the bumper Randy .. really like it
and glad you got the radio


.

 

Thanks, it sitting in dads paint room all perty and black waiting for me to come get it. It was going to have a little bullnose bar but my pos harbor freight pipe bender just smashes pipe instead of bending. As soon as we finish recovering the seats, ill drive the toy over and install the bumpers and the hood, I'm almost finished with everything except chasing out the gremlins.

 

the bumper looks sick i thought about doing somethign simular but i havent had the time looks pretty beefy

 

Thanks duckmaster, I have it painted and installed now just haven't snapped a pic yet, been working on leather for the seats. The seats ave actually been the hardest part, my buddy has a leather sewing machine, but hasn't done upholstery, so that was a huge challenge but they are finished as of tonight! Hope to get them bolted down and get to test drive this weekend.

 

Got the amateur upholstery in, I like te look. I saw a post on here about putting carpet between the springs and pad, man that helped a lot. We also qulited the leather with gaming table pad left over from a poker table project, the improvements made it 100% better.