XD
lol

 

Lookin good!

once i figure out what year brackets, rotors and calipers will work for my front disc (vented) conversion... I think i'll do a write-up on it and the axle rebuild also.

 

I used 82 landcruiser rotors, and 87 calipers. Turns out my truck already had a 1 inch master cylinder installed into it, so I got lucky on that.

It all bolted on with no issues. Except that the stock wheel studs are a little bit short.

 

82 lc's had vented rotors? and by 87 calipers do you mean 87 p/u calipers, or does it really matter after 84?
for the mast cyl, i'll just browse on rockauto to find a year that mates up with what my local pnp has in stock.

 

just checked their inventory online, they dont have any landcruisers.

 

im guessing you got the brackets from an lc also?

 

The rotors were only $25 a piece from autozone, and the 87 calipers were $35 from autozone. It all bolted up perfect, the only landcruiser parts were the rotors.

 

ah, so you just went with all p/u parts. just from the second gen. i gotcha.
I've been eyeballing this '90 4runner at the junkyard... i think it wants to be a donor.

 

picked up those 4runner calipers and the mast cyl from an 86 p/u. the mast cyl is 15/16", but thats bigger than 11/16" last time i checked. went with new landcruiser ('82) rotors from oreillys as for they were cheaper than what the yard wanted for used rotors!
you were saying your wheel studs were a little short after using the LC rotors, but upon me cross checking parts it seems they both use the same studs.

 

I'm also running wheel spacers, so that's probably the difference.

Now I am looking for a booster, the brakes are fine, its just that I gotta mash on em to get some real performance.

I'm having trouble finding a bolt on dual diaphragm brake booster though.

 

My buddy and I decided to crash a car show this morning.


Well, he didnt really crash it, his truck could actually belong there.


got some disapproving looks for sure from all of the american muscle purists, but the rest of the people there got a kick out of it.

 

I like it! finished my brake upgrade today, they work well but I need to get a 1" mast cyl for sure.

 

How well did that lowes carpet mold in? And how much did it cost you? I've been looking at doing mine in black, my old carpet in the sr5 has seen its better days.

 

It went in pretty good, stays down good, and I didnt even glue it. It is outdoor patio carpeting, wound up costing me $30 for more than double of what i needed. Looks good, but I am wanting to do the fake grass, so who knows how long it will last.

 

More rust repair on the bed today, mostly cutting and un-spotwelding.

took the paint off of the bad stuff around the rails, made patch panels to go behind the rust, and I will be bondo-ing over the rust on the outside.



Then there was this mess, it gets worse the closer you get to the cab, but I am lacking pictures of it.



The center of the bed is pretty good, its just the sides that are terrible, so I decided to leave the center, and will only be replacing the sides.



Those cross-supports are getting new metal welded onto them, and have already been treated to the rust-converter and rustoleum.

lots more pictures tomorrow as I weld in the replacement panels.

 

I'm also sure this is common knowledge, but I discovered today that a pointed tip on an air chisel will smash out/cut out the spotweld from the top. I went from tearing up the bed supports trying to chisel inbetween the panels to leaving small holes where the weld used to be.

 

Hey craftsmanracer, why do your brakes suck harder than an Oreck?

oh, I dunno, why don't I go check my brakes over...

master cylinder is low on fluid, wonder where it went?



Oh, lol that's where the fluid went.

And this is where it spewed from


fixed that today, and did a little bit more work on the bed,

welded metal to the inside of the rails


so that I can stuff it up with bondo later (notice the grey primer shining through)

 

Was driving from Naples up to Ftmeyers, and then I felt a vibration in the drive train, thought it was loose lug nuts or a blown motor mount, checked those, and they were good.

So I drove on, about 2 miles down the road the vibration turns into the whole truck shaking like a paint can mixer. Then a huge BANG!

look out the rearview, because I want to pull over, and I see my driveshaft go flying down the road.

First thing I thought was "OH ˟˟˟˟ I'M GOING TO CAUSE AN ACCIDENT"

but luckily the truck behind me swerved out of the way, so there was no incident.

second thing I thought was "OH ˟˟˟˟ MY TRUCK IS BROKEN!"

I look under the truck, and the flange coming out of the t-case is completely gone, and half of the u joint is still connected to the rear axle, and it is totally knackered.

From my expert opinion, I surmise that the bolts came loose from the t-case flange, and as the driveshaft went crazy, it blew out the u joint on the rear axle.


So now the truck is sitting in a shop in Bonita springs, and the driveshaft is at a driveshaft shop.

It's like I've disrespected my beautiful truck, and now it is getting back at me by having other men fix her and fondling her undercarriage instead of me.

 

driveshaftparts.com has that flange yoke for $15 plus shipping. I just order one for my truck after I cranked the original one trying to press out the old u-joint. Let me know if you need the correct part number and I can help you out with it (there are two types of flange yokes that come on our trucks).

 

I'm just having a shop fix it, as I am far from my own garage.

They called me, and the shaft was bent, so they sent it out to a driveshaft shop.

The owner said the out the door price for a fixed or new shaft, new flange, and new u-joints, with a discounted labor charge is $517.

I've got a bad feeling in the pit of my wallet.

Oh, and I have an IFS rear end. Dunno if they are different or not.