I test fit it to find the sweet spot then Tape it in place

 

I decided I would Not use the Bushwacker method of using pop rivets. Instead I decided to use a couple of tubes of Liquid Nails and tape...

...No not really... lol....Instead I found these aluminum fender washer and and stainless bolt combo on ebay. They are ADD W1 version 2 10mm x1.0 a little pricey @ 20+ dollars for 12

 

With using these fender washers I found that I wanted them to go as low in the pocket as they could and not be sitting too much out of the pocket

In order to achieve this on some not all of the pockets had to have a little material removed with a dremel

I used the washer to start the hole then continued without it

 

A beefier Pop rivet may have been the way to go I don't know, but these Fancy fender washers are using a 10mm x 1.00 stainless bolt that allows me to remove the flare easily if needed.

I word of caution though to anyone using this method. Do not remove too much material. It does not take much time for that high speed dremel to eat through the fiberglass and if you do you'll find yourself doing a fiberglass repair.

The passenger flare was the first one I put on and at least half the pockets I had to dremel to get my particular fender washers where I wanted them . On the Driver side I only had to dremel 2 pockets.

And take your time drilling. I got a little too cocky and fast with the drill and put one hole a little off. Not enough for anyone to notice unless you look for it.

 

After each drilled hole I cleaned up and deburred the backside of the fender so That the stainless washers and nuts would lay flush

 

back of fender

 

 

Fairly tight at the rocker end

Not so much at the valence but I should be able to adjust the fender, valence and valence bracket to lessen the gap. The driver side came out tight

 

Now when I mocked up the driver side I had gaps in some noticeable places. I decided that since I did not know the history of the truck from all of the POs That I could not trust this fender being correct even though it looked fine

 

I had a spare fender in the attic and swapped them out. The flare on this fender fit Perfect with no gaps anywhere and I had to only modify two bolt pockets

 

 

 

Now Here is an odd thing about the Bushwacker factory flares for the rear. They require the gas door to be cut to match the Flare.

 

Holes drilled, Primed, waiting for paint...Oh and DOIT Q WWG1WGA MAGA

 

 

I found a company called Automotivetouchup.com and they have been awesome for someone like me making small repairs to bumpers and fenders. You put your year make and model in and or color code and they will put that factory paint into a rattle can. They also have a 2k clear coat. always wear a mask.
The primer is from them and the other is of course Home depot Rustoleum

 

I did not want to waste my time on cleaning and repairing the Old Factory hood . A New TO Taiwan hood being 140 shipped was worth it .

Old hood ribs separated and a PO thought card board and spray foam insulation was a good idea? lol

Too much work to clean this out.

 

New TO hood was painted a year or two ago

you're not supposed to be able to spray Urethane clear over Acrylic Enamel but it sat in the attic for a year drying and the Urethane clear went on just fine

I wet sanded the clear with the wrong grit and polished it out so I'll wet sand it again to get the scratches out of the clear. but not bad for a rattle can job. Two more additions went on this Summer. The Bug Shield by gt styling 781715 and the Grille Guard made for a JEEP.....The Smaller LED Light bar on top is a multi function White, Yellow Fog, and Yellow strobe, White strobe run with a wireless remote.

 

I wanted a grille guard that would allow me to keep the original bumper and valence with out cutting the fenders. And I did not want to pay 500 or more for it. You can find this particular one on Ebay all day long for between 140-200 I won this one for a 75 dollar Bid because it had a scratch and someone returned it.

I had to fabricate a Bracket for it and because my metal fab / welding skills suck, It cost me more for the bracket to be made than the bar. My design works but it still needs to be stiffened up. I have to disassemble this and take my bracket back to the welder to stiffen it up. When I do I'll post some more pics with some of the bracket design. It is basically an L shaped piece of steel just under 1/4 inch thick, with 4 gussets. It mounts using the left and right Tow Hook Holes.

 

I finally took the time to repair a door panel for the passenger side and paint it with vinyl paint

Wish I had took a before pic but this is what it looked like after several attempts with a 3M vinyl repair kit on a plastic panel. The repaired area is in the Brown From the edge to the Sun Light reflection almost center in the shot

I used a SEM Vinyl spray 15023 cordovan brown and a duplicolor vinyl spray black. The repaired area here is in the brown between the lock rod opening and the first seam in the brown and just before my shadow. Where is Waldo right? I guess it's ok but I can tell where it is. I'll probably Fab my own panels at some point.