I took the wood dash kit off my dash and scratched the heck out of the black plastic dash pannel so I need a used one.

The pic is not the best but (and I stole it from Cebby) but you get the idea. It is the black plastic piese that goes around the guages, heater vents and the light dimmer on the left of the wheel. Any second gen one should work. Needs to be in decent condition with no cracks, holes and all fasteners intact.

Any questions, just ask. I will pay you with a check or money order and I think about $20 plus S&H is fair for this.

Please hook me up.



Lamm

 

lamm,

i see these on ebay all the time. if you have some patience and use an auction sniping service, you can get these under $40 - $50 shipped.

the other alternative is to paint it. i love SEM's OEM paints. here is the one i recommend:

SEM Trim Black #39143
http://www.perfectfit.com/product.as...15979&l2=15342

Tips:

1) Clean off all dirt and oil off the original dash piece w/ any kind of grease cutting fluid (such as simple green and then dishwashing liquid)

2) Dry

3) wetsand with 220 grit or higher (+400) to help sand down imperfections and promote adhesion

4) coat with two coats of plastic paint adhesion spray. SEM sells one too

5) spray with the trim black that i mentioned above

Bob

 

x2 on the SEM Trim Black. You will get great results. IMO, you'll want to do the rest of the black stuff on the dash with SEM trim black also since the sheen is slightly different than the factory black pebble finish (I think the part nearest the radio/HVAC - you'll need to tape it off...)

If you MUST have an original, I've got one I would sell I think.

 

I'd go higher (400+) so you don't take too much pebble finish off.

 

2nd gen dash has a pepple finish? the 3rd gen is baby butt smooth, thus the 220 recommendation.

lamm, if it has a pebble finish, then heed ceeb's advice.

bob

 

Wow, my own write-up from Bob!

Thanks for the good replys guys. I will have to check ebay for a week or so and see if anyone else chimes in with one for sale.

I kind of wanted another one so I could use my old one to experiment with eliminating one of the center HVAC vents and replacing it with 3 ARB air locker/compressor switches as well. That way if I goofed I would still have the new one to do it right with.

If nothing turns up though I will hit you up Cebby or maybe just paint it like Bob outlined.

Thanks!
Lamm

 

You can add more switches near the factory switch hole. I plan to have 6 or 7 down there I think...

 

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f180/parting-1992-sr5-4runner-4x4-91714/

 

Hell, I'll take that unlisted piece for $10...

 

Huh? What factory location? Behind the shifters or to the left of the wheel? Any pics or a writeup?

Thanks!

 

^ i'm wondering the same thing...

 

C'mon now... You guys making me go dig that stuff out and post up pics?

No writeup yet, but you can add switches to the left of the wheel. I plan to get the mounting plates like those from www.waytekwire.com (the Contura switch mounts), you can run a gang of switches down there. I plan to sink my mounting plates in there flush and fiberglass it. Other plans include an iPaq in place of one of the air vents in the center (I have the bluetooth Nav setup for it).

This is all the further I got on mine a while back - (stock pieces posted for reference)

Stock


Modified


Stock


Modified


Some clearancing will be needed behind the dash, but nothing crazy. This mod gets you 2 sets of 3 switches. The divider between the two banks needs to remain since there is some cluster structure behind that part.

 

OK, I see. West Marine also sells those mounting blocks. Have you test fitted this at all? From what I could see there is not enough depth to mount switches where you have the hole on the right.

I set of 3 would be perfect mor my ARBs though.

Lamm

 

If memory serves, there wasn't anything in there that could not be removed. I think it was just some plastic.

 

Sweet, something else to do.

Lamm