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Wheels That FIT Thread - Post your wheel specs here

Old 08-18-2014, 10:17 AM
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Wheels That FIT Thread - Post your wheel specs here

Seems as though a lot of members on here are posting threads asking "will these wheels fit my truck?" So I'm creating this sticky thread so that members can post their wheel setups that ACTUALLY FIT.

Here are the rules
  1. This is thread is for members to post the specs of their wheels, not a place to ask fitment questions.
  2. We are looking for EXPERIENCE here, not "I heard that these will fit" or "a buddy of mind said that these will fit." If you haven't done it, then do not post about it.
  3. This is to be used as a guide - YotaTech and its members are not held responsible if you take the advice provided on this thread and the wheels you bought don't fit properly.
  4. Provide your information in an orderly fashion and be as complete as possible. This is the preferred format:
  • Vehicle: (Year, Make, Model, Trim, Etc)
  • Brand/Style: (Brand & style of wheel)
  • Material: (Aluminum, steel, etc)
  • Size:
  • Lug Pattern:
  • Offset:
  • Backspacing:
  • Center Bore:
  • Spacers:
  • Tires:
  • Clearance Issues: (Note any clearance issues with wheels/tires rubbing here)
  • Technical Notes: (Note any modifications, adjustments or upgrades needed or preformed here. IE - disc brake conversions, fender trimming, lift, etc)
  • Pictures:
Irrelevant posts that do not conform to the above rules will be deleted. The idea here is to create a source of "wheels that work" for members to be able to search through to find answers to their questions instead of asking the same questions over and over again. Although tire information can and should be added to each post, this thread is focused more towards the actual fitment of wheels.



So lets see those wheels!!! Thanks folks!!!

Last edited by kawazx636; 08-21-2014 at 05:43 AM.
Old 08-18-2014, 10:29 AM
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I'll get this party started! Here's what I have:

  • Vehicle: 1983 Toyota Pickup 4WD
  • Brand/Style: Ion Style 171 (#171-5883P)
  • Material: Polished Aluminum
  • Size: 15"x8"
  • Lug Pattern: 6x5.5" (139.7mm)
  • Offset: -27mm
  • Backspacing: 3.43"
  • Center Bore: 108mm
  • Spacers: NONE
  • Tires: Falken Wildpeak 31"x10.5" R15
  • Clearance Issues: NONE
  • Technical Notes: GM rear disc brake conversion, 2" OME lift, SORD HD tie rod
  • Pictures:
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Last edited by kawazx636; 10-15-2015 at 07:15 PM. Reason: Updated photos
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Old 09-03-2015, 02:42 AM
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  • Vehicle: 1995 Toyota 4Runner 4WD
  • Brand/Style: Toyota TRD Pro (PTR20-35110-GR)
  • Material: Aluminum, Matte Grey Finish
  • Size: 17"x7"
  • Lug Pattern: 6x5.5" (139.7mm)
  • Offset: 4mm
  • Backspacing: need to measure still
  • Center Bore: 108mm
  • Spacers: NONE
  • Tires: 285/70/17 (32.7x11.2)
  • Clearance Issues: NONE
  • Technical Notes: 4"Superlift soon to be replaced with 2" OME
  • Pictures:
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Old 10-15-2015, 01:24 PM
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Vehicle: 1993 Toyota Pickup 4WD SR5 Ext Cab
Brand/Style: Unsure, came with truck
Material: Aluminum
Size: 15"x7"
Lug Pattern: 6x5.5" (139.7mm)
Offset:
Backspacing: need to measure still
Center Bore: 108mm
Spacers: Trail Gear that came with lift
Tires: 35x12.5x15
Clearance Issues: Tire rub on lower valance when suspension is compressed
Technical Notes: 4in Trail Gear SAS front and rear with HD springs up front. E-locker, and lockright
Pictures:
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Previous tires installed here are 31x10.5x15
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Mostly compressed suspension
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After the trail tried to swallow my Yota

Last edited by mick.j.becker; 10-15-2015 at 01:25 PM.
Old 10-15-2015, 07:27 PM
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Mick, Good looking truck! Your rub issue is likely caused by the axle location when it was SAS'ed. Looks like the hangers were mounted 1.5-2" too far forward. Another possible fix would be dependent on the springs. Not all springs have the pins centered in the leaf pack. If the distance between the front bushing eye and the center is shorter than the distance from the rear bushing eye and the center pin then you may be able to flip the springs around to center the axle better in the wheel well. Could be worth looking into it if you are concerned about it at all
Old 10-16-2015, 02:35 AM
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Originally Posted by kawazx636
Mick, Good looking truck! Your rub issue is likely caused by the axle location when it was SAS'ed. Looks like the hangers were mounted 1.5-2" too far forward. Another possible fix would be dependent on the springs. Not all springs have the pins centered in the leaf pack. If the distance between the front bushing eye and the center is shorter than the distance from the rear bushing eye and the center pin then you may be able to flip the springs around to center the axle better in the wheel well. Could be worth looking into it if you are concerned about it at all
Kawazx636, I just wanted to say I loved your build thread from your resto you did. I would love to be able to do that kind of work. This sas was my first major modification so I was really green. I did tons of research on it, watching videos,asking questions on forums and I had trailgear on speed dial. Because I was so new, I followed all directions I could get my hands on as well as any tips from others who had done the swap. I mounted the front hanger 1.5 in forward because I got the HD springs. The trailgear tech actually said to put it 2 inches. I am glad I didn't because I'm not happy with the shackle angle I have at 1.5 inches. At first I was happy with the setup but now I am contemplating cutting it off and starting over with same lift just different measurements. I plan to move the front hanger back and remove the extra leaf from the front. (Depends if i ever get the 1uzfe in the engine bay) Also moving the rear shakes forward a little for the better angle. As for the location of the front axle, I'm OK with it but would be OK if it sat further back. When I installed the springs, they were marked with front and back so that's how they were installed.
Old 10-16-2015, 07:13 AM
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Originally Posted by mick.j.becker
Kawazx636, I just wanted to say I loved your build thread from your resto you did. I would love to be able to do that kind of work. This sas was my first major modification so I was really green. I did tons of research on it, watching videos,asking questions on forums and I had trailgear on speed dial. Because I was so new, I followed all directions I could get my hands on as well as any tips from others who had done the swap. I mounted the front hanger 1.5 in forward because I got the HD springs. The trailgear tech actually said to put it 2 inches. I am glad I didn't because I'm not happy with the shackle angle I have at 1.5 inches. At first I was happy with the setup but now I am contemplating cutting it off and starting over with same lift just different measurements. I plan to move the front hanger back and remove the extra leaf from the front. (Depends if i ever get the 1uzfe in the engine bay) Also moving the rear shakes forward a little for the better angle. As for the location of the front axle, I'm OK with it but would be OK if it sat further back. When I installed the springs, they were marked with front and back so that's how they were installed.
Thanks! It was a long tedious project, but I enjoyed it. I've got the itch to start a new project, but I'm not sure what exactly I want to do next. I was thinking about doing a FJ40 or FJ45, but I have also contemplated doing something domestic like a 1966-77 Ford Bronco or a '32 Ford pickup street rod. We'll see...

Suspensions can be tough. It can be hard to tell exactly where everything is going to sit once all the weight is applied and the springs settle. Typically, you just want to tack weld everything into place and assemble to see how it will sit. I usually don't trust other people's measurements because you can never really be sure that you are measuring from the same reference point. But hey, you got as far as you did so you should be able to make the adjustments that you need to make. I think your shackle angle looks good - I would likely move the front and rear hangers together the same distance to maintain that same shackle angle. I still need to get around to adjusting my shackle angle - my rear shackle hanger needs to come forward about an inch to achieve an appropriate shackle angle, but I haven't had much time to get to doing it yet.
Old 10-16-2015, 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by kawazx636
Thanks! It was a long tedious project, but I enjoyed it. I've got the itch to start a new project, but I'm not sure what exactly I want to do next. I was thinking about doing a FJ40 or FJ45, but I have also contemplated doing something domestic like a 1966-77 Ford Bronco or a '32 Ford pickup street rod. We'll see...

Suspensions can be tough. It can be hard to tell exactly where everything is going to sit once all the weight is applied and the springs settle. Typically, you just want to tack weld everything into place and assemble to see how it will sit. I usually don't trust other people's measurements because you can never really be sure that you are measuring from the same reference point. But hey, you got as far as you did so you should be able to make the adjustments that you need to make. I think your shackle angle looks good - I would likely move the front and rear hangers together the same distance to maintain that same shackle angle. I still need to get around to adjusting my shackle angle - my rear shackle hanger needs to come forward about an inch to achieve an appropriate shackle angle, but I haven't had much time to get to doing it yet.
I understand about the bug I just cant make up my mind on which projects to start first. I have an OM617 sitting in the garage I had planned to swap and there is always something more I can do to my truck. Not to mention plans for the wife's car.
I have an uncle that caught the FJ40 bug real bad. He has done 5 of 6 of them. I am pretty sure Mike Warn of Warn winches bought one from him. . I can ask him if its that important. My uncle was putting 18k to 25k into each one and selling them in the high 40k and low 50k range. It got to the point that people would contact him and have him build one for them with their ideas like color, wheels, tires ect. Here is a picture of the last one he just completed.
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Work done by Pete B.

Last edited by mick.j.becker; 10-16-2015 at 07:29 AM.
Old 07-15-2016, 07:05 AM
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My 1992 4WD extra-cab 22RE with 305K - never been apart, no leaks, "Mr. Reliable". . .best vehicle I ever owned!


This might help someone looking to swap out wheels: I wanted to have an extra set of wheels but couldn't find definitive info about swapping late model OEM wheels. Here's how it worked out.

I acquired a set of OEM Toyota wheels from a 2015 Tacoma. They bolt up perfectly. My 1992 4WD extra cab came with 225-75-15's and these late model wheels are 16's wearing 245-75's. Plenty of clearance left. Naturally the truck sits slightly higher and the speedo shows a bit slower. Even though the truck is powered by the 22RE I don't notice much in the way of slower acceleration with the higher ratio. It will undoubtedly show up in the mountains though. Here are photos before and after. Notice that the center caps worked well on the rears. I had thought I'd have to use the original black centers.



About to swap out the original 15 inch wheels wearing 235-75's




With the late model 16 inch wheels wearing 245-75's - slight height increase, about 1.5 inches




center caps fit nicely - they snap tight when the wheel is mounted, but not if the wheel is off, unlike the original black centers which will stay on the wheel when it's removed




note: manual hubs




I was concerned that the width of the different wheels would hang outside the fender but it worked out nicely.


Old 11-13-2016, 06:44 PM
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Hope some one can answer?

I have a 92 Toyota pick up. 4 wheel drive, manual. I bought it with over sized rims and tires. I would like to go back to original rims and tire size. Can anyone help me figure out what that size might be?
Old 11-13-2016, 08:52 PM
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Ladyhawk1224: While I profess no authority on the subject,I can tell you what came on my truck. It is as the manual describes - 225/75/15.
In the photos I posted you can see the Yokohama Geolandars I always purchased. The ones in my photos were actually 235's (not 225's) mounted on the original six-slotted 15-inch steel wheels.
I kept these in case I ever want to go back to the original equipment as you are looking to do. Frankly though, I'm happy to advise
that I experienced no loss of power due to the resultant taller gearing and only very little error in the speedo. Not enough to bother with recalibration in my opinion.

I also have experienced the slightest increase in fuel mileage - about 24 mpg - since going to the taller wheels. It's flat in the Portsmouth area.
But if my travels were mostly in mountains or hilly country, that would likely not be the case.

There are still a good number of these original 15-inch wheels around so you shouldn't have great difficulty locating a set. Heck, someone on this site may have some lying about.

GOOD LUCK TO YOU! Namaste!
Old 11-11-2019, 09:24 AM
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  • Vehicle: 1983 Toyota Pickup 4WD
  • Brand/Style: Wheel Vintiques Series 62 (PN: 62-5606334)
  • Material: Steel
  • Size: 15"x6"
  • Lug Pattern: 6 x 5.5" (139.7mm)
  • Offset: +6mm
  • Backspacing: 3.75"
  • Center Bore: 107.95mm
  • Spacers: NONE
  • Tires: BFGoodrich Mud Terrain KM3s 33"x10.5"x15"
  • Clearance Issues: Grind front brake calipers
  • Technical Notes: Test-fit and balance wheels before powdercoating
  • Pictures:














Notes: I will spare you the drama on these particular wheels, but long-story-short, I was trying to mount OEM original Toyota steel wheels for solid front axle suspension. I accidentally purchased IFS wheels before realizing that the SFA wheels are NLA and IFS wheels won't work. I went with these Wheel Vintiques as a close substitute because I had already purchased 15" tires. I have purchased several sets of Wheel Vintiques wheels and they have all worked fine in the past. For these particular wheels one of the four was way out of balance. You can see all the extra weights in the pics of the driver's side rear. So before you paint or powdercoat them, spin them on a balance machine to make sure you don't need to send them back to Summit or Jegs.

Also, they require some minor clearancing of the brakes to work. The "slots" in the 62 series wheels rub the caliper. I imagine the Smoothie series would fit without issue.

The bottom-line is, these are a good value for the money, but you need to test fit them and spin-balance them before final mount. Also, some national chain tire shops (Discount Tire) will not mount a 10.5" wide tire on a 6" wide wheel.

Last edited by bigwill837; 11-11-2019 at 09:25 AM.
Old 11-16-2019, 09:18 AM
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Do you mind if I ask how much you paid? Love the looks of these!
Old 06-25-2020, 01:00 PM
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Fitment questions.

Who can tell me where can I post questions about what wheels will fit my 91 5 lug truck? I had one with mustang wheels once, and I have questions about what wheels will fit...
Thx~T.
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