Ok so I am new to the toyota world but not new to 5.0's...have had a couple of them, one of them being a TT 87 GT mustang that I did a budget rebuild on with good success.
So...I just bought an '87 4runner, problem is the block has a rod sticking out of it. Trying to get a replacement 22re that I can freshen up has been rather frustrating....I can get them but not for anything under $600...and it still needs rings/bearings/gaskets at a minimum.
Now I am leaning towards a V8 swap....I have been searching on here for 302 swap info and found some good threads, but not all the answers I need.
Please be gentle if I have overlooked the answers but here is what I need to know:
My 4runner is a 5speed, so can I get by with just getting the swap stuff from northwest (bellhousing, slave, disc, etc) and reuse my factory trans, transfer case, driveshafts etc?
Do I have to have a body lift or can I get by with the modified pan to clear my IFS and possibly crank my torsion bars?
I am not worried about a/c or emissions so will the fox or LSC accessories work or do I need the sn95 ones?
Can I put a 255lph intank pump in with the factory fuel lines or should I run a new pressure line and use the factory pressure one as a return...if that can be done?
I would like to use factory gauges so as long as I get the pcm/harness and give it power, the oil/water/etc should work with adapters correct?

Sorry for any ignorance, thanks again for an awesome site.

FWIW I plan on using this truck for a DD/hunting truck mainly but am sure I will want to get some mud on it, definitely not any rock crawling stuff though....the driveline should handle some mild abuse for now right?

-Jarrod

 

Okay lets see. Your driveline will hold up as long as you don,t warp on it too much. The front ifs is the weak link. I have had my 5.0 in for about 4 years and haven,t even snapped a u joint and I abuse mine, but each vehicle is different.When you do the swap by a good pressure plate meant for your year 5.0. The NWOR kit has a good clutch disc. I also bought the motor mounts. As far as fuel it depends on how stock your motor is. Believe it or not I am running the Toyota 4 cyl. pump in mine and it seems to work fine. Now gauges are a different story. The oil pressure should work ok and the battery voltage also. I found that the stock temp gauge didn't read properly at all. I assume it has something to do with the different levels of resistance built into the sensors and gauge. As far as oil pan clearance and such I had a suspension lift in the truck and I had to do a body lift to be able to clear the bellhousing. I had a 4" ifs lift and a 3" body lift. I kept breaking cv's so I swapped to a solid axle.As a far as driveshafts if you leave the trans in the stock location you wont need to modify them.If I can give any more help let me know.

 

Get an adapter for your stock temp gauge sender to work in the ford block.

go to www.advanceadapters.com for parts

 

As a note I was able to hook up the gauge but my issue was it didnt read correctly. At about 180 degrees it was burying the toyota temp gauge.

 

Thanks for your help, that's the info I was looking for.
Ok so factory flywheel for the 5.0, my choice in 5.0 pressure plates but of course have to use the NWOR disc so the yota trans input shaft fits...or do I have to use a conversion specific pressure plate too?
Have any pics?

 

did you use the ford or toyota SENDER? you have to reuse the toyota.

 

Yes you use the flywheel meant for your motor. As far as pressure plate just get one meant for the motor you are using.I used a center force pressure plate and it works awesome.

 

I am using a centerforce PP and clutch and it grabs quite nicely

 

Hey there,

I am just completing a 5.0 efi swap on my 84 sr5 pickup. Here is a few things I've learned so far

1 use the mustang flywheel but realize that it is smaller then the truck flywheel normally used in the kit. You will have to modify the starter flange my drilling a new hole and moving the starter inboard and in my case grind a little off the nose of the starter to clear the flywheel teeth at the revised angle.

2 headers - I tried to use the stock ford mustang headers and ended up just cutting them all apart and making new ones with the pieces and some new j bends, if your headers are still rust free and solid this works good but allow some time to fab the new headers (it took me 20 + hours)

3 the slave cylinder will be very close to the exhaust on the drivers side especially the line which faces straight forward. I made up a tight 90 fitting by welding two brake line fittings together and also added a tin heat shield to deflect the heat.

4 the emergency brake cable needs to be moved or changed. I went to the wreckers and got one out of a newer model and made it fit. It has the cable running inside the floor pan. even then I had to reshape the floor pan to provide clearance for the drivers side cylinder head.

5 I`ve been told that a stock v6 rad will do the job but I ended up using a sprint car rad from speedway motors as I plan to tow my bike trailer a lot with this truck. I used two pusher fans designed for corolla air conditioned cars. They are an add on to the corolla when the dealer installs air. I used two and mounted them side by side between the grill and rad. Currently I have less then quarter inch of clearance between the rad and water pump pully bolts. I plan to make up some flush mount bolts to help with this but if I was to do it again I would try to find a later model mustang motor with the shorter waterpump and pully setup or convert the engine to this settup.

I actually reused the toyota power steering pump by making a plate and mounting it to the Ford bracket and machining the Ford pully to fit. I think I would just use the Ford pump next time....this was a lot of work and hard to get lined up.

If you plan to use the stock alternator bracket plan to use a rad with the top hose on the drivers side. This might mean using a 4cyinder turbo rad as I am not sure of the configuration of the v6 rad hoses.

If you need more just PM me or see my website

funfactorfab.ca




Kevin

 

Ok back from the dead.

I can get a good deal on a '96 explorer 5.0L...so good heads and intake and shorter accessories. Question is can I just throw in a mustang/lsc distributor to get rid of the explorer coil packs and use a mustang harness and ecu? I guess the explorer harness and ecu are more complicated as it is OBDII so I should stay away from it right?

 

Waite so you can use any other 5.0 clutch it don't have to be a nwor clutch??

 

Back up from the dead again.

Ok guys, I sold my camaro, paid off all my debt and..... perfect timing....my DD 22re is hurting. So I need to do something now.
I really want to do a 5.0 swap, and keep the IFS, I have a 3" body lift I need to put on btw.
The 4runner will be 90% street driven with some occasional offroading, mainly for hunting/fishing and I would eventually like to be able to pull a small boat or jet ski's.
With all that being said, I found a 93 5.0 out of a mustang, complete...I can also buy the aod. Most v8 swap people say steer away from the W56 manual, but the aod has it's problems too.

w/aod:
-AA# 50-4402, have to find out about the aode needing additional $26 kit, $600
-Trans cooler, that's easy
-Shifter, maybe find a junkyard piece
-I would reuse the factory converter

w/W56:
-$$$$ NWOR bellhousing kit $$$$$
-Flywheel, pp, disk
-Prayers that the trans holds

I'll need the NWOR pan/pick-up either way unless I try to modify the stock stuff myself.

So, what say you? Anyone stuck with the same delimma and made a decision? I've done searching and found some great info but looking for some recent swappers to shed some light on how their rig is doing now.

 

PLEASE HELP!!!

I can't seem to get NWOR to answer their phone. I have decided to keep it 5speed.
I know AA makes the bellhousing but NWOR is the only one who can sell it...but how about the other parts, has anyone found sources for them outside of NWOR? Is the slave just a standard slave with an extension rod? Throwout fork from some other vehicle? HELP!!

 

Might have to be a bit gentle with the W56, I think an "R" series box would hold up to the HP a lot better.

I went with the 5.0 using engine driven fan from a Rover (bolt on) & AOD with D300 in my Gen3.