I had those. Dont get them. They are a poor decision. I got these http://www.holley.com/8501HKR.asp, but havent installed them yet (waiting on new GM bolts and gaskets)

 

Those look pretty good, if you were to have them machined, what part would need modified? How do the flanges/ collectors fit space wise around the frame and transmission bell housing?

 

Thanks for the great info by the way, it really makes it easier trying to research all the parts to make this swap easier.

 

You could put a bit of an angle on the head side which would tuck them in slightly closer. I have some photos I'll post here in a bit. New manifolds clear nice, need to make a tight bend to clear suspension. I bought some mandrel bent jtubes off amazon.

On a side note, always check amazon with a part number. Their search isnt worth a ˟˟˟˟ for car parts, but everything for this has been about half of what the cheapest vendors and dealers are for OEM parts, and free 2 day shipping.

I lied. I took photos of the wrong side. Will get some more up the next time I'm out.

 

Gotta say, ...... I feel like a kid at Christmas, everytime I see that you commented on the thread... I'm thinking one day I'm just going to log on, check this thread, & pow, a video drive by layin rubber for half a block! Lol.

Hope you're doing well man... Are you happy about selling the Porsche, or was it a sacrifice? I have a neighbor up here with some super duper Pooch.... G5 or something(?). Let's just put it this way... From what he tells me it's the fastest Porsche ever made... What do you think he drives, 90 percent of the time? -> A mint condition, limited edition, 2000 4Runner with a 3 inch lift on 33's... Hahaha. There's another guy up here with a Groupe B(?)..... It's one of those crazy slantnose Porsche's with a huge will tell and width job on it that I used to see race in the IROC series at Long Beach GP.

Okay, sorry, I'm getting distracted here... Just excited to see some pictures or something. Have you seen that guy that's doing that 347 stroker in the Toyota? Crazy! I think he's looking at almost 400 horsepower.

 

Hey! It was a sacrifice and a practicality sort of thing. The reality is it was one of the best handling cars under 200k. Then I test drove a 2014. I didn't know driving could be like that. So I'll wait a couple of years and snag a 14. I'm also trying to purchase a house and rental property, so wanted to get rid of certain debts and I had a lot of equity in the car.

For now the 4runner will do, and I plan on getting a C2 convertible soon and swapping in an ls3 (SC or turbocharged) or LFA motor.

400hp you say? Childs play... I have the L33 :p After she gets running shell be getting a tune, cam, and some other goodies. 400WHP is pretty easy to get out of these.

Oh, I have pictures! I decided to recut the wiring harness, and stuff is on its way to bill hillock to get reprogrammed and some other parts made. I just wasn't happy with the lengths on the harness, bill left it for the stock truck motor which was fine but I'm a wire routing nut and it looked like I just shoved it all in there, which I did. Plus it's good practice for the future vette.


Ah, the original motor so many years ago... so much spent on it before realizing it was a dumb money pit of a motor.



Fitting the motor for the first time - still an iron block at this stage (and in Oklahoma.)




Crappy PITA center outlet headers installed.




That epic moment when I realized that I put the aluminum motor in with the header on - hooray removing steering shaft. Hooray unnecessary steps!



Test fit the new headers. MMMMMMMM. Sort of which I had gone ceramic coated but at the same time I thought I'd be drilling them for the O2 sensors.




Puchased two mandrel bent J tubes off Amazon that fit the flange perfectly. Also ordered some O2 bungs for 4 bucks a pop as an add on item. Came up with:




WHY SO SERIOUS? Cause there is too many damned wires!



New fuel rails to go to a returnless setup once I realized the 47psi of the intake pump would not meet my 58psi demands, and that I could make the bay less cluttered.



And cutting apart all of Bill's hard work to clean up the rat's nest/dirt collector/mud dobber haven of wires.

 

Oh hell yes.

 

Dayummmm! I am just as psyched as I thought I'd be when this big update came! That is sick! Oh, and bless 'Bill'!!!(?) ...I can't say I'm looking forward to that spaghetti soup part of my swap when I get there.

Excellent work and patience! The latter is something which I am definitely going to invoke when it comes time for me to do this, albeit a different engine, which I'm sure can be a very stressful time at points.

Can't wait for the rubber laying inaugural video.

 

After messing with the harness so much I am very confident I could do one in a few hours with the right crimper and removal tool (about 100 bucks). I just bought them. If you look at it as individual systems like ok now im wiring 8 fuel injectors. Plugging them in, running them to ECM. Then so on and so forth. It's easy.

Also buy right the first time. dont save 15% and buy something three times like I did.

 

These bulkhead connectors are nice. Good to see the progress!

 

Looks great thanks for the manifold pictures, do you have any pictures of underneath around the steering and front diff/ oil pan area?

 

Not on hand. I went with some aftermarket brackets for PS pump and alternator, had to go to the smaller camaro alternator to clear the steering box because of it. If my CNC plasma table gets done I'll try to make some accessory brackets for this swap. I have about half an inch of clearance from the bottom of the camaro oil pan to the dif.

 

Are you running any body lift?

 

3" bodylift. Required.

 

Anyone have the black wheel caps for these bad bouys? need one for rear and one for manual locking hub front.

 

Darn I was hoping you had gotten this far without it and it was going to be just that much easier for me but apparently not...

 

Batwing oil pan, custom oil pan, SAS, you might be able to get away with it. I just came across the ability to weld aluminum so I might be trying to drop the motor down in the future.

A body lift was the first thing I installed, after an ls1 intake to get the motor shorter.

Also, if anyone knows the fitting on the fuel pump assembly, feel free to post it at https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...d-size-274803/

 

So front drive shaft question - I swapped d300 flanges to bolt up to the toyota shaft. If I rotate the driveshaft it fits around the monster transmission. However, the original tcase end has a larger bolt pattern than the flange on the dif. Can that flange be changed? Whats the spline? Or should I just swap out that ujoint and such...

 

I also looked into having the oil pan cut and re-welded but since I am keeping the IFS and the AC on the LS motor if it goes down too much more it will interfere with the control arm and the back of the ac compressor. You can also drop the front diff down about an inch if that will help you any Mrarmyant.

 

Really? How is this done? That would have saved me considerably in the past. However now would be even better because the shaft just might fit the right way and I'll have more than 3/8's clearance between pan and dif.