Project: 86 p/u sas/om617 diesel swap
May 21, 2012 | 02:51 PM
#281
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From: Nebraska
If the motor's in the truck, it's impossible to get to and you'll have to take the 2 allen head bolts off the rear of the IP that hold on the tranny controller to get enough room to slide the vacuum hose over the shut-off solenoid. Then the line will go to a power-off-open valve (mine is broken so I need to get a new one), and from there a line will go to a T-fitting in the line going from the vacuum pump to the brake booster. I believe you can see my T-fitting installed in one of these pics.
Jun 13, 2012 | 02:45 PM
#284
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From: Nebraska
Well, my 35's measure to a 33, and they have to because my speedometer is right. I put 36x13.5x17 BIAS PLY Irok's on (which are actually 37's, and even bigger than their 37x14x17 size), and went from 19.5 mpg highway, to 22 mpg. I'm shooting for 25 mpg minimum when all is said and done. I cannot believe how well these bias ply tractor tires ride! Nor can I believe my mileage went UP with them! The change to 37's really helped out. It lowered my rpm's, dropped my egt's, and increase my mileage. My 37x13.5x17 Toyo MT's have been ordered and should be here Friday or Monday. I'll definitely post some pics when I get them on. The Irok's will just be my off-road tires that I'll put on my extra rims.
The oil return line from the turbo is leaking like a sieve, and my turbo waste gate adjustment nuts are seized on the turbo, so I may just upgrade my turbo and find a fix for that leaking seal while I'm at it.
I'm now looking into intercooler and meth injection options, as my egt's are always above 1000 on the highway. I may also try to crank up the full load adjustment screw.
The oil return line from the turbo is leaking like a sieve, and my turbo waste gate adjustment nuts are seized on the turbo, so I may just upgrade my turbo and find a fix for that leaking seal while I'm at it.
I'm now looking into intercooler and meth injection options, as my egt's are always above 1000 on the highway. I may also try to crank up the full load adjustment screw.
Jun 30, 2012 | 03:46 PM
#287
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I love the use of your little jack! Too bad with your sad you will never get to use it again 
Who woulda thought I'd be doin a SAS in the middle of January?! Figured for sure I'd have to wait till at least March. Well I got half done today. Ran out of welding gas already. Somethin aint right, hopefully I can figure it out tomorrow. I think I may have a faulty flow meter. Anyways, here's all my pics I took. Pry shoulda taken more but I was trying to use every minute of this 60 degree day I could. It'll be 30 on Tuesday.
Never did I ever think I'd see BRAND NEW paint on the torsion bars! And the bolts were just as clean. I was astonished.
IFS On
IFS Off
Reinforcement plate installed (Gotta finish welding it. Really sucks I ran out, my welds were going amazingly well.)
Rear shackle hanger welded in, hopefully really well
And front hanger welded on 3/4" forward
Now to try an help, I know my plan was to make a tutorial for the SAS as well since a lot are really vague, but I really didn't have the time. One thing I would like to mention, is that if you want to get this done quick and easy and you don't care about hurting your IFS crap, you can do the following:
-Unbolt driveshaft
4 14mm bolts
-Unbolt torsion bars in the back
1 22mm bolt. You'll need a breaker bar and a wrench. My impact wouldn't move it.
-Unhook brake lines and plug
-Unbolt top mount of shocks
-Unbolt sway bar
-Unbolt upper control arms
3 19mm bolts in between the upper control arm. Breaker bar to get loose (it's a tight fit) and a wrench to get them out. Then unbolt 2 17mm bolts holding the torsion bar on. Remove torsion bar, then pickup up on hub and pull the upper control arm up, and rotate it out. This one one part that no one has specified in any threads that I've read. Hope this helps someone
-Unbolt Idler Arm
3 17mm bolts
-Unbolt tie rod end from pitman arm, or unbolt pitman arm and take it off. I believe it's a 1 3/4" nut. It's huge!
-Cut off differential brackets and then get the rest. Easier to work from the inside out, and leave the easiest cuts for last, so when it falls, your arm isn't snaked in there, and you don't have to worry about breaking your arm. Cutting with the plasma cutter took me about 15-20 minutes tops.
Tomorrow I'd like to get more gas, finish welding my plates on, move my rear u-bolt plates up front and vice versa, and long story short, get it done. I'd even like to get my shocks done tomorrow, in the front at least. Rears might be a while. Using the fork lift at work would be a huge help. I'll get some flex pictures Driveshaft won't be created for a while, and won't be needed till I get a V6 4.88 rear 3rd member. I don't plan on running a steering stabilizer because I think it'll give me more headaches with oil pan clearance than benefits. From the looks right now, the front will sit higher than the rear, so I'll need to get some blocks for the rear. Rear drive shaft angle doesn't look too bad to me. I think 37's will fit no problem. I'd like to see what the biggest tire size is that I could actually run. Ultimate goal for steering is a hydro-assist set up. That's many pay checks away though, so hopefully the steering will be tolerable until then. Cheers!
Never did I ever think I'd see BRAND NEW paint on the torsion bars! And the bolts were just as clean. I was astonished.
IFS On
IFS Off
Reinforcement plate installed (Gotta finish welding it. Really sucks I ran out, my welds were going amazingly well.)
Rear shackle hanger welded in, hopefully really well
And front hanger welded on 3/4" forward
Now to try an help, I know my plan was to make a tutorial for the SAS as well since a lot are really vague, but I really didn't have the time. One thing I would like to mention, is that if you want to get this done quick and easy and you don't care about hurting your IFS crap, you can do the following:
-Unbolt driveshaft
4 14mm bolts
-Unbolt torsion bars in the back
1 22mm bolt. You'll need a breaker bar and a wrench. My impact wouldn't move it.
-Unhook brake lines and plug
-Unbolt top mount of shocks
-Unbolt sway bar
-Unbolt upper control arms
3 19mm bolts in between the upper control arm. Breaker bar to get loose (it's a tight fit) and a wrench to get them out. Then unbolt 2 17mm bolts holding the torsion bar on. Remove torsion bar, then pickup up on hub and pull the upper control arm up, and rotate it out. This one one part that no one has specified in any threads that I've read. Hope this helps someone
-Unbolt Idler Arm
3 17mm bolts
-Unbolt tie rod end from pitman arm, or unbolt pitman arm and take it off. I believe it's a 1 3/4" nut. It's huge!
-Cut off differential brackets and then get the rest. Easier to work from the inside out, and leave the easiest cuts for last, so when it falls, your arm isn't snaked in there, and you don't have to worry about breaking your arm. Cutting with the plasma cutter took me about 15-20 minutes tops.
Tomorrow I'd like to get more gas, finish welding my plates on, move my rear u-bolt plates up front and vice versa, and long story short, get it done. I'd even like to get my shocks done tomorrow, in the front at least. Rears might be a while. Using the fork lift at work would be a huge help. I'll get some flex pictures
Driveshaft won't be created for a while, and won't be needed till I get a V6 4.88 rear 3rd member. I don't plan on running a steering stabilizer because I think it'll give me more headaches with oil pan clearance than benefits. From the looks right now, the front will sit higher than the rear, so I'll need to get some blocks for the rear. Rear drive shaft angle doesn't look too bad to me. I think 37's will fit no problem. I'd like to see what the biggest tire size is that I could actually run. Ultimate goal for steering is a hydro-assist set up. That's many pay checks away though, so hopefully the steering will be tolerable until then. Cheers!
Jul 23, 2012 | 10:20 PM
#291
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Joined: Jan 2010
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From: Nebraska
Well I didn't intend to leave this thread for the whole summer but work has gotten the best of me. I'm only back home to work on my truck on weekends, and I'm always spending every minute I have working on it. I've been taking pictures for a while so expect a big update in the next week or 2.
Basically what I've done since I got the truck running was noticed scorching hot EGT's, but also found out my Pyrometer isn't working right, so it's getting sent in when I get time. I got the rear shocks on finally but haven't driven with them yet.
As I was coming back from Nebraska a month ago, the rear pinion blew up so the truck has been parked since. After wasting the last 3 weekends waiting on parts to get a new R&P set up, I've given up hope and ordered a set up V6 ARB 4.88 diff from wabfab.org which is actually from Trail-Gear, and the gears are Yukon reboxed in TG boxes.
Since the trucks been down, I decided to rip the engine bay apart. I relocated the battery to the driver's side which I'm loving to far. Built a cold air intake for the old battery location but can't find a hood scoop that's about 9" wide and 1 foot long, so I may have to skip the hood scoop CAI idea. I also ripped the turbo off, completely fiberglass wrapped the down pipe to the stack, and then went over that with the stock Ford exhaust wrap. The exhaust tone is much different now; I like it. A lot quieter and cooler in the engine bay, too. I also turned the turbo up 7 1/2 turns, to hopefully put me at 15 psi. I might have to crank it back down, but hopefully this and the CAI will cure my egt problems. I was at 9.5 psi before. The Merc's max is supposedly 12, and the over boost protection solenoid kicks on at 15, so 15 in my mind seems to be a safe maximum. I've heard of rods bending at 18. Also got my water temp gauge installed tonight. Should have done that before ever driving it. I feel bad now, but it was only at 150 degrees after idling for 15 minutes in 110 degree heat.
After much research, intercoolers and meth injection don't seem to be possible or very useful for my situation. An intercooler would work great, but I don't have any room.
Just got all the material for custom rock sliders and a square drive shaft last night, so I'll get those put together in the next 2 weeks. Also going to be fabbing up some cool bumpers between Aug 3rd to Aug 20 when I have 2 weeks off. After that, all I have left is:
Hydro Assist power steering
GM Alt
Line Lok emergency brake
Basically what I've done since I got the truck running was noticed scorching hot EGT's, but also found out my Pyrometer isn't working right, so it's getting sent in when I get time. I got the rear shocks on finally but haven't driven with them yet.
As I was coming back from Nebraska a month ago, the rear pinion blew up so the truck has been parked since. After wasting the last 3 weekends waiting on parts to get a new R&P set up, I've given up hope and ordered a set up V6 ARB 4.88 diff from wabfab.org which is actually from Trail-Gear, and the gears are Yukon reboxed in TG boxes.
Since the trucks been down, I decided to rip the engine bay apart. I relocated the battery to the driver's side which I'm loving to far. Built a cold air intake for the old battery location but can't find a hood scoop that's about 9" wide and 1 foot long, so I may have to skip the hood scoop CAI idea. I also ripped the turbo off, completely fiberglass wrapped the down pipe to the stack, and then went over that with the stock Ford exhaust wrap. The exhaust tone is much different now; I like it. A lot quieter and cooler in the engine bay, too. I also turned the turbo up 7 1/2 turns, to hopefully put me at 15 psi. I might have to crank it back down, but hopefully this and the CAI will cure my egt problems. I was at 9.5 psi before. The Merc's max is supposedly 12, and the over boost protection solenoid kicks on at 15, so 15 in my mind seems to be a safe maximum. I've heard of rods bending at 18. Also got my water temp gauge installed tonight. Should have done that before ever driving it. I feel bad now, but it was only at 150 degrees after idling for 15 minutes in 110 degree heat.
After much research, intercoolers and meth injection don't seem to be possible or very useful for my situation. An intercooler would work great, but I don't have any room.
Just got all the material for custom rock sliders and a square drive shaft last night, so I'll get those put together in the next 2 weeks. Also going to be fabbing up some cool bumpers between Aug 3rd to Aug 20 when I have 2 weeks off. After that, all I have left is:
Hydro Assist power steering
GM Alt
Line Lok emergency brake
Aug 7, 2012 | 03:27 PM
#292
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Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 610
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From: Nebraska
Jeeze, it's been way to long since I've uploaded pics. Just took 150 off my camera.
Gears are supposed to be here tomorrow. Ordered a set-up V6 diff with 4.88's and ARB from wabfab.org. Ordered them 17 days ago. Still waiting for an explanation on that one, not real happy with that kind of service after shelling out 2 paychecks on one item.
I will drive the truck for the first time in over a month tomorrow. Can't wait!!
So I started by polishing the truck. Still need to wax it.
New travel is awesome off-road!
Scored a set of BIAS 37x13.5x17 IROK's from my boss for my 6 old bald bfg a/t's. Put em on some Mickey T's that I'll throw on the back when I go to the park.
What I did all summer. Combine/Baler "Combo Unit"
Talked myself into selling my left kidney to buy these 37x14.6x17 Toyo MT's
Flexin and checkin. Good at all 4 corners!
My 2 diesels
Stock and not-stock
My truck when it was stock
My turbo gets adjusted on the front by taking out this stupid helical style snap ring. This is what was on the back side. That flat head looking screw turned but I don't know what it would do.
Fully double wrapped exhaust (stainless wrap not shown)
Shock bar I made. I don't see why you would EVER buy a kit for this.
Relocated battery to drivers side. Used this optima tray to help keep it in place
Finally got all my led's from superbrightled.com
$50 million paint booth at AGCO
more stuff we do at work
And finally my rock sliders I made
Gears are supposed to be here tomorrow. Ordered a set-up V6 diff with 4.88's and ARB from wabfab.org. Ordered them 17 days ago. Still waiting for an explanation on that one, not real happy with that kind of service after shelling out 2 paychecks on one item.
I will drive the truck for the first time in over a month tomorrow. Can't wait!!
So I started by polishing the truck. Still need to wax it.
New travel is awesome off-road!
Scored a set of BIAS 37x13.5x17 IROK's from my boss for my 6 old bald bfg a/t's. Put em on some Mickey T's that I'll throw on the back when I go to the park.
What I did all summer. Combine/Baler "Combo Unit"
Talked myself into selling my left kidney to buy these 37x14.6x17 Toyo MT's
Flexin and checkin. Good at all 4 corners!
My 2 diesels
Stock and not-stock
My truck when it was stock
My turbo gets adjusted on the front by taking out this stupid helical style snap ring. This is what was on the back side. That flat head looking screw turned but I don't know what it would do.
Fully double wrapped exhaust (stainless wrap not shown)
Shock bar I made. I don't see why you would EVER buy a kit for this.
Relocated battery to drivers side. Used this optima tray to help keep it in place
Finally got all my led's from superbrightled.com
$50 million paint booth at AGCO
more stuff we do at work
And finally my rock sliders I made
Aug 7, 2012 | 03:37 PM
#293
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Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 610
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From: Nebraska
Aug 8, 2012 | 07:36 PM
#295
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Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 91
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water injection
[QUOTE=pyrojoe22;51948466]Well I didn't intend to leave this thread for the whole summer but work has gotten the best of me. I'm only back home to work on my truck on weekends, and I'm always spending every minute I have working on it. I've been taking pictures for a while so expect a big update in the next week or 2.
Basically what I've done since I got the truck running was noticed scorching hot EGT's, but also found out my Pyrometer isn't working right, so it's getting sent in when I get time. I got the rear shocks on finally but haven't driven with them yet.
As I was coming back from Nebraska a month ago, the rear pinion blew up so the truck has been parked since. After wasting the last 3 weekends waiting on parts to get a new R&P set up, I've given up hope and ordered a set up V6 ARB 4.88 diff from wabfab.org which is actually from Trail-Gear, and the gears are Yukon reboxed in TG boxes.
Since the trucks been down, I decided to rip the engine bay apart. I relocated the battery to the driver's side which I'm loving to far. Built a cold air intake for the old battery location but can't find a hood scoop that's about 9" wide and 1 foot long, so I may have to skip the hood scoop CAI idea. I also ripped the turbo off, completely fiberglass wrapped the down pipe to the stack, and then went over that with the stock Ford exhaust wrap. The exhaust tone is much different now; I like it. A lot quieter and cooler in the engine bay, too. I also turned the turbo up 7 1/2 turns, to hopefully put me at 15 psi. I might have to crank it back down, but hopefully this and the CAI will cure my egt problems. I was at 9.5 psi before. The Merc's max is supposedly 12, and the over boost protection solenoid kicks on at 15, so 15 in my mind seems to be a safe maximum. I've heard of rods bending at 18. Also got my water temp gauge installed tonight. Should have done that before ever driving it. I feel bad now, but it was only at 150 degrees after idling for 15 minutes in 110 degree heat.
After much research, intercoolers and meth injection don't seem to be possible or very useful for my situation. An intercooler would work great, but I don't have any room.
Water methanol injection works great, will add significant power gains and mpgs if you can keep you foot out of it. Threw mine together for about $150 and was super easy.
Basically what I've done since I got the truck running was noticed scorching hot EGT's, but also found out my Pyrometer isn't working right, so it's getting sent in when I get time. I got the rear shocks on finally but haven't driven with them yet.
As I was coming back from Nebraska a month ago, the rear pinion blew up so the truck has been parked since. After wasting the last 3 weekends waiting on parts to get a new R&P set up, I've given up hope and ordered a set up V6 ARB 4.88 diff from wabfab.org which is actually from Trail-Gear, and the gears are Yukon reboxed in TG boxes.
Since the trucks been down, I decided to rip the engine bay apart. I relocated the battery to the driver's side which I'm loving to far. Built a cold air intake for the old battery location but can't find a hood scoop that's about 9" wide and 1 foot long, so I may have to skip the hood scoop CAI idea. I also ripped the turbo off, completely fiberglass wrapped the down pipe to the stack, and then went over that with the stock Ford exhaust wrap. The exhaust tone is much different now; I like it. A lot quieter and cooler in the engine bay, too. I also turned the turbo up 7 1/2 turns, to hopefully put me at 15 psi. I might have to crank it back down, but hopefully this and the CAI will cure my egt problems. I was at 9.5 psi before. The Merc's max is supposedly 12, and the over boost protection solenoid kicks on at 15, so 15 in my mind seems to be a safe maximum. I've heard of rods bending at 18. Also got my water temp gauge installed tonight. Should have done that before ever driving it. I feel bad now, but it was only at 150 degrees after idling for 15 minutes in 110 degree heat.
After much research, intercoolers and meth injection don't seem to be possible or very useful for my situation. An intercooler would work great, but I don't have any room.
Water methanol injection works great, will add significant power gains and mpgs if you can keep you foot out of it. Threw mine together for about $150 and was super easy.
Aug 10, 2012 | 09:41 AM
#296
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Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 610
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From: Nebraska
Well the truck moves again! 22mpg on the first half tank. The boost is somewhere between 13 and 14psi now. I'd like to give the nut 1 or 1 1/2 more turns. I finished the cold air intake last night. It sounds awesome! Turning up the boost alone lowered my egt's significantly. The CAI helps, too. If I really want lower egt's, I think I'd have to intercool, inject meth, or retard the timing. I think the exhaust wrap helped some, too, as it contains the heat, which speeds up the air exiting out the exhaust since hot air has a higher velocity. It also quieted things down in the cab. The shocks work great! The locker appears to work. I'll find out next weekend when we go camping at the off road park and hit the trails for 2 full days. Trying to get the front shaft made today. Water temps haven't gotten above 192 yet. They stick mostly between 180 and 190. It was at 185 the whole time I was on the interstate.
My speedometer isn't working. When I corrected the odometer, the whole face of the speedo fell off (the part with numbers on it) and I'm not sure how to put it back together correctly.
Sep 2, 2012 | 07:54 PM
#297
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Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 35
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From: Weatherford, Tx
Hey Joe how's the 4.88 gears doing w/ the 37's? I'm about to have the same set up and am worried about it being geared to low. What kinda mpg are you getting and how does it handle highway speeds? Your build will be a good tool as i start my swap. thanks
Sep 4, 2012 | 07:13 AM
#298
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From: Nebraska
Now in terms of highway driving, the truck was screaming at 65 with the 33's and 4.88's. I have no tach, but you can still hand calculate the RPM's. With the 37's, the RPM's dropped way down and I now cruise comfortably at 70mph. Power-wise, I have none it seems like. My compression isn't perfect, but it's within the "good" tolerances, so I don't think it's that. The only things I can think of are bad injectors or too advanced I.P. timing. I'm taking the injectors in today to get Monark nozzles installed. I'll report back for sure as soon as I get them back in. I don't want to have to retard the timing as it's a HUGE pain, and it retards over time any ways which is why I advanced it so much (27 degrees). PowerstrokeJoe said he turned the full-load-adjustment-screw in and noted a significant power increase.
Mileage so far has been 20 city/hw with 33's and 18city/22hw with 37's. Hoping for 25mpg once I get everything tuned in right.
Last edited by pyrojoe22; Sep 4, 2012 at 07:14 AM.
Sep 17, 2012 | 07:43 PM
#299
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Joined: Jan 2010
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From: Nebraska
Well I put 112 miles on the new injectors just in town and rolled a LOT of coal lol and still got 18 mpg! I'm making a trip to Nebraska this coming weekend so we'll see what I get with conservative driving habits on the highway
I ripped my radio antenna off and need a new one. I'm going to ditch the bed in favor of a flat bed eventually now. The truck is frickin awesome in the sand. The Toyo MT's are really good sand tires. The rear bumper just needs herculiner and it's done. The front still needs some pipe bent for it and then it'll be done, too. My stock front bumper got stolen last weekend, but I found it today, thank GOD!
I ripped my radio antenna off and need a new one. I'm going to ditch the bed in favor of a flat bed eventually now. The truck is frickin awesome in the sand. The Toyo MT's are really good sand tires. The rear bumper just needs herculiner and it's done. The front still needs some pipe bent for it and then it'll be done, too. My stock front bumper got stolen last weekend, but I found it today, thank GOD!
