Is that with an om617 or with a 22r?

 

Nevermind. I didn't read very closely. Did you think of turning your pump up? I did mine while it was still in the 300sd and made a huge huge difference. The injection pumps are set up very conservative from the factory.

 

Well i had asked you a while back how you got your to blow black smoke.
Mine dosent and my thought was that i could just turn up the boost if i was already blowing black smoke to take advantage of the extra fuel. then while i was talking with luke from 4x4 labs i realixed that the alda will dump more fuel with more boost so by just putting in a boost controller and cranking up the boost. which would be nice since i can only get 9 psi out of the stock setup and it would be nice to ahve a little more boost in the hills of VT. Did you just doo a controller, mess with the alda on the IP or did you change the settings inside the pump. are you running a pyro gauge? I heard that you can end up torching the motor if you mess with the setting inside of the IP too much?

 

well i don't have my ALDA anymore, i have pulled the top and rear cover off the pump and removed the rack limiter, as well as 2.5 turns in on the tq control and 1 turn in on the course idle adjustment. then backed the external idle stop until it would return to idle. will blow smoke before it makes boost, gets a nice haze under full boost and as the rpm increases above 3K rpm, will add more fuel until redline.

To be totally honest, it feels like about 40%-50% more power when it was in the benz still. after i had it running the way i wanted it, i yanked it out for my swap.

 

One thing that can't hurt, if you're doing a lot of off-roading, which with anything bigger than 35's im assuming you are, is bigger gears. With rpm's set aside, you will still be safer with bigger gears with the bigger tires. If you have the power to make 4.10's work, great. But they can only handle so much torque going through hem before they break. That's not a very cheap "fuse" in your drive line. Let us know how the taller gears work if you get them.

 

Please explain your reasoning. I know numerous rigs in this area that have stock axles, v8s and 38s and 40s. So how are the stock 3.90, 4.10, and 4.38s not strong enough? I've seen twisted driveshafts, crapped transmissions and snapped axles out of these rigs but still stock original gears in front and rear of all of them.

 

well that's good to hear. My off-roading buddy shredded the stock gears in his ranger when he put a v8 in it, so I just figured bigger gears can't hurt.

 

Ranger axles are crap anyway. I don't know how many 7.5 and 8.8s I have repaired and replaced at work. And "bigger gears" isn't exactly the right terminology. They are the same physical size. The only things that change is tooth pitch, tooth count and tooth depth. On numerically higher gears (lower final drive) there is less strain on the ring and pinion because of the mechanical advantage of the gearing but conversely, they tend to gave a lower stress point because of the smaller pinion diameter and lower pinion tooth count

 

If you have the cash, and still want to have a pretty tall gear ratio, i'd look into narrowing up a d44 f/r, or narrowed d60's would be neat. The d44's would keep the stock 6 lug, but d60's would get you 8 lug + heavy duty axles.

You could get a d60/70 from a Dodge 2500, but i'm unsure of whether or not the drop is on the passengers in the front. Either way, alot of those axles comes with a 3.55 gear ratio.

 

cool idea but they are heavy as hell and thats a lot of work for just a ratio change. thanks for the thought!

 

http://www.drivetrain.com/parts_cata...ion_gears.html

i wonder if those 3.54s that are 6th from the top will go on my 81 carriers or if they are for taco and if they are interchangeable......

 

truckman, could you elaborate on what you did with the engine as far as throttle linkage, and removing parts off the valve cover goes? What happened to the parts I circled in red, and what does this box circled in green do? There's vacuum lines going into a box on the top of my engine, and I just want to be sure I can delete them. From all the threads I've read, I know you can get rid of a lot, but I was wondering what exactly you did and if you like how it works. Thanks

 

both boxes can go away, the one over the ps pump is the cruise comtrol, the one on top of the valve cover is the egr control, and all the vac lines that go with it. are you using the mercedes ignition switch for a shutoff? ill take a pic of mine to show you what i did for throttle linkage

 

and what trans and adapter plate setup are you using traveljoe?

 

WOO! Less parts! I haven't figured out the shut off yet, that one just hit me last night when I started brainstorming the throttle. I'm looking for a W56 C-E (1989-1995) so that I can use my brand new Centerforce clutch with it (rated at 280 lb*ft). My boss at the truck shop has done numerous swaps and is going to help me make my adapter plate, and I'm using 4x4labs pilot bushing and balanced flywheel. Couldn't justify $400 for an adapter plate, especially with all the tools at my disposal right now. It's just a matter of figuring out the right thickness for the adapter plate. We should start making swap kits after we're done, we could make bank!

 

for my shut off, i teed into the brake booster feed and used an audi A4 EVAP purge solenoid with a momentary rocker switch inside the cab. of course i work at a shop so i have all kinds of things like that at my disposal. and forgot to take a pic of my throttle linkage. of course its dark now so i'll try and remember tomorrow. was your truck carbed or EFI?

 

22R, carb'd. I thought about just putting a fuel cut switch like you see in the 4000 series John Deere tractors, where you just pull it out till the tractor dies. Don't know if there's any way to do that with this engine, I might just copy you or someone else...

So with yours, you basically shut the ignition off, which in turn cuts power to the brake booster, which removes vacuum from that Audi solenoid, which triggers it to kill the motor?

 

I had thought the same about the kill cable joe. From what I see it can be done. The stock throttle linkage has a stop lever incorporated into it.

 

I took the throttle assembly off along with the cruise control box last night and noticed there's only electric wires going to the cruise control, so does that mean I can somehow use that cruise control? I haven't seen anyone do it and post about it yet.

 

its a wiring nightmare. you need the MB speed sensor. not worth it. and the cable could be rigged to work, but no, i send power to open the EVAP purge valve to send vac to shut off fuel. these engines will run without any power or vacuum. but you need vacuum to shut them off with the stock setup. hope that helps