I have some toyota literature about the TCCS (7M ECU) Knock sensor. If you want to PM me your email addy I would be glad to send it to you.

Maybe uninstall both the knock sensors from the block but keep it connected electrically and have someone hold them still while you run the engine. They are just looking for resonate frequency so if you can keep them still and it still hesitates its an ECU problem.

 

funny, that is exactly what i was thinking of doing next.

 

Do you have a boost/vac gauge? My CEL would only come on after 10in of vac. Once I rewired it was fine.

Do you have a spare air flow meter you can throw in? When they're unplugged they will still idle and rev up a bit but will fall on their face right around 3000rpm.

 

yea i have a gauge i will have to look and see if the vac has anything to do with it or if it is only rpm.
no spare afm but trying to get ahold of one

 

Did you get a chance to tinker with it? I am really curious to see how this plays out.

 

still no luck. i just used normal wires for the knock sensor rewire without hooking them to the block. hooked them to the ecu pins and to 2 knock sensors that were not hooked to the engine but sitting on the seat. it still throws the code when it gets close to 2k.
i just jumpered the fuel pump test so that it would be running straight and bypassing the cor. it seemed to run a little better and not hesitate as hard but i think it was just me wishing it ran better.
i am going to rewire the knock sensors with different shielded wire and see what that does. then i think i am going to check out the cps again and make sure it is all within spec. then also check the tps sensor.
it is like when it acts up the ecu is overcompensating for the knock code and cutting the injector pulse or cutting the timing or both.
also i need to for sure get the water to air intercooler like now. i wish they would get the f'ing thing instock and send it to me.

 

I vote you try to find another GTE ECU and try it out. They can be had for reasonably cheap on Supraforums or Supramania. Just look in the FS section.
Besides that I cant think of anything else to try off the top of my head.

 

I did some searching on Supraforums MKIII section. Try rewiring with shielded Coax cable and ground the shield.

 

i did the ecu swap. and still had the same result. i just purchased some new rg56 cable from radio shack for $0.79 a foot. so i plan on rewiring them AGAIN tomorrow. i previously rewired and grounded them with rg5.

 

KNOCK SENSOR! Y U NO WORK?

 

good news, bad news
good news- rewired with the rg58 wire and i do not have a cel anymore
bad news- the hesitation is still there, but not as bad.
i am going to check out the cps and make sure it is ok and in spec.
i will try to post up a video in the next few days.
i also picked up some tubing, so i can build my front bumper.

 

Did you check the afm. An issue these engines have is the pcv system, its allows some oil into the intake and can clog your afm. It will still bench test ok, but won't work properly due to the oil. There is no good way of cleaning them. Keep an extra in the glove box.

 

[YOUTUBE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TfSSCT24uAA[/YOUTUBE]
son of a bitch!!!!! this is driving me nuts

 

My vote is totally for CPS but I think the MAF should be next on your list. If you do need to buy a replacement get the Lexus V8 afm (1UZ) and try to find some 550cc injectors from the same motor. That way you can at least get some performance for your money lol.

 

yea here is a repeat from the supra forum ...doitzel kaiser
yea, i am double dipping on some forums to try to figure out this crap.
it reads open or infinite with the .5 and the .9 mm on idl-e2.
SOOOO..i think it is a bad tps but i dont know..
here is a video i just did. once i rev it above the hiccup and it is acceleration, if i let off of the throttle it drops in speed fast (due to the engine braking effect) but if i barely crack the throttle and hold it to just barely open and steady it keep accelerating and not building boost (but keeping vacuum).
also sometimes i heat the whirrrsh noise from the waste gate opening like it is open and having boost level reached to open the gate but the manifold shows no boost levels. so i dont know wtf
also i pulled the cps and the wires were very hard and brittle, the pickup points had cracks at the base of them where the black epoxy is and there was a bunch of surface rust on the metal where the screws hold the pickups to the housing
[YOUTUBE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8im9_...ature=youtu.be[/YOUTUBE]

 

i like all the pictures! sweet swap

 

Yeah, sounds like you have a TPS issue. I really hope you didn't use that eristic head gasket, those headgaskets blow real easy.

 

So Maybe try TPS first as it is cheaper than the CPS plus I dont think you would be able to run it up past 4k like in your last video it it was a CPS issue

 

well i swapped the tps for another one i had from a 22re that was the same part #.
it seemed to help some. but i could usually accelerate hard through the 2-3k spot.
but still does it. i get correct reading on all of the test points now unlike the other original one. so that is good, but still bad.
i might buy a new one and put it in there and see if it acts the same or not and return it if it still acts up.

 

ok so with my 22res when ive had this problem with my tps but usually mine surged I just unplugged the tps and it eliminated the problem so that s an option to try