22RE -> 7MGE 3.0 L Supra
08-25-2010, 02:48 PM
#41
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Check the wiring diagram for the Supra ECU, it should it labeled - if not, let me know and I can try to look (70 hr work weeks kill). For some reason Black/Orange is coming to mind, but it's been just over 4 years . . .
08-26-2010, 06:32 AM
#42
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I looked but cant find what wire I need. I used the small black orange from the b1 connector, used it for the other end of the efi main relay. I did wire everthing according to suprachared but some of his pin outs and stuf dident work for me.
03-09-2011, 01:35 PM
#43
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PM'd question
Hey corax!
First of all that's a beast of a runner! Love it!
Listen, I'm planning on a 7mge swap sometime in the near future. Ive already collected a good amount of parts for the swap, just waiting on the engine. I'm thinking maybe a jdm engine unless I can find a cheap complete parts car to rebuild. Right now I'm trying to build the truck around the 7m plans and need a little bit of help. I've done a couple of searches on clearance (i.e. Body lifts) issues. I know you run a 1" bd lift and want to know the fitment. Was that enough? Is it big enough lift to be able to tinker on the engine when needed? I know that bigger lifts make it easier but I only want to lift as little as needed that's why I'm considering a 1.5" bd lift. What's your thoughts on that? Would you advise to go bigger/smaller?
First of all that's a beast of a runner! Love it!
Listen, I'm planning on a 7mge swap sometime in the near future. Ive already collected a good amount of parts for the swap, just waiting on the engine. I'm thinking maybe a jdm engine unless I can find a cheap complete parts car to rebuild. Right now I'm trying to build the truck around the 7m plans and need a little bit of help. I've done a couple of searches on clearance (i.e. Body lifts) issues. I know you run a 1" bd lift and want to know the fitment. Was that enough? Is it big enough lift to be able to tinker on the engine when needed? I know that bigger lifts make it easier but I only want to lift as little as needed that's why I'm considering a 1.5" bd lift. What's your thoughts on that? Would you advise to go bigger/smaller?
09-19-2011, 06:21 PM
#45
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There's always some project going on. Currently I'm setting up for rally sweep / recovery duty with a side helping of SAR work 
Or you can do this . . .
I don't claim to have figured this one out on my own, I heard about from a guy that did this on his lifted, long travel early 80's Celica. I haven't, however, seen anyone else write it up so it's worth a few minutes to spread the word about a $20 polyurethane engine mount. It's an Energy Suspension GM transmission mount, part number 3.1108 (R or G for red or black). Before I ordered one I measured the stock 22RE engine mount and found it nearly identical. While I don't have a 22RE in my truck anymore I did reuse the 22RE mounts, so this will work on any 22R or 22RE. This might also work for other applications, so hear are the measurements so you can see if it will fit.
Note the interlock that will prevent the mount from pulling completely apart if the polyurethane fails. Only the center hole is needed and the supplied bolt is just about the same size as the stud on the factory rubber mount.
Installation is pretty simple, here's the package I got in the mail. It should be noted that there's a flat piece of anodized metal with 2 holes that comes with it, this needs to go under the mount to line everything up a bit better and provides some kind of preload to the bushing.
I only replaced the driver side mount since this is the one that's under tension, and most likely to tear, when driving forward. 2 bolts (14mm wrench) to the mount pad and 1 nut (17mm) on the engine bracket is all that's holding the old one in. Of course, the engine has to be jacked up a bit to get the old one out, but the new one goes in much easier since there's no stud that has to go through the engine bracket. Also, I heard that the corners of the mount ears might have to be filed down to sit on the factory pad, but I didn't have to file anything to get all the holes to line up. The bolt for the center hole of the engine bracket comes with the Energy Suspension piece along with the appropriate lock and flat washer. If you want, you can use the stock metal cover over top of the mount, but polyurethane is oil and gas resistant so it's not necessary.
I took if for a drive and didn't notice any engine vibrations from the stiffer mount, but then again my inline 6 is a pretty smooth running engine.
Note the interlock that will prevent the mount from pulling completely apart if the polyurethane fails. Only the center hole is needed and the supplied bolt is just about the same size as the stud on the factory rubber mount.
Installation is pretty simple, here's the package I got in the mail. It should be noted that there's a flat piece of anodized metal with 2 holes that comes with it, this needs to go under the mount to line everything up a bit better and provides some kind of preload to the bushing.
I only replaced the driver side mount since this is the one that's under tension, and most likely to tear, when driving forward. 2 bolts (14mm wrench) to the mount pad and 1 nut (17mm) on the engine bracket is all that's holding the old one in. Of course, the engine has to be jacked up a bit to get the old one out, but the new one goes in much easier since there's no stud that has to go through the engine bracket. Also, I heard that the corners of the mount ears might have to be filed down to sit on the factory pad, but I didn't have to file anything to get all the holes to line up. The bolt for the center hole of the engine bracket comes with the Energy Suspension piece along with the appropriate lock and flat washer. If you want, you can use the stock metal cover over top of the mount, but polyurethane is oil and gas resistant so it's not necessary.
I took if for a drive and didn't notice any engine vibrations from the stiffer mount, but then again my inline 6 is a pretty smooth running engine.
12-10-2011, 09:55 PM
#47
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i got a 7m motor out of a cressida with an auto trans, can i use that same harness to swap into my 88 with 22re/w56, or do i need to find a 7m manual trans ecu/harness?
12-11-2011, 06:18 AM
#48
Registered User
The 7M was available in the Cressida 89-92. According to Rock Auto they came in a manual for all of those years, but toyodiy.com says that the manual Cresida was not available in the US. A manual computer and matching harness would be better, but if you are going to do this conversion you would probably build a custom harness anyway. The early Cresidas autos used a seperate transmission computer I'm not sure of later ones, but from what I've read you can run an auto ECU without an auto and it doesn't throw codes. I guess it depends on the year of your engine.
When I did my 5m conversion my engine came out of an 89 Cresida, but I used the ECU, wiring harness and bell housing from an 84 5M Supra. The 5M and 7M blocks are the same and use the same "W" series bell housing, which will bolt up to your transmission behind your 22re. You could use a 7M manual ecu and harness from a 89 or newer Supra it would make your swap a little easier.
When I did my 5m conversion my engine came out of an 89 Cresida, but I used the ECU, wiring harness and bell housing from an 84 5M Supra. The 5M and 7M blocks are the same and use the same "W" series bell housing, which will bolt up to your transmission behind your 22re. You could use a 7M manual ecu and harness from a 89 or newer Supra it would make your swap a little easier.
05-04-2014, 12:34 PM
#49
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Hey everyone! I've had an account on here for a long time but never really used it until now.
I decided to post on this because I put a 1986.5 Supra 7MGE into my 1994 Toyota pickup. Both vehicles were five speed and the truck is 4x4. I have the engine mounted, transmission bolted up, custom radiator built and made custom motor mounts. I know you can use 5M parts to mount it but I was unable to find any so I just made my own.
I read every write up that I have been able to find on these swaps but found that my engine wiring harness from the Supra is different from the ones I've seen used.
I assume it's different because it came out of a 1986.5 which was the changeover year for the Supra body styles.
If CORAX or anyone else on here who has successfully completed this swap could please help me with the wiring I would appreciate it!
I don't know how to use nor navigate this forum well so if you could email me at
Diamond2382prelude@yahoo.com
that'd be great. If anyone wants to call and share information that would be cool too! My phone number is 828-421-3015
Thank you all in advance!
I decided to post on this because I put a 1986.5 Supra 7MGE into my 1994 Toyota pickup. Both vehicles were five speed and the truck is 4x4. I have the engine mounted, transmission bolted up, custom radiator built and made custom motor mounts. I know you can use 5M parts to mount it but I was unable to find any so I just made my own.
I read every write up that I have been able to find on these swaps but found that my engine wiring harness from the Supra is different from the ones I've seen used.
I assume it's different because it came out of a 1986.5 which was the changeover year for the Supra body styles.
If CORAX or anyone else on here who has successfully completed this swap could please help me with the wiring I would appreciate it!
I don't know how to use nor navigate this forum well so if you could email me at
Diamond2382prelude@yahoo.com
that'd be great. If anyone wants to call and share information that would be cool too! My phone number is 828-421-3015
Thank you all in advance!
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