So worked on it again this afternoon. Not that much time spent on it but it sure felt like i got a lot done because i was able to make some things off of my list, (i have a poster board taped up with the entire swap laid out for me and i mark off as i go). I got the battery moved to the other side. I extended the main body power lead. Then got the lines run for the starter and the engine and body ground. The lines are all loomed and mounted to the body.

 

About your points with the Aristo motor:

-The oil pan, yes it's different, but you ended up needing an Aristo pan anyways did you not?

-Yes, the mounts are different, but a set of proper mounts can be had for like 100 bucks from bicperformance. Again, you ended up making your own right?

-As for the wiring, I've wired Supra 1JZs, and Aristo 2JZs into cars, and the wiring isn't that different. In fact, I would argue the aristo is easier, as the body plug is also available on North American cars, unlike the 1JZ body plug. the 2JZ's body wiring is also at the ECU, much like the pickups and 4runners, where the 1JZ body plug is in the engine bay near the battery.


I'm not trying to criticize your swap, you've done an excellent job so far, I just think your reasoning about the 1JZ over 2JZ isn't what you think.

 

well like i said above, this motor was not bought for this swap, at the time i got it, my truck ran fine. This motor was purchased for my sc300 that had no motor in it. The motor i bought came out of the same car, same year, same everything, the Soarer.

I actually bought an Aristo 2jz to put in my sc300, then began to find all the differences and so i sold it and bought the 1jz. Ironically i drove the 4runner to pick up the 1jz... It was only 2 years later, once the sc300 was gone, and the truck was broke down that this evolved. I only have the money from the sold 4runner's old motor and some other parts to do this all with, as family needs have to come first now days. If i had it to do over i would absolutely do the 2jz, on rebuild my own and put back in, never buy a jz or sc300 at all, and leave well enough alone, but that not were events let me.

 

I was thinking the same thing with the wiring thats why I asked him why he thought it was harder. Yes it is harder to do a 2jz swap into a SC300 than a soarer 1jz, because you will have to do some wiring, but with a swap like he was doing I thought the 2JZ would be easier.

But in his situation, I totally understand using what you already have there. If I only had a 1Jz I would use that.

 

I'm interested to see what you do with the power steering and the fuel lines. The jz motors power steering pump is on the opposite side. The fuel line on the truck is also run up the passenger side of the frame rail instead of the drivers side. We had a local place make custom lines to do this. I want to see what you figure out. We didnt look realy hard but some lines from toyota might work.

 

Have not had a chance to work on the truck in a while, but i did a lot of hunting for someone local to fab some lines. I can use the power steering lines from a jza80 body and bolt up, i had a set but one end was cut when i got the motor, so have been trying to find a place that could put a new end on for me. As far as fuel, I will deal with that tomorrow. My cheapest route will be to make my own hard lines. I got a small tube bender (12$), one 6' section of line (4.50$), some rubber coated body mounts (2.50$), and some assorted fittings (@5$), piece of old 1jz cut fuel line. So under 25$ total.

 

Well I got the fuel lines run, both hard supply and a return. Since then I have 2 full days put into wiring. In spare time here and there over the last few months i have been working on some wire notes.

All of the pin-outs i had found for the 1jz were for a obviously different ecu, i have found a few diagrams but all of them i guess are for the 1jz from a supra. My ecu has a different layout and i have 5 extra plugs with 10-20 wires each. This soarer also had the full digital dash, traction control and some other complication like a separate fuel ecu (that i don't have). So after all this pre-work, i started trying to mach up what i could. When i moved the battery i had to relocate the hot feed to the main fuse box. Well in the process of wiring i noticed the alt wires on the 4runer were run through a body harness on the driver side, and the 1jz had some integrated engine harness routing. So i undid the harness that crosses the from of the truck and cut switched and redid it so in now runs the opposite direction inside the side harness. The plug matched up just fine to the alternator.

this is were the harness use to go out to the alt, but now it is a solid loom. This will all tuck behind the batteries new home.

this is the new harness feeding the fusebox and alt to the far side.

To identify more of my wires i used a continuity tester and ran from input/output lines to plugs or sensors i could find on the harness.
Under the dash in the 4runner there are only 2 plugs, but at least i have a good layout of them. Now i have to figure how 80 some wires plug into these 30 odd ones. The Soarer also used the same driverside body plug inns found in the supra but that have no use here so i have had to reverse them back across the engine too.


My truck used the 2 fuel relays, (one with input from the air flow meter box that i don't have in there now), instead of the fuel ecu the 1jz used before.

 

So after some long frustrating time of wire work, i needed some motivation, so... after finishing the injector and ignighter wire up, i decided to route the pump with a relayed full 12volts and try to fire it up. I know this is cheating, and i am jumping ahead, but i needed to do this. The starter is wired through the key cylinder but i don't have the neutral/park switch connected, so i ran a jumper, and I am a long ways from the intercooler, so i just ran a loop of hard pipe JUST TO TRY IT OUT

This was a huge excitement for me, i hope y'all enjoy this too. I made a winmovie so i could drop the quality so it would load for you better.

 

Good job man. on a side note because the 1jz runs off of a map sensor you didnt have to run the turbo output to the intake. It will start and run fine without it. I'm glad your into the wiring stuff, If I had the time I would figure all that stuff out, but we have done it the lazy way and had someone make us a wiring harness. If anyone is interested the company is called 2jzswap.com. The harness is around 450 dollars from them.

 

Have you stopped working on this?

 

So i have not been able to work on my truck this summer between work and so many other things. Life has been crazy. I have only touched it here and there. So here is what i have gotten done. I finally finished extending the ecu harness, spent about 8 - 10 hours trying to mate up the harness wires to the truck. During the summer we got a new shop in town and i just went the other day and got a line made to tie the two power steering systems together. I took the radiator out of my old mkII supra and put it in using MKIV lines. I got the neutral park switch working so i can use the key to start it. I made an exhaust but when i put it in it was a few degrees off and when i tried to work on it i burnt through the pipe, so a scrapped that and put in a flex pipe, tapped in another o2 sensor for the air/fuel gauge. It was not idling good, not getting good mixture; I think my MAP sensor might be bad and or the TPS. Tonight I bolted in the shifters. I cut the floor a little, everything lined up last year but when i slid the motor back i had to modify it. I am using the interior and shifter parts from a pick up to convert from the old twin handled v6 auto set up to the single stick and manual transfer case. The interior parts match up great, it looks factory. I will try to get some new pictures loaded soon.

 

So here is some of the wires extended.


Loomed and ready to go, i put a couple feet extra just in case i ever want to do things different.


Here is the exhaust, i messed up the first hard pipe one i welded up. As you guys have seen i am still just learning how to weld, so for now i just put in a flex pipe to connect the new into the old so as not to make the neighbors mad.

 

welding takes time and a lot of mistakes when you learn on your own.. so don't get down on yourself if your welds look like poop. i am tempted to use some of that flex pipe myself on my 1uz, i have the exhaust running under the pan and there is no room for a flange under there..

well good luck, should be pretty crazy when your done. then its all those little things like tucking in a wire here and there or cleaning this and that.........

 

Well i bench tested my tps and map, both had variable voltages that i would assume to be a sign of proper function, but decided to try to replace to see if that was my issue. I got a tps from a supra but did not work > from a turbo but turned opisite direction due to traction control system in American model. I could not find the map sensor for the 1jz but i had a spare one from an old 5sfe, and compared voltage just for idle purposes. End result is that with it i get 3.65v at atmosphere; 4.95v at +7psi; and at full vacuum only 0.05v; as compared to 2.7, 4.95 at 17.5, and 0.05. With this increased voltage over the low range i start just fine now with excellent idle, but have surges unless tps is disconnected and thrown into default. I have the right MAP on the way but i still feel like it will end up being the TPS. My tach is not working, tapped on ignitor lead but no result at dash, tried test my factory tach and nothing... tapped aftermarket though and good results.
So.. on the upside
It moved for the first time!! I drove forwards and back in the driveway. Got bold and decided to go down the block. When i got to the corner i noticed the volts where dropping... no alt output??? So i turned around to go home and when i turn the wheel hard the steering bound then gave and the motor tilted up in place! So, turns out that even though i took out the dampener, at full turn the attachment point on the steering hit the oil pan and dug in. Dented but not punctured. A little time with the grinder fixed that problem.
So about the driving> WOW even though i am being gentle for now (under 4k) as i came up, it lagged at 800-1500 or so then a little spooling and in launched through 3500, good blow off and into second gear, then repeated but this time held at til 4000...no shift... let off, good blow off, again up..but no shift... I think i may have an issue with the speed sensor. OK so i have a long way to go, but it went down the street and man that felt good.

 

here is a picture of the finished console swap with manual shifter added and relocated.

 

nice swap bro, i'd be curious as to what you'll get at the rear wheels as far as hp goes.

 

Alt. was easy enough to fix. I had to check back through the wiring, the culprit was a bad connection where i rerouted all the lines and swapped the alt and batt around. There was a pinch point under my battery mount. Incidentally i have to move it back 2 inches due to the back of the headlight touching on a test fit tonight. I will work over all the transmission wiring to try to solve the not shifting issue. Then i need to address the bad air/fuel mix... But I am putting out amps from alternator now at least.

 

What is it doing at idle to make you think its a bad A/F ratio?

 

I dont want to high jack your thread, but here are a few pics of my buddies that he is working on.

 

Don't know what you guys are doing for cooling, but if you can live with hood pins, you could take out the top of the rad support, trim the back of the grill a bit, cut off the two brackets on the front of the frame to hold the bumper (still leaves the two threaded holes in the frame), and then you can bolt the stock rad to the front of the rad support with the bolts that mount the ac compressor to the frame using the stock holes. Frees up more space behind the rad for cooling fans. I did it on my 7mge swap, and I 'm happy with the extra space, as I have read that pusher fans are not as efficient as pullers. With the rad bolted in, I still have about an inch between the rad face and the grill.