Got a little more done today. Nice to be actually reassembling something. Today it was the engine. As you may recall I had stripped the TB, intake, and lower plenum so I could get at the starter to replace the contacts.

Put the coolant pipe back in place and was ready to tackle the injector/fuel rail seals. Had to pull the fuel rail assembly - easy as pie - 4 nuts.

Complete, as it came off the engine...


Fuel rail assembly removed


Fuel rail assembly (upsidedown)


Injector in the rail - these pull straight out pretty easily.


Rail with the injector removed.


Here's an injector removed from the rail. The grommet and insulator was pretty brittle. The o-ring was still pliable, but a couple of injectors came out very easily. There was a little leaking that predicated this teardown.


The injector with the old parts removed. From the left is the o-ring, the insulator, and the grommet.


Here's a side by side with the new part - notice how in the last pic that the grommet was all deformed.


P/N's (sold by each):

90301-07001 - O-Ring
23291-41010 - Insulator
90480-13005 - Grommet

 

I pulled the cam covers and cleaned them up nice in a parts washer (note to self, get parts washer for home shop).

They came out nice. Down the road after I've had this thing in and running for a while, I'll consider painting the covers and maybe the intake. Gotta head out to Lowes and find some rubber washers for the cam cover bolts. The old ones were shot.

All cleaned up...


Nice clean looking valvetrain...


It was good getting the intake back on:


Also discovered that the fan oilpump had another piece I could take off, so fabbing a coverplate to use the stock fan pump housing looks like it will work out.

Here's the other piece of the pump. I need to drive the pins out of the housing still.


Might not look like it, but there is ample clearance for a 1/4 coverplate with pulley attached.

 

Last but not least, I think I will likely be making a custom oilpan. This one came with a front sump and might work out, but I want to keep it a little lower in the frame if possible. Here's reference pics. I'd like to make it hug the diff like the one on the 3.0

The black part is steel, but the silver portion is aluminum.


The back part of the upper pan is also the attachment point for the bellhousing. I might have to rethink this...

 

Yeah the oilpan is going to be fun. I'll be searching for pictures and info from our friends in Australia.

 

I just saw the in the FSM that the proceedure is to remove the engine and tranny together then unbolt the tranny after it is out of the truck

 

That works if you have the truck about 3' off the ground and an overhead hoist with about 16' of ceiling height. Not real practical for us shadetree mechanics.

Did I read that you were reusing your A340H?

 

Ok thanks for talking me out of that idea

No I have a wrecked 2001 tacoma donor for everything I need. Here she is if you want to see Goldie: http://community.webshots.com/album/383446112ZpbXpN/0

 

Hey, whatever it takes .

FYI, finally got my 4Runner back from Davis. Pretty much all new front IFS suspension parts. Man I wish a had the time to SAS it with the $2,000+ check I got from the insurance company!!

 

I'd have given you all of my IFS stuff for $2000 installed.... :pat:

 

OK, we're 99.9% sure an oilpan off of a 2UZ (4.7) V8 will fit the 1UZ block. It appears that the steel part of the pan on the 2UZ is longer (instead just being up front) and is sort of a mid-ish sump designed to clear a front diff. This affords a better chance at a better fit with my config. Also, the steel portion could be reworked or a custom steel bottom pan could be worked up.

I found a 2UZ that had an electrical fire and burned up the top half of the motor, so I'm guessing they might part out the motor.

 

Sounds like a great plan. I'll pick up a 2UZ pan when I come across one for sure.

 

Muzz over on Lextreme posted up his combo of the original with new alum grafted in.


Looks like a ton of work to me - I'd prefer to bolt together as much of this as possible for future swappers here in the US. If it fits and I can get it cheap, I'll attempt the 2UZ route. Even if I need to modify the steel part of the pan, it would be much easier.

Here's the Landcruiser version I found over on a tricked out Tundra over at Tundrasolutions (pics by jjc).

 

what you dont want to work on your "weld on AL casting" skiz?

WUS! []

 

I have NO doubt I could TIG it effectively, but I'm trying to this as much as possible through bolt together solutions so the next contestant can have an easier go of it. Yes, it seems like a gameshow...

 

i think i saw that one on ebay! btw, are you using the us spec ls400 ecu? i think most of the swaps so far used the japan celciour or something ecu becuase of the speed sensor issue for the abs. then again, i read that on lextreme, so youve probably already seen it.
btw, my roomate has a 2000 tundra, if you want me to snap some pics of the oil pan, let me know.

 

I got my tranny separated from the engine about 4 inches. Was the torque converter supposed to stay attached to the engine? I was thinking it would stay attached to the tranny. So far it's lost about a 1/2 quart of ATF out of the front.

 

When you install a auto tranny you put the converter on the input spline of the tranny, bolt the ball housing onto the engine, then from the gap in the bottom bolt the tc to the flywheel. So it will stay attached to the motor if you havent undone those bolts

 

No I haven't undone those bolts. Is it too late now, or can I go ahead and seperate them after I get the tranny down?

 

YES PLEASE!!!!!!! I got zero help over on ih8mud and tundrasolutions. Guess they only hepl their own. I got the same treatment when I asked what a 2UZ weighed. (both times after searching extensively I might add)

The pics above of the LC oilpan were buried in the photogallery over there. I actually stumbled onto those through Google I think.

If you need to EM the files, send them to cebby at corequipment dot com

THANKS!!!

That Tundra motor would have been coming from Mt. Pleasant PA or threreabouts... They've easily had it for over a year at this point.

 

Mine is still attached to my engine. For reassembly, having it on the trans makes more sense. For disassembly, I'm not sure it matters. I don't think you can damage it with either removal process (newbie to it though)