A few general questions for everyone:

1. I bought an engine stand. I've never used one. Do I bolt this to the engine where the bellhousing normally bolts up? Newbie question I know...

2. Anyone who has pulled this motor, what sizes of sockets/wrenches are needed? I don't want to truck every single tool I own down to this shop (it's close by, but I'd need to lock up and set the alarm every time I run out, etc.)

3. I know I'll be splicing some wires. I want to get a few spools and was wondering what guage would be a suitable all around wire for hooking stuff up. It will most likely just be computer control stuff mostly. Anything thick, I'll get something specific to that app. For the general stuff, should I go 18 ga or 16ga?

 

Yes, though you will most likely need longer bolts than the factory tranny bolts. Nothing a quick trip to the hardware store cant solve.

 

Thanks for the info!!

Does anyone know what the bellhousing to engine bolt size normally is? Funny thing - when you buy engines and transmissions separately, you don't get the bolts....

 

:pat:

keep up the good work...

 

The pushing fan on the 4.7 is probably just for the A/C. My 4R doesn't have one, but my GX with rear A/C has one pic below of the G/X. I dont think you will need one.



Keep up the good work, looks very interesting.

 

Did my best to get some pix of the radiator. It's a bit tight down at the bottom to get a good pic of the inlet. Hopefully the combo of the pix and my description will help.

Pic 1: Shot of the rad from the passenger side. You can see the return line going back to the engine from the driver's side in the upper part of the picture (just in front of the battery). At the bottom of the pic, I am pointing at the tranny fluid return line.

Pic2: View of under the rad looking up. Shot shows, in addition to the swaybar and my skidplate, the radiator input line. The radiator hose is the larger brown hose in the middle of the pic. It is about 6" above the bottom of the radiator. Pic is taken from the PASSENGER side of the vehicle. In fact 3 of the 4 lines attached to the radiator connect on the side of the radiator, on the passenger side of the vehicle. In order from bottom to top: Rad Input, Tranny Input, Tranny return.

Pic 3: Shows the lines going into/out of the passenger side of the radiator, taken from the top of the vehicle. On the right is the tranny return, middle is the tranny input, and if you look REEEEEEAAAAAALLLLL hard, you can see the rad input just below the tranny input.

Hope this all helps somehow...

Steve

 

Thanks for the pics Steve! That should help deciding which rad to use.

 

Here's the finished work bench - took it down tonight around 10pm.




Decided to tear into the ol' girl a bit...



Got the hood, corner markers, turn signals, grille, headlights, battery, and AFM/K&N FIPK removed.


Here's a pic of the 1UZ motor mount. Not sure how it will work with the 3VZ mounts, I guess the 3VZ mount bolts directly to the block - need the other motor out first to verify...




Now to figure out what is missing from the motor. I'm wondering what this is right in the middle with the non-grooved 4 spoke pulley. The connections look like PS pump fittings....hmmmm.




AC pump and Alt go somewhere on here - either on the left...



or on the right....



I'd bet the 2UZ (4.7's) have the accessories in the same place as the 1UZ - Hmmmm......

 

it appears that the power steering is on the passenger side...

maybe these will help:

 

So do you need the ac compressor and alternator still? The ac compressor should be the same on the 4.0 and 4.7 which will make finding one easier. Not positive about the alternator but you can alway get one from Mean Green.

 

more...

GOOD 1uz source... http://1uzfe.com/hp_links.htm

and...

from: http://spw.starkie.net/project1.htm - 1uz swap into toyota truck

ac comp is on the driver side and the alternator is on the passenger side...

 

That pic is EXACTLY what I was looking for! Thanks Andy!

 

Yep. That is exactly how everything's positioned on the 4.7, too... That funny, non-grooved pulley should be the water pump, by the way.

Steve

 

It looks like the 1UZFE has the hole in the crank for a pilot bearing? Is this true?

Thanks

 

I wouldn't know. I'll take some close up pics tonight. What should I be looking for?

FWIW, Toyota NEVER offered this engine with a manual trans behind it.

 

All I would need is a close up of the end of the crank.

Is that just in the states that they didnt put a manual behind it or in the whole world?

Thanks Cebby, you rock!

 

In the whole universe....

 

Darn....

Well how did that one guy over in AUS. put his R150F from him 2nd gen. behind his 1UZFE?

Thanks

 

There are many guys who have done it. I'm not sure how though - I never planned on doing a manual, so i never looked at it too closely.

Maybe they are all machined? I know they use special parts just for the manual conversion, but am pretty sure they don't touch the crank...

 

It’s no big deal as Dellows produce bell housings and kits for this engine to suit the R150/151 and the R154 series trans.

Also if the 1UZ has the same bolt pattern as a 4.7 then you could use the 5 speed set up from the 100 series V8 Cruiser 5 speed.

The auto has attractions but in this scenario IMHO it's not ideal as they are a bitch to wire up to work properly and their converters are way too small for extreme 4wd use.

But these conversions are nothing new. Remember not everyone use or has an interest in PC's Many have done them to 4Runners and trucks although most I have seen have overheating issues. In 1996 a guy I know imported a virtually new 1996 Surf ( 3rd generation ) and immediately fitted a 1UZ to it and that was 9 years ago !!!. It turned out nice but also had overheating issues mainly caused by using the auto.