2big4arunner

The length of the motors might come into play. From the sounds of it, the prior build that sucessfully used the 1gr had to clear the oil pan past the front diff. So I would assume you would have close to the same issues with the LS1 as you would the 1gr-fe.

I know you keep mentioning that you dont want to deal with OBD2 due to sensors and complexity. If you get a full harness with ECU and connectors you shouldn't have too many issues. OBD2 can really help with tuning and making sure you get the best bang for your dollar at the pump.

With that being said, if you dont want to deal with OBD2 then you dont want VVT-i motors and the torque your gonna get will happen much later in the rpm band. It really isn't hard to make sure all the sensors and equipment work. I might also mention that the 1gr-fe also runs wideband o2 sensors for a very well controlled fuel map. Most tuners have to pay 300 bucks a sensor for an aftermarket version of this.

If you want the 1uz-fe... they make a very fancy version with vvt-i that has been swapped.

Here is a quote from wikipedia

If you dont get the newer unit with vvt-i and you want more power later then get a 1uz-fe prior to 1995.

No matter what.... the LS1 isn't the way to go. Its an inferior motor in build and design compared to either toyota motors.

live4soccer7

I appreciate your time. You keep swaying me away from the LS1. Why do you say the LS1 is an inferior motor to either the 1UZ or 1GR series?

Fuel economy numbers on a VVTI and pre VVTI setup, for those curious:

VVTI: http://fueleconomydb.com/index.php?-...p=0&-mode=list

Pre-VVTI: http://fueleconomydb.com/index.php?-...=SC300%2FSC400

There is a couple MPG difference between the two systems.



My other questions would be mating a manual transmission up to the OBDII setup, would this not cause issue with any of the electronics tied to the original transmission? If so, how would you overcome that? You are selling me on either the 1UZ or 1GR. I came into this thread with the 1UZ set in mind.

egesledder

Yea, except that it makes a LOT more power and LOT more torque starting at a MUCH lower rpm than the 1uz. Its also going to have about the same reliability. I'm all for toyota motors, but that's a load of BS right there.

A 1uz swap would be much cheaper than the ls1 swap though, those motors are pricey.

2big4arunner

So you think the ls1 makes more torque at a lower rpm and that by itself makes it a better motor? Do you have a dyno chart that shows these impressive numbers you talk about egesledder?
No comparison in the reliability side so I wont go there. Toyota always comes out on top of Chevy on their higher hp cars.
Balanced, blue printed, overbuilt (600 hp reliably using the older 1uz)
I have yet to see a Chevy motor not rattle itself apart from idiotic design. There is a good reason you wont ever see me touch an ls1 and thats because I am not willing to waste my hard earned money on a motor with the name "chevy" on it. It does not make it better no matter how hard you try.

Hate me if you want. Been there, done that. Don't care what you think of me.

toyminator2000

The 1uz was originally designed as an indy racing engine an is relatively small displacement (4.0 liter) compared to an LS1 which is 5.7 liters. An Ls1 has 10 years of technological improvements over a 1uz which came out in 1989 so they should have more power. In 1989 GM's L98 5.7 liter corvette engine only made 245hp. The LS1 didn't come out until 1998. 1uz's can be had anywhere for $500 or less while an LS1 will still cost you at least $1500.

As far as which one is stronger, who knows. Ask Shannon Campbell how many Lsx engines he goes through in a year in his ultra 4 car.

live4soccer7

LOL... I was wondering when a 1UZ swapper would chime again. I'm fairly certain I will be going with the 1UZ swap with an r151 transmission mated up to my duals. It is a more compact engine with big potential and a great starting base as well. Just seems like such a kick a** engine. I was always a huge fan of the LS1, but am liking the 1UZ for the truck application.

I'll likely stick with the earlier 1UZ engines so that future mods etc... won't be as picky with the ECU. Please correct me if this assumption is incorrect.

2big4arunner

ooh oooh... you should use an AEM standalone ECU

Thank you Toyminator for pointing that out for me. I hate hearing about that LS1 motor going into everything from 3 wheeler bikes to monster trucks. Dont get me wrong, its a great large displacement engines and probably one of Chevy's best. But not for any toyota

You know my position there live4soccer7. I like the truck motors for the trucks but if you had to pick another motor I agree with it being the 1uz. Have you seen the 1uz vvti in action anywhere? It would give you more torque in the bottom end if you had it working in the truck.

live4soccer7

The issue with the 1GR is that it is similar in physical size (dimensionally) as the LS1 and the yota engine bay's arent that large or tall. That would equate to likely custom sump/oil pan and more BL. I've seen a couple LS1 swaps in the yota and most of them have 3-4" of BL. If I can get away with the 1UZ that should have sufficient power, is bullet proof for the most part, light weight, fairly modern technology for efficiency/power, option for forced induction on stock internals, and is a smaller dimensionally (mostly height is of concern) then it seems like a better option.

The 1GR is great, however it is simply larger. I would rather see 3-4" of lift in suspension than on the body for articulation/clearance purposes, granted the rig isn't already lifted too high. I also want to 3 link the front, so I think the more room/space between the engine and axles would be beneficial for all that plus cross over high steer.

The original motor that I was sold on was the 3.4, which also is a decent motor, however the 1UZ I think is a better option because of power/weight/efficiency/reliability. I'm not too concerned with the added difficulty between the 3.4 swap and 1UZ because I'd rather put the time into something that will be the better option now and down the road. I don't think the better option would be trying to stuff a motor that is simply too large for the rig in it and end up with a mammoth 30+" off the ground and 4" of body lift just to fit a motor with a little more power and possibly slightly better efficiency. I think the added benefits vs the draw backs of the extra COG that is lost is not worth it.

By the way, I appreciate everyone's opinion's and view. Also for keeping the thread to a decent and modest conversation.

NorthIdahoyota

I was gonna do the 3.4 swap but then I saw the drink commercial " Could have had a v8" decided if I was going to go through a motor swap I might as well do it right.

live4soccer7

I like the mentality!

live4soccer7

Put some information together about gear setups with the 1UZ.

1UZ Gearing Information:
Stock Tire Size: 225/55R16 = 25.7" Diameter
Stock Gear Ratios .705 O/D http://www.lextreme.com/34x.html
92 SC400 Rear End Ratio: 3.92
@ 75 in final drive 2710 rpms
@75 in final with 3.62 rear end ratio (some 1UZ lexus cars came with this): 2502 rpms

My Setup:
37" diameter
Rear End 5.29
5th Gear Ratio (R154): 0.753 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_...smission#R151F
@ 75 in final drive 2713 rpms

Calculator Used: http://www.csgnetwork.com/multirpmcalc.html
Adapter Kit: http://stores.boldperformance.com/-s...ard/Detail.bok

I might have to start up a swap thread or add this to my build thread. Any opinions on the numbers or the adapter kit? I'm not familiar with the hydraulic throwouts.
I feel like it should be pretty efficient as far as the gearing goes and the engine should have enough power to easily sustain those speeds (uphill as well). Coming from a 22r, this is important. LOL

NorthIdahoyota

I couldnt get the adapter kit link to work, but is there any reason you are going with a hydraulic throwout instead of a standard system?

live4soccer7

That is strange. Go to quantum-auto.com and then click online store and it will take you there.

I simply listed an adapter kit that I found out there that seems pretty well setup, but have not extensively searched for different setups. I would prefer to have the standard system, but need to find a good setup that doesn't require too much more custom work beyond the product itself. Do you have any good bell housing adapters that work well with the R15x series transmissions. I believe there are a couple different input shaft lengths in that series, but am not 100 certain on yrs or specific details. I also think that the ones with the longer input shafts are the desired ones for this swap with a manual tranny.

NorthIdahoyota: You are running the auto correct?

live4soccer7

Here is an option that allows for the standard/normal clutch fork setup: http://www.bulletcars.com/parts/gear...sion-kits.html

I will continue to see what I can find. If anyone else has other suggestions/ideas/products, please feel free to post up.

Not sure why I didn't think of this one: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Borg-Wa...6_transmission
T-56 transmission would be pretty impressive behind the 1UZ. Lots of options for gearsets as well. Anyone know of t-56 adapter plates/kit for the gear driven tcases?
Edit: quick google search pretty much shot down those hopes and dreams. Back the the R154 unless someone else chimes in with a possible solution. I do really like the gear selection though. The 6th gear would make for some good economy driving with the 1UZ.

live4soccer7

Another little gold mine of data: http://oldschool.co.nz/2011/forum/in...howtopic=30736

Wiring information: ^

live4soccer7

Further information regarding this topic will now be carried out in the following thread:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f158.../#post52027971

I will still reply here, however any relevant research/information will be carried over to the new thread.