so i've gotten the 3.4 mounted into the frame of the truck already to go. i spent the about 7 hours today trying to get the darn tranny to mate with the engine from under the truck. i went out about bought the trans adapter for a 2 ton floor jack think this will solve all my headaches, which is hasn't. Is there any tricks of the trade i'm missing to get the engine and tranny mated from under the truck? Does not having a body lift on my 92 pickup cause the issues i'm having? what do you guys recommend me doing. i thought about shoe horning the engine with tranny attached out of the truck, but seems way to dangerous.

i've searched... btw,

 

jack the front end of the motor up so it tilts back. Get the angles of the tranny and the motor to be the same relative to the ground. I'd say just bench press the thing in.. but i guess not every one can do that.

 

I agree on tilting the motor back.

Also, some long bolts threaded into the motor with the heads cut off to act as guides for the transmission as you are sliding it in. I had three guys helping. One on the jack raising and lowering, me on one side, a another buddy on the other.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160...23/index7.html

Page 7 shows my process, although not extremely detailed.

 

Slow down and take time to see what is holding it up. Is it an auto or 5 speed tranny? I agree with the other posts.

 

5 speed manual.

 

yes, the other posts are gold.

Jack up the front of the engine, and match that angle with your trans jack. this helps because the angle is a little more in your favor to line up the input shaft before getting the transmission bolted in to its final location. (if you are on the ground)

Apply a high temp moly based grease to the input shaft to help it slide in. (be sure to clean off old grease, greases don't mix well)

Truthfully, this is the worst part of the project. I know this sounds fruity but you've just got to "feel it" because your SOL trying to look into the bell housing to try to match everything up.

Also, I don't know if you have the T-case installed already, but IMO its way easier to install the T-case after you have the transmission bell housing all bolted in.

Did you do a 3.4L swap? I see your signature says 92 v6, which would mean the 3.0L 3vze. Anyways, in regards to the T-case deal, older toyota trannys and t-cases seal off of each other when installed. This means that you have to drain the tranny and t-case for installations.

In newer toyotas, 1996 up, the transmission seals off of the t-case, and the t-case is individually sealed so you do not need to drain it.

Just a thought, I hope this helps out.

 

Updated Signature. 3.4 swap in progress.

I went out got two 6 inch long 12x1.25 Metric Bolts which i will decapitate the heads off and use them as guide pins. The transfer-case is attached. I'd rather not make more work than needed. But then again if it makes things just that much easier it might be worth it in the end.

I almost wish Toyota made the frontend / frontclip to unbolt and this way you could shoe horn the engine with out getting all crazy on it.

What do you think of high temp anti seize instead of the moly-lube?

 

Just be easy on greasing the input shaft, dont want to push your pilot bearing out...

 

Moly lube and anti-seize are very similar. As long as its high temp, you should be ok. I used the moly on everything because its called for use on the release bearing contact point (fork side), and on the 3 points on the clutch fork.

Just make sure that you don't gob a lot on there, a little goes a long ways. I've seen people put too much of that stuff on and then they wonder why their brand new clutch is slipping right off the bat

I would highly recommend separating the t-case, its about half the weight and less of a headache to get the input shaft lined up.

 

I don't see how this would "push your pilot bearing out" but too much causes the grease to fling everywhere, getting between your flywheel and clutch pressure plate, causing the clutch to slip.

 

I use grease and a socket to push my piliot bearings out, it works pretty well and is fast at doing so. A big gob or grease on the end of the input shaft would do the same thing. Just trying to cover any aspect the may not have been covered. As to not everyone is a mechanic and some people dont know any better. Like you said as long as its not gobbed on there he should be fine.

 

I see what you are saying, but you need to bang the socket with a hammer and keep packing it with grease until it pops out, multiple times. I don't think that just using too much grease could even pop your bearing out. I imagine it would eventually kill the bearing, as it is permanently internally lubricated and does not need excess grease around it. but if you ever see a pilot bearing pop out on its own, take a pic lol the craziest thing I have seen happen to a pilot bearing is a seized one that was ignored welded itself in place.

 

have the trans in gear so you can turn the output shaft to align splines to match between clutch hub and input shaft

 

I think that would be harder than having it in neutral. Now its a mandatory 2 man job, one has to line up the shaft and one has to turn the output. If its in neutral, and the input shaft is out of line when you put it in, it will turn and line up automatically. You just have to wiggle it a little.

Also, you would have to keep the transfer case on to do this. So you double the weight, and need a second person.

Its your choice though, were all about opinions on yotatech!

 

He said he got a tranny jack adapter, easy one man job with that. Even with dual cases on it.

 

op you just gotta get the angles right and and give it a wiggle. Find the "sweet spot" heh, gigity..

 

dont forget to cut a slot in the decapitated bolts. Much easier to back out them out later with a standard screwdriver although you could use pliers but the screwdriver is MUCH easier.

 

slotting the end of the bolts sounds a lot more yota-techish than pliers. =)

 

so i end up getting to long bolts cut and slot them. helped out so much i got the tranny in about 1 hour.

thanks guys... now trying to figure out which is the best way to route the wiring harness for the tranny.

 

I have auto but mine came down the drivers side and then acros the top of the tranny over to the pass side.

Congrats on getting the tranny lined up and in.