What's up everyone. This thread is going to cover my 3.4 swap along with a 5 speed swap into my 94 4Runner 3.0 Auto 4x4. I have a long way to go still but will post up whenever I can the progress I've made and info I've learned. This is a long post, if don't care to know the full story and just want the swap details, skip to bottom. Otherwise, here's my journey to my swap. I have spent countless hours researching this swap and have been holding onto parts for about 2.5 years since I decided to do it. Originally, I planned to keep the auto and I knew buying a T100 would allow my trans to shift and oil pan stuff to be right without mods. I bought a low mileage T100 with tons of body and frame rust and took everything I could before scrapping the rest. I got every engine part under the hood, the engine of course, trans and other little bits I might need for about $500 after scrapping rest of truck. Life happened, the swap got postponed, and I was sitting on a pile of parts. Turns out transporting a fully dressed engine and trans multiple times while moving, on top of paying for storage when I no longer had a garage gets to be a nightmare and I had no expectation to do the swap anytime soon so I stripped the block of everything that could fit into easy to move boxes including my fresh resurfaced heads, wire harness, intake, ect. I gave away the block due to needing to move quickly and have been holding on to the rest for about 8 months. Well, fortunately life changed, we started a business, had a baby, and were able to move into a house with a garage (a small one but it beats working in dirt and sun any day) and finances are not as tight. With my 2nd gen running like crap due to bad compression in cyl 6 and an electrical issue causing my trans to have problems, I knew it was time to get back at it. I recently scored a 96 4Runner 3.4 5 Speed 4x4 that had been wrecked. Higher miles than I liked but it ran well and was the right price. I also picked up a 92 4Runner 3.0 5 Speed that had a bad engine. I took every part I needed or wanted and parted out the rest of both trucks and actually ended up about $200 in profit on top of free parts! So here we are, the work has begun and I can't wait to have my 4Runner back.

I'm going to post things in the order I do them and try to keep separate sections for easy reference. Tips, tricks, and feedback are appreciated! I'm learning as I go so I don't have all the answers except for what I've researched. Even with all the time I've spent reading info on this swap, there are some things I will be discovering and doing slightly different to fit my needs. I'm also trying to keep this as low cost as possible but understand that sometimes a little money spent is worth it to get the job done right and efficiently. Here we go!

Recipient- 94 4Runner 3.0 Auto 4x4
Engine Donor- 96 4Runner 3.4 Manual 4x4
Trans Donor- 92 4Runner 3.0 Manual 4x4

A couple pics of my t4r.



Summit of Imogene Pass in Colorado.

The removal of 3.slow and A340Horrible.

Removing the engine and trans together.

Found a huge crack in the top of the bell housing. Glad I don't need it!



An empty engine compartment ready for cleaning!


Oil Pan, Oil Sump, and Dipstick Relocation
Now that the 3.0 is out I'm prepping the 3.4 for install. This means swapping oil pans, oil sump, and dipstick. Im a smarty and didn't save these things from my old t100 engine. I didn't spend any money on these items. I used the 3.0 stuff. Everyone says you need a t100 dipstick and oil pickup. I'm pretty sure my 3.0 stick will work. My 96 3.4 had the removable plug where the union goes. I simply swapped them and the 3.0 stick fits fine but I will have to make a new bracket up top for mounting. I plugged the old front dipstick hole with a steel expansion plug. Dorman part # 555-007. I used the 3.0 pickup tube but will have to file down a small piece of the 3.4 baffle. The 3.0 oil pan is the correct pan for this swap so no need to buy a new one unless you have a SAS.

Barely hits the baffle so will file down to gain clearance.

I got the timing belt and water pump changed and put back together. With the engine out of my way I figured its best time to replace control arms. My front suspension bushings are toasted. Its getting brand new upper and lower control arms. Driver side upper bushings were so gone that chunks of rubber fell out as i removed the arm. I will save my original arms and rebuild them. Also completed the ADD delete mod since I have manual hubs and the add system seems like a potential failure point.

Exhaust
After multiple delays and screw ups by UPS my crossover from Yotashop finally arrived. This allows me to use the stock 3.4 down pipe. Will have to rotate the O2 sensor mount by cutting the pipe before and after the sensor, rotating it and welding it back on. I will tie this into my stock 3.0 exhaust just before the flange from the cat.

FUEL LINES
I used the stock 3.4 fuel line from the fuel rail to the fuel supply line. It screws straight to the 3.0 fuel line with no mods. I had to slightly bend hard piece behind banjo bolt but it fits great.

Battery Relocation
I used ORS battery tray. Fits pretty good and left coolant bottle in stock location. Installation was simple. Just line up tray, mark bolt locations, drill, and mount.



EVAP Canister
I followed 3.4 Swap 101 thread advice on this one. I made a bracket out of angle aluminum to bolt to fender and mount evap can tabs. The bottom mount I made a short rectangle bracket just like in 101. I mounted my VPS on the same bolt off the lower bracket. Fits great.



Power Steering
I used the 3.4 pump with 3.0 banjo bolt and the stock 3.0 power steering hoses. My 4Runner has ABS so it has a large box that the steering lines run through on the front right frame rail. I say this because if you dont have ABS the hoses are different. I had to cut the tab off the pressure hose by the pump. I also had to slightly bend my AC line but not much.

A/C Compressor
I used the 3.0 compressor and switched the pulleys. The stock hoses fit with zero mods or rubbing (except for slight rubbing on power steering hose mentioned earlier). From what I could tell, the only difference between the 3.0 and 3.4 compressor is the angle of the top plate where the hoses connect. The actually hole sizes are identical. The 3.0 plate is angled more upwards. After looking at my T100 3.4 compressor I still had saved, it has the same top plate as the 3.0 compressor but with the correct pulleys. When I need a new A/C compressor I will buy one for a T100 and not have to modify anything.

Its not running yet but my goal is by Sunday. Its Wednesday night now. Just a couple small thing to hook up, bleed my clutch, and finish the wiring. I have about 3 more wires to identify. I have all the wires taped to their corresponding wire from the 3.4 plugs. All that left is to solder them. I actually am opting to go with crimps instead of solder. I bought a ratcheting crimper and non insulated crimps along with marine heat shrink tubing. After much research comparing the two I decided on the crimps. After all, I have never seen a vehicle manufacturer use solder to make hundreds of connections throughout their vehicles. I believe the crimps will be faster and just as, if not more reliable than solder.

 

Awesome project man!! I completed my 3.4 swap last year, what a joy my pickup is now!
Check out my swap, maybe some things I posted will help. As far as the dipstick goes, used the 3.0. Had to use the oil pickup and oil pan from the 3.0 as well to clear the front diff.
Excited to see you progress, these things are fun!

 

Hows your project going?

 

Going well! Work is taking a lot of my time and this heat we have in AZ right now isn't making things easier either but I'm about to finish up my front end work today. New control arms, ball joints, wheel bearings, races, and brakes. Once I'm done with that I'm going to drop the engine down into place. I've been straining my eyes staring at ewds for hours and have marked all my wires for the conversion harness. Never used ewds before so I basically taught myself on the go. After a couple moments of "this sucks, I just need to buy ORS harness for $600" I am feeling very confident and it all started to make sense. Im actually having fun with it now and I'm happy that I got to learn something new and can say I did it.

 

So Ive been at the mercy of usps and ups to get this swap moving. Both of them cant seem to get packages to my door before they lose them. Been waiting on my crossover pipe from Yotashop for 2 weeks since it was shipped.

But, pedals are installed, master cylinder is installed, engine and trans ready to drop into the truck but I want to bolt up the crossover first. Installing body lift and working on wiring in the meantime. Also ordered a front bumper from coastal offroad so Im exited to get that built. Its not here yet but soon I hope.

 

SHE'S RUNNING! AND DRIVING!

I've been bad about updates due to focusing all my time finishing up this swap. I have to say it is one of the most relieving, exciting, and gratifying feelings hearing that 3.4 fire up after putting so much money, time and frustration into it. Runs absolutely perfect, perfect idle (haven't charged or tried AC yet) and everything works except my 4WD dash light. Gotta run through the EWDs and figure that one out. I will post a more complete write up shortly but for now I'm enjoying the heck out of this thing. The difference between a 3.slow automatic to a 3.4 manual is the darkest of nights to the brightest of days! I've never felt the back of my seat so much off a stop light! Time to clean up and secure all wiring and start wiring in my clutch switches and cruise control. If anyone is still doing this swap and has any questions feel free to ask. I'll do my best to help while its fresh in my mind.

 

SWEET!! Congrats!
The 3.4 pulls these older yotas around quite nicely. I’ve never driven a taco, but my gf has a 99 runner 3.4 auto and my 93 absolutely blows her doors off with the 3.4 manual.

 

Yeah I'm definitely happy with the power difference especially after being used to driving my 3.0 for 4 years and the last year the 3.0 lost compression in cyl 6 so had even less power. I should finally be able to travel out of town and up the hills and keep up with traffic. I used to have a 99 Auto as well so it will be interesting to compare the two.

 

So I got the 4WD light to work in 4L but it doesn't come on in 4H. This isn't normal is it? I'm very confused and have been staring at the EWDs and don't know what else to do. Any help would be appreciated.

Update
WAIT, I think i might have figured it out

 

Good Job be glad you did the work yourself.

Nothing like having to work on someone else`s swap when all you know is the vehicle it is in.

The poor kid that paid way to much does not have a clue and no response from the last owner.

in the course half the numbers on the ECM got rubbed off.

 

Im glad I did everything myself. Not only was it fun (most the time), its much more rewarding when it works, and I have gained a tremendous amount of knowledge about my 4Runner and know what and how things were done. I plan on making a diagram to stick in the glove box that will cover most everything that was changed and all the wiring done. This I feel will help me in the future if/when I need to do any repairs but also help if I ever decide to sell it. The next owner will be able to have some confidence that everything was done well and documented.

The only wires not hooked up yet (not sure if im going to) are ABS. I swapped over 3.4 cruise control and got it working, my AC is working, the clutch start cancel button is wired in just like stock along with the clutch start sw. I didnt know I would need the cruise clutch sw from the 96 so my cruise wasnt working, which didnt make any sense as I had EVERYTHING wire properly including the cruise clutch sw. Finally found out after searching the forums that the because 3rd gens used reverse wiring the cruise clutch sw was working opposite of the way it needed to. Since I didnt have the 96 cruise clutch sw and didnt want to spend $30 for one on Ebay I took apart my 3.0 sw and modified it to work the other way. Cruise works perfect now. The only problem I have left is a knock sensor code. Yes, I changed both knock sensors and the harness with brand new ones while I had the 3.4 on my stand. P0330 is what Im getting so I swapped the knock sensor wires on the ecm to verify the code would follow in order to eliminate the off chance that my ecm might be bad. Well, the code changed to P0325 telling me my problem was indeed the harness or sensor. My thoughts are either a pinched wire, plug not fully seated into sensor, or most likely I got a faulty sensor from the store. So now starts the awesome process of disassembling my entire intake again. Other than the knock code, the truck runs awesome and Im stoked. Ive never done anything to this caliber on a vehicle but Im good at figuring things out and by reading countless forums and info online, teaching myself how to read ewd's, and spending nearly all my free time working on it I got it done. Took just over 3 months from the day I pulled the 3.0 to now but that also includes working and running a business in between working on the 4Runner.

 

grats on the swap job! post pics of your bumper build plz.