I have the 1" 4Crawler BL with brackets for the front bumper & radiator. I'm going to get F&R bumpers from Badland Bumpers with a BL mod, so I won't need the bumper brackets once I get them.

I highly recommend the 4Crawler kits and would use the minimum lift possible. With the 1" kit, a couple points of throttle cable bracket and part of the cable just slightly touch the hood insulator, but not the hood itself. The insulator on my truck is in ratty condition, so I'm going to replace it with a new one and just cut out the small area that contacts the cable & bracket. Some guys just remove it permanantly, but I prefer to keep it on. Keeps the engine bay looking factory and deadens much of the noise.

 

I was hoping to use only a 1 inch body lift if possible. Did you have to still cut any of the hood supports? I thought that mt_goat ran a 1 inch also but still had to cut. He's also running an SC but I will not right be any time soon. I was thinking 1.5 just to ensure a good fit and make it easier to install my headers whenever they come off backorder. I will also try to run the hood insulator to keep it factory looking.

I'm going to run a similar suspension setup, can you share the part number of the shocks you're running? I'm not sure what length to order for the BJ spacers and rear lift.

I'm planning on ditching my bracket kit and just do the mild lift with the body lift. I will post when i'm ready to sell the kit...

 

No, I didn't have to cut any of the supports. The SC could possibly be a little taller than the stock air chamber. I also raised the transmission 1" higher at the crossmember and that could also account for increased clearance under the hood.

I'll have to look up the part number on the shocks. The rear leafs are 3" Downey's. The bj spacers are 1.5 thick. I never cranked in the torsion bars, so they are at the stock settings and I left them there when I installed the bj spacers.

 

Yep, it is.

 

Okay, the shocks are Doetsch Tech Pre Runners, front PN#8112D, rear PN# 8268D.

On the front I had to cut part of the flanges on the lower bumpstops to clear the shock bodies. Just remove them and cut with a hacksaw.

 

Looks like I'll have to cut the supports after all for the SC. I have seen a couple hoods with scoops that look real clean, so I'm still toying with the idea of a scoop for the SC when it comes.

 

Thanks for the shock numbers, that will save me some time..

I bought a scoop of of ebay that i was going to graft on to my hood but I'm going to do the BL now. I can't remember how much I paid for it but I'll probably sell it...
This is what it looks like:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Hood-...ayphotohosting

I could easily drop it off to you since I go up to LA from time to time if you want it.

I think I have to go with a 1.5in BL to avoid any holes but I wouldn't mind cutting a support. Plus I eventually want an SC as well so the 1.5 may make the most sense.

 

That scoop looks nice, one of the better looking ones I've seen. Bring it with you the next time you pass by so I can take a look at it and I might take it off your hands.

 

Yeah, I thought it looked pretty good also but I think I'll keep mine as stock looking as possible with the BL. I'll shoot you a PM a couple of days before I head up if I plan that far ahead. Sometimes I go for work at the last minute... I'd also really like to see your truck up close to motivate me to finish mine!

 

Cadman, what would you say the total investment was just for the engine swap to get it running and legal (not the tranny, etc). How short of a time could the swap be done in. I have a 5 spd manual.
I have to get the 3.0 rebuilt or swap in a 3.4 asap before I move back to the northwest.....the truck is a WA truck built with CA emissions standards and has to be smogged up there in May....it failed last time.

 

Nice build up. I like the attention to detail. Thats why It worked out so well.

 

I'd have to do a bit of calculating to figure the cost of the engine/exhaust side of the swap, and it probably won't be accurate for you.

Probably 90% of the cost for a swap with a 5spd will be in the engine and related components. I paid $1200 for the engine ($900 for engine), tranny, transfercase, and most of the engine components. I still needed the intake side (silencer/resonator, tube, airbox, etc..), evap box, and auto shifter assembly. I paid $60 for two airboxes (Ferman's minitruck, Santa Ana), $125 for the evap box from a guy doing a diesel swap, and everything else was new from Toyota of Dallas. You will still need some way to connect the wiring harness and I haven't heard anything about ORS still making a conversion harness, so the best bet would be to contact TMZ here on the board. Various brackets can be made free or next to it. The best thing you can do is find a donor vehicle. If you piece everything from different sources you'll nickel & dime yourself to death, not to mention have potential compatibility issues.

If you have all the parts you need on hand and have read completely through all of the FSMs, it is possible to complete the swap in a week. Pulling the 3.0 out and dropping the 3.4 in only takes 30 - 60 minutes. The rest of the week you'll devote to bolting on parts and minor troubleshooting IF you did your homework. However, when you run into problems, the extended time becomes exponential. If you do the swap, read the entire swap forum at least 2-3 times plus read the FSMs carefully. Only then should you start buying parts. You'll thank yourself afterwards.

If your looking at a complete 3.0 rebuild versus a 3.4 swap, I'd say do the swap.

 

Hey Cadman, how many miles do you have on your rebuild now? Any problems?

 

I can look it up when I get home, but I think I have over 12K on it now with zero problems. In fact, it runs just it did when I drove it the first time up the street. One thing I still need to do is make that bracket for the crossover pipe. I should be picking up a welder pretty soon so I can get it done.

Hows the reliability been with your sc? I'm still up in the air about getting one.

 

how is this thread not a sticky!!

 

I broke one SC belt at about 3000 miles but no problems since then. The 2nd belt is wearing much better, I think the URD pulley (gripper grooves) had a burr that wore through the first belt, but its smooth now.

Other than that one break down (BTW about 500 miles from home) because of the belt, it was just figuring out the inital tuning on it. After the tuning was done its been no more work. I'm glad I have it now. Oh there was all that cooling problem of trying to make a cooling system designed to cool a 150 HP engine suddenly cool a 300 HP engine.

 

Was reading a couple of things in this thread and thought it should be bumped for some new guys venturing into the forum.

This is a must read, and rivaled only by MT Goats, as maybe the best swap thread on the net IMO.

Grab a beer, or a cup of coffee and spend an hour reading all of you researchers!!!!

 

I agree. Anyone doing the 3.4 swap should read MTgoats and this one.

 

Cadman- What 4wd indicator switch did you use on your T/case?

 

I don't know what year it's from, but it has two leads and came from a gear driven case.

The transfer case in my swap came from an '85 4Runner and the switch only had a single wire, but my harness has a two wire connector. I e-mailed Marlin Crawler and got one from them for about $10. I cut the connector from my '96 donor case and spliced the switch to that. Any good yota yard should also have the two wire switch.