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Doing a very even (IMO) 3.4 A/T swap from a 2000 to 2002. cant get much simpler for a first engine swap. My question now is where best to bolt the chains too? thats what Ive been told is to use an ope bolt port, (2) and bolt the chain onto the engine. Where is best to do this for balance, access, etc.....
however this vid shows the engine removed with trans and the entire electrical harness.
are there connectors for the electrical harness so that I don't have to remove the intake plenum and harness that connects to the motor under the intake?
seems likely being that the OEM hoist hook is connected to the engine and he intake.
YOu do not have to remove the wiring harness off the engine. In fact it would be better if you did not. What you should do:
Follow the engine wiring harness into the cab of your vehicle. There will be a large hole in the firewall on the passenger side near the windshield wiper motor. Remove the fasteners on the large rubber grommet and unseat it so you can begin to pull the wiring harness out of the interior side. The wires you see going from the engine into the cab is the engine wiring harness. There will be 3-4 connectors that trail off into the vehicle you will need to disconnect. 2-3 of them will go straight to your ECU. 1 Large one will connect to your dash harness. Take it easy and disconnect all of these plugs pulling them through the firewall 1 at a time until you have pulled all of the wires back through the firewall into the engine bay.
There is also a few wires that trail off in the engine bay back down to the transmission. Disconnect and free them up so they dont get ripped off and hang you up.
There is also a battery harness on the bottom front of the engine clipped to the oil pan/pump area. This is relatively simple but make sure its all disconnected from the battery and charge syustem/ starter.
Secure all these wires to the engine before you pull it with some tape or just wrap them up nicely somehow.
As for mounting points. On all 5vzs I have seen, there is a large black hook on the driver side that supports the intake plenum/manifold that comes up from the head. You can use that hook with some chain. On the otherside, I would suggest using an open bolt hole in the passenger side head to secure the chain to. Something closer to the front half of the head so you get a decent balance. Getting a load leveler will help with this and getting the engine off the transmission.
So this project, swapping a 5vz motor, trans and wire harness from a 2000 year to a 2002. All has been smooth until now, motor installed and doing final connects I realize another mismatch in the electrical harness clips, this one behind the glove box. The Motor cranks but will not fire or run.
Trucks almost identical features, but some wiring components are a mis-match. The lower priority ones are the:
front differential and some of the evap hoses off the intake. The coolant tubes connection flanges to AC compressor also have mismatch formats. Also, I don’t have compressor and the power steering pump belts or wires connected, the wire clips all match though. I don’t think these disconnect will prevent it from turning over..?
The more serious problem seems to be the 3 clip series next to the ECU/ shown below. 1 of the clips doesn’t even fit (blue position) and there are several missing or mismatch wires here. I haven’t compared the wires on the ECU, but the clips fit. I understand that they could also be mismatch so Ill look at those as I try to decide what next??
1- Swap the ECU with same motor?
2- Use some starting fluid in the carb incase the fuel is stale.? The motor from the 2000 has sat for a year. The fuel in the 2002 only a bout 2 months old.
3- Map out all the wire colors and pin locations, compare with schematics and go crazy?
4- Locate the thread I thought I read recently about a member with a useful database of re-pining of these sort of things? Anyone recall that thread?
5- Remove the 2004 harness and place it back in the 2004 truck on the 2000 yr motor? This would require removing the intake plenum, but the wire clips would match!
2000 model. what does this clip series wire to? 2002 model. what does this clip series wire to?
YOu do not have to remove the wiring harness off the engine. In fact it would be better if you did not. What you should do:
Follow the engine wiring harness into the cab of your vehicle. There will be a large hole in the firewall on the passenger side near the windshield wiper motor. Remove the fasteners on the large rubber grommet and unseat it so you can begin to pull the wiring harness out of the interior side. The wires you see going from the engine into the cab is the engine wiring harness. There will be 3-4 connectors that trail off into the vehicle you will need to disconnect. 2-3 of them will go straight to your ECU. 1 Large one will connect to your dash harness. Take it easy and disconnect all of these plugs pulling them through the firewall 1 at a time until you have pulled all of the wires back through the firewall into the engine bay.
There is also a few wires that trail off in the engine bay back down to the transmission. Disconnect and free them up so they dont get ripped off and hang you up.
at this point I think Id rather pull the plennums off and use the 2002 harness as it belongs to the keeper and matches the vehicle dash (3 clip series) behind the glove box, next to the ECU, then re-pin the connections just to use the 2000 year harness with its engine.
I recall doing the intake job an a previous ."98 Tacoma", and I was able to re-use the metal gaskets...
I swapped the ECU and got no luck getting it turned over. 'm going to switch it back so it still thinks its a 2002.
Doing a very even (IMO) 3.4 A/T swap from a 2000 to 2002. cant get much simpler for a first engine swap. My question now is where best to bolt the chains too? thats what Ive been told is to use an ope bolt port, (2) and bolt the chain onto the engine. Where is best to do this for balance, access, etc.....
swapping from the exact year and model would be the easiest........
May 20, 2019 | 09:19 PM
