3.4 Swaps The 3.4 V6 Toyota engine

Build your own 3.4 crossover pipe

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Old May 13, 2013 | 12:56 PM
  #81  
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Originally Posted by Sas954unner
Although not exactly the same design, that looks functionally too similar to the 3VZ crossover to me. Read that as a hot cylinder 6. In reality, I wouldn't know how well it would function, but I would prefer a Y-pipe joining the left and right cylinder banks at a lower location. Or at least angle the pipe coming from the passenger's side back more. That is, the joint shouldn't be at a 90 degree angle, but more of a 45 degrees downwards, so the exhaust is less likely to back up into cylinder 6.
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Old May 13, 2013 | 01:15 PM
  #82  
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Originally Posted by Sas954unner



Not a good idea. It does look too much like the 3.0 style. If there was more of an angle from the passenger bank to "direct" the flow out. Not back in.
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Old May 13, 2013 | 07:35 PM
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I know the angle is a little pitched in but I used extremely large exhaust tubing and restricted the hole a bit where it dumps in by using a hole saw that was only as large as the diameter where it exits the exhaust manifold flange. Will that make te hot cylinder situation any better or should I start from scratch?
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Old May 14, 2013 | 04:14 AM
  #84  
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Originally Posted by NytWolf
Although not exactly the same design, that looks functionally too similar to the 3VZ crossover to me. Read that as a hot cylinder 6. In reality, I wouldn't know how well it would function, but I would prefer a Y-pipe joining the left and right cylinder banks at a lower location. Or at least angle the pipe coming from the passenger's side back more. That is, the joint shouldn't be at a 90 degree angle, but more of a 45 degrees downwards, so the exhaust is less likely to back up into cylinder 6.
What if I weld a flap inside the pipe to divert the flow down instead of against the other sides exhaust?
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Old May 14, 2013 | 07:03 AM
  #85  
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Originally Posted by Sas954unner
What if I weld a flap inside the pipe to divert the flow down instead of against the other sides exhaust?
That would work with the diversion, but it would also impede flow. It's best to just get a Y-pipe. I've seen them sold at auto parts stores too.
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Old May 14, 2013 | 07:13 AM
  #86  
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Originally Posted by NytWolf
That would work with the diversion, but it would also impede flow. It's best to just get a Y-pipe. I've seen them sold at auto parts stores too.
I welded this thing nice and tight to the block and it came out just like I wanted it theres no way I'm going to cut this thing all apart hunt down more mandrel bent pipe and a y connector when I could just cut a flap of metal and fit it in so it takes up no more than half the pipe.
Thanks for the heads up on that hot cylinder situation though!
Hopefully diverting the flow a bit will help
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Old May 15, 2013 | 02:08 AM
  #87  
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Originally Posted by NytWolf
Although not exactly the same design, that looks functionally too similar to the 3VZ crossover to me. Read that as a hot cylinder 6. In reality, I wouldn't know how well it would function, but I would prefer a Y-pipe joining the left and right cylinder banks at a lower location. Or at least angle the pipe coming from the passenger's side back more. That is, the joint shouldn't be at a 90 degree angle, but more of a 45 degrees downwards, so the exhaust is less likely to back up into cylinder 6.
Well after sleeping on it, I've decided you guys are right and I'd rather make this right before I get the engine in the truck so today I'm buying some more u bends and I'm going to start from scratch and make this next one Y together instead of T-Ing together. I'm stubborn as all hell but you guys are 110% right
And I can't deny it,
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Old May 15, 2013 | 07:00 AM
  #88  
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Just wanting to help out another Yotatech'er.
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Old May 30, 2013 | 03:55 AM
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Ok I finished up my wiring harness now it's back to fixing this damn crossover pipe so I can drop the engine in here is a side by side comparison of the first one I attempted and my new one I'm building
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Old May 30, 2013 | 03:39 PM
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Nice! Much better than the before pic.
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Old Jun 1, 2013 | 03:31 PM
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All done!
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Old Jun 1, 2013 | 04:21 PM
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From: Hudson valley-New York

Clearance
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Old Jun 1, 2013 | 04:23 PM
  #93  
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Another
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Old Jun 1, 2013 | 04:25 PM
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From: Hudson valley-New York
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Old Jun 1, 2013 | 04:33 PM
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Before and after
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Old Jun 1, 2013 | 04:35 PM
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Thanks guys for the advice! Definitely saved me alot of future headache by giving it a little more effort now. I appreciate the help!
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Old Aug 4, 2013 | 02:20 PM
  #97  
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Originally Posted by Sas954unner
Ok I finished up my wiring harness now it's back to fixing this damn crossover pipe so I can drop the engine in here is a side by side comparison of the first one I attempted and my new one I'm building
Much better!
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Old Aug 24, 2013 | 09:48 PM
  #98  
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Rayl82 called me up and told me the pipe or weld broke on the crossover pipe, decided easiest route was pull trans, do a clutch while it is out, and pull pipe from bottom.

drivers head, pipe just off manifold broke just past the weld.

welded it back together, you can see the new weld just above the old weld


added some support so it can't happen again


got to thinking that he put a doubler in awhile back, and I think the mount has too much flex, and it was flexing the exhaust too much, so I told him to chain the mount, and ad more hangers, just in case.

and a current shot of the truck
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Old Aug 24, 2013 | 09:49 PM
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whoops, looks like you will have to wait until the first to see the pictures, sorry.
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Old Aug 24, 2013 | 10:27 PM
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You need that flex joint between the heads, Some people have even been adding them just after the bend under the body...
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