G'day

Ive been looking on here for a while now through the various threads regarding the 3.4 swaps. I must say without the knowledge on here it would have been nearly impossible for me to do the swap.

I'm nearly there with my 3.4 swap now. Ive had the engine in for a few weeks now and have had everything connected up with the first turn of the key last weekend, now the fun begins.

When i go to start it, it cranks fine and fires up nicely but stalls immediatly. When this happens it smells really rich and the neddle on the tacho just drops dead from about 1800rpm.

A bit of back ground, i had the timing belt and water pump done while the engine was out of the bay by the local toyota dealer. Ive done the tacho mod (very easy to do, thanks again for the pics), i replaced the ignition leads and spark plugs.
I'm using a landcruiser prado ecu, wiring loom and sensors.
The car is a 91 4runner.

Ive been over and over my wiring and cant find anything that is the problem. Ive checked the continuity of all wires to the sensors. Done the checks for all the sensors as per toyota manual.
Ive used 2 different air flow meters, ignitors and co adjusters.
Ive done the diagnostic checks and at first i had 2 codes, 24 and 31, both of which are air flow meter related. After checking all the pins at the ecu and the meter itself the codes dont appear anymore, but the car still does the same thing.

I'm at my wits end with where to look now.

After changing various sensors and going over wiring diagrams i decided another diagnostic check was in order.

What it shows now is a flash 9 times with a a break of 2.5 seconds, i cant find anything that shows what this is.

These are the only things i can think of that could be the issue now, either the timing belt is not lined up correctly or maybe there is a vacuum leak that i cant detect. I did have to remove the intake manifold to change the wiring looms over on the engine so possibly something has gone a miss there.

Please help me out.

Cheers

 

G'day

just had a chat with a mate and he thinks that I should have connected the evap wire from the ecu to a vsv on the evap cannister.

Has anyone not connected this before?

Can someone please unplug there vsv and see if the car starts or does what I've discribed above.

Cheers

 

Hi pane,

Not sure what year the land cruiser ecu is from, but over here I believe all the 3.4's are obd-II compliant. The CEL flash trick doesn't work on these ecu's. It may be different down there. Did the ECU come with the motor?? what year is the motor, ecu?

Cheers!

-Chris

 

G'day

They dont have an obd-11 connector done here. They only have the diagnostic plug on the left hand side of the motor.

The motor is an 03 hilux engine. The loom and computer is from a 97 prado, the only difference between the hilux engine and the prado engine is an injector size change. Every other sensor is the same, they do use a different air flow meter but i have the right one for the prado ecu.

Cheers

 

hmm so I guess the obd-2 compliancy was only in the U.S?? Interesting. Another person on the forums just resolved his issue that sounds like yours by replacing his crank timing gear. It had a broken tooth on the crank position sensor gear. Perhaps yours has the same issue? Also the evap stuff won't cause the vehicle to stop running. It will just throw codes. I believe there are ppl on here that don't run any evap at all. Could be wrong here though..

 

G'day

Ive now tried 2 different ecu's and been over my wiring 3 times. All the engines sensors check out and its not throwing any codes. What the hell is going on??????

Can anyone suggest anything to try?

How do i check to see if the crank angle sensor has an issue if its not throwing codes.

Cheers

 

There is usually a way to check sensors and relays using a volt meter; I don't have the specific details but it should be covered in the factory service manual... if you can get hold of one.

Good luck!!
>>Dan

 

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/

Here for both of you

 

try to "hot wire" the fuel pump to make sure its not kicking out on you. If you run constant power to it and it runs. Then most likely its your "COR"
Otherwise it may may not be recieving a crank signal or cam signal for the ignition/ spark.

 

Gday

Is there a way of checking the crank angle sensor and cam other than the resistance and codes from the ecu? I ask cause I'm fairly sure that when it's dying it's from the ignition being cut.
Today when trying to sort it out I discovered the following

Of you try to start the car it will fire up and die after about 2 seconds. If you then try to crank the engine over again it will just crank and pump fuel out the exhaust. If you turn the key off completely and then try again it will fire the same as previous. I tried this 10 times and every time it did the same thing. So it would seam that the ignition is being cut by something and the ecu requires a reset to clear it.
Now it would seam logical that one of the crank or cam sensors is stuffed but it's not throwing codes and both sensors have the right resistance. Is it possible that they are still stuffed without showing up a problem?

Thanks for the help guys maybe I'm getting somewhere.

Cheers

 

G'day

Fuel is also not an issue, the pump and relay are working as they should. It's got heaps of fuel cause it smells really rich when it dies.

Cheers

 

Almost every time when someone has a problem such as yours, it relates to the MAF. I read that you said that you have exchanged it already. I would double check the the wires going into the plug and tight and in good shape. There have been guys that have had loose wires in the plugs for both the MAf and the ignitor. I would triple check them both!!

Also use a meter to trace back to the ECM to make sure the are intact along the way.

 

Also make sure your ignitor is properly grounded.

 

G'day

I've checked continuity between the maf/ignitor and the ecu. I pulled the pins on both plugs and tightened the little tags up. I've actually done this on all the sensors and every pin @ the ecu. Another bloke here in aus had the same problem and this was his fix, that's why I tried it first. Both the maf nag ignitor have power and earth when it stops. The ignitor is grounded well, I've sanded the paint from underneath the mounts and also used 2 ring terminals with wire going to a bolt that is also connected to the engines ground wires.

Cheers

 

This is from another forum. Guy has the same issue. I know you said you checked everything but I thought this was relevant.

This afternoon, we were checking the injector pulse. I had a LED light hooked up to the #1 injector plug and we were running it on ether again to verify the ignition was cutting out before the engine died. It ended up running for about 15 seconds and the computer "threw" a code.

P1300 Ignitor circuit malfunction

I have had the ignitor off quite a few times and did not think that it was the problem. So I started pulling the wires on the plug pretty hard and one came out of the pack of the plug. I jammed a T pin in the back of the connector and alligator clipped the broken wire to the T pin. My buddy tried to crank it and it fired up on the first try. We let it idle for 30 minutes and then drove it around the yard. It runs great. Now I need to redo the plug and she will be good as new.

What have we learned here?
If there is no code and the engine will run on ether, try and run it long enough for the computer to "throw" a code. That's propably not the best solution, but it works great in despairation.

Seriously,

Thanks for all the help. I spent about eighty hours over the past three weeks trying to figure it out.

 

G'day

I'll try to pull the pins again and see if they arn't tight enough.

Thus was posted on an aussie forum so i'll be checking it out aswell.

Ok thanks, that's the same setup that we have. A few thoughts here..First is routine services... the spark plugs on this engine need to be replaced about every 48,000km, do you know when this was last done? Also air filter and oil changes obviously. If the truck is hanging up and not wanting to run initially then my first thought to check here aside from the routine items would be the IAC valve, (idle air control valve) this component located on the throttle body controls engine idle speed and can cause stalling, high or low idle as well as extended crank time. TO address this you first need to properly clean out the throttle body and sometimes you can get lucky and "clean" the valve by soaking down the port for the valve insde the throttle body with intake cleaner and cycling the key a few times. THis valve can be tested with a dealers scan tool for normal operation as well but if it acts up it will not set codes or give any other means of indication for failure."

Cheers

 

G'day

Right so ive pulled the pins again on the ignitor and plugged it back in again. No change.

I unplugged the cam angle sensor and tried to start it. It did exactly the same thing as its been doing the whole time. I pulled the pins again on the plug and I plugged it back in and still the same.

I unplugged the isc valve and it still started and stalled straight away. The difference was that it didn't rev as high and sounded different. So i'm sort of assuming that its working as it should.

So, i need someone to unplug there cam angle sensor and tell me what happens.

Cheers

 

can you take a video of what its doing? And have you tried to hotwire the fuel pump so its always running? Just a thought.. Have you checked the coolant temp sender to ecu?

 

 

G'day

Well I still can't diagnose my problem.

I've been through all my sensors and I have all the right parts for the ecu I'm using.

So sometime over the next 2 days I'll post up my wiring harness what I've got going to what. I'll list the function and color on both the car and ecu wiring and then how they are connected.
Maybe some one can pick something up in what I've done.

Cheers