Another Adopted 3.4 Orphan Rehabilitation
#21
!!
Hey Gang,
Brief update:
-Corrected "Check Engine" light with 2 12.5 ohm/20 watt resistors (Really they are each comprised of 2 25 ohm 10 watt resistors that I wired in parallel; (Man, does one of them get hot! Melt your shoes hot...)
-Swapped transmission (Supposedly 170k) and rear diff./carrier (160k); pinion and ring looked pristine. Transmission ended up being a bit noisy, and the 3rd gear synchro is unhappy downshifting from 4th...
-Put Duratrac's on from the '80, excellent tire, but I now have wobbles at 65-75 mph.
-A local fellow, Matt from Washougal, fabbed up a set of sliders and a rear bumper. He is a very upright guy, and can build most anything you imagine. (PM me if you want details)
Brief update:
-Corrected "Check Engine" light with 2 12.5 ohm/20 watt resistors (Really they are each comprised of 2 25 ohm 10 watt resistors that I wired in parallel; (Man, does one of them get hot! Melt your shoes hot...)
-Swapped transmission (Supposedly 170k) and rear diff./carrier (160k); pinion and ring looked pristine. Transmission ended up being a bit noisy, and the 3rd gear synchro is unhappy downshifting from 4th...
-Put Duratrac's on from the '80, excellent tire, but I now have wobbles at 65-75 mph.
-A local fellow, Matt from Washougal, fabbed up a set of sliders and a rear bumper. He is a very upright guy, and can build most anything you imagine. (PM me if you want details)
#23
Hey Fraser, I ended up using two 25 Ohm 10 watt resistors with the end soldered together in parallel; yielding a 13 ohm/20 watt resistor for each set of 2.
I used these, since I was buying 6 of them.
I ended up using such high capacity, since I was burning trough resistors. That only seemed to happen when connecting the 13 ohm resistors to the white or the black wire from the ecu; the yellow doesn't heat up the resistors, and if you clear the codes only 1 Solenoid shift signal will not set off the check engine light.
I used a "Pro" Scan Tool from Harbor Fate to erase the codes, and it actually has been working quite well. You only need to connect 4 wires to the scan tool. I bought a OBDII Y-splitter to dismantle and wire in the glovebox as a permanent connector.
The HF scan tool was also great for watching the o2 sensor in real time, to see a sensor that was getting tired, but not past the ECU's tolerances.
I can take some pics if that helps as well, Oh the Adventure!
I used these, since I was buying 6 of them.
I ended up using such high capacity, since I was burning trough resistors. That only seemed to happen when connecting the 13 ohm resistors to the white or the black wire from the ecu; the yellow doesn't heat up the resistors, and if you clear the codes only 1 Solenoid shift signal will not set off the check engine light.
I used a "Pro" Scan Tool from Harbor Fate to erase the codes, and it actually has been working quite well. You only need to connect 4 wires to the scan tool. I bought a OBDII Y-splitter to dismantle and wire in the glovebox as a permanent connector.
The HF scan tool was also great for watching the o2 sensor in real time, to see a sensor that was getting tired, but not past the ECU's tolerances.
I can take some pics if that helps as well, Oh the Adventure!
#24
Yeah pics would be awesome. I still have the pigtails that are supposed to plug into the auto trans under the truck. I wonder if I could make a little plug containing the resistors to simply plug in right there...
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