I have read and searched , and noticed there is no info. for ADD wiring ?

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Lots of 3.4 swap variables. Wanna narrow that down a tad.

:wabbit2:

 

I have been putting this off too. Last good idea I had was a 2 position toggle switch to activate the appropriate VSV for ADD on, and ADD off. Right now I'm opening the hood and hooking up one vacuum hose for "disengaged" and hooking up the "engaged" one when I hit the trail.

 

exactly , but to get around that hastle, We have always done the IFS manual hub swap , and bypassed the vacuum assy , seemd like a no brainer ! and much better set up IMO . but some fellas have wired the vac switches to work with the stick and light . I have been reading but cant find any real refferance to how this is accomplished


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My swap isn't running yet (long, long story) but I "figured out" the ADD wiring a while back (at least in theory) for my swap, '91 3.0 M/T with ADD and a 96/97 3.4 M/T with ADD (no 2-4 select switch).

The absolute best advice I would give is to go through the EWD for your applications and eliminate all un-needed circuits (yes, redraw the schematic on paper).

For instance, redraw the 3.0 circuit but only include wires labeled 3VZ-E omit all the 22-RE lines, you'll notice it becomes a really simple circuit:


Then do the same thing for the 3.4 circuit:


Then its just a matter of what wires need to be spliced together and where:

(Sorry about the rotated photo, I'm having issues and whatever I do won't rotate it the correct way).

Again, this is what I did for my specific swap, and I'm not even sure if its correct yet.

 

Did it work????

 

Yes, that wiring works for my swap.

 

Sacrunner's got the right idea.

 

Sac runner I had been messing around with this for a while. Last night I tested the switch in the trans case with 12 volts and it works, when engaged to 4x4 test light come on when 2x4 test light turns off. I have a 3.4 swap in a 94 3.0 truck while a solid axle with manual hubs. So I don't have the ADD wiring up front any more but I still have the VSV valves that one has powe to at all times and the other never has power. If possible can I run a new circuit from the trans to the gauge cluster in order to get the light working? If so any suggestions? It is the only that doesn't work on the truck drives me crazy.