did you ever rule out the bumper ad winch blocking your airflow ????

 

Nope not yet, it's a PITA to take the bumper off.

 

If its like the ARB it can have something like 16+ bolts holding it on...

 

You know.....If you so much as put a winch on a heep,it'll run hot!Try taking that bumper off.What will you do if that fixes it?

 

well we probably will have to custom fab bumpers for our swapped trucks cause im right behind mt_goat as soon as i get a decent job down here in CO im going to throw the supercharger on my truck as well add everything that he has done and a few more anyway im watching to see what happens.

s


oh btw Mt_goat did you ever run your truck with out the supercharger??

why im wondering is ever since i did my swap i have NOOOOOO breaks when i have been accelerating and have to stop quickly, like accelerating from a light and someone stops in front of you nothing there. for aprox 2 sec or so. its like there is no vacumn or someting when im accelerating which seems wierd to me

almost as bad as the non existant breaks when the truck is off.

anyone else have these issue

 

Nope, the SC and URD injectors went on while the engine was on the stand.

My brakes work just like they did before the swap, did you connect the vac line correctly with the check valve the way it was before?

Toys, I'm not sure what I'd do if the bumper is the problem, but I've been running with that bumper and winch for years so I'm hopeful its not the problem.

At this point I'm looking at some different ways to increase the cooling capacity just incase. Of course these are going to be pricey but compared to what I've already thrown at this money pit not too bad.

One idea I've had is to install a bypass valve on the heater hoses and run them to a coolant to air heat exchanger of some type (probably either a big oil cooler or a very small radiator) placed under the truck possibly with an electric fan to increase air flow across the heat exchanger. This would be like running the heater all the time without dumping the heat into the cab. It would probably need a small pump to boost the pressure up for the extra pressure drop. Here's one little pump that looks promising for that application but I don't really know what kind of GPM flow the heater hoses normally take:
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...asp?RecId=4900

Another idea I've had is running dual radiators with a small secondary rad being a "T" off the main rad hoses. This may also need a secondary water pump to avoid a pressure drop on the main system. Here are a few options for that pump but the first one seems to be over-kill with enough flow to cool an entire V8 cooling system or more.
http://www.stewartcomponents.net/Mer...Code=ElectPump

This one seems closer to the right flow rate at about 21 GPM
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/elecpump.htm

What I haven't figure out yet how this secondary system could be shut off when the factory t-stat is closed....more design work is needed for this option.

I guess I'll try the factory radiator fan next, probably without any fan shroud first.

 

I Probably should go talk to ORS and see what they have to say about it.

i got to drop my crossover here soon i blew a exhaust gasket the other day inbetween the crossover and the header.

how did you guys center those gaskets while you mounted them???

 

You may want to try one of these:

http://www.daviescraig.com.au/main/display.asp

They work really well...

Great swap with all the details BTW...

 

Which product are you refering to? Your link just shows their home page.

 

I am referring to the Electric Water Pump.

http://www.daviescraig.com.au/main/display.asp?pid=47

They work really well. Fairly inexpensive.

 

A little update on the cooling system:

I installed the stock 3.4 mechanical fan (without a shroud) and went for a little test run. It was another 92 deg day and the coolant temps got up to 230 deg F running about 75mph. So if anything the e-fan works better than the mechanical fan, although its not really a fair comparison without a shroud. I'll be putting the e-fan back on.

I also installed an oil temp gauge and found what I had expected, some fairly high oil temps (260 deg F). Here's where the probe was installed:




I'll be installing a nice big oil cooler with a sandwich plate adapter (with a thermostat) between the oil filter this week.



That should also take some heat out of the coolant since the coolant cools the oil with the factory oil cooler.

I'll also be adding to the cooling capacity with a couple more large oil coolers under the truck and a pump to circulate the coolant from the heater hoses through these extra coolers. This will be like running with the heater on (when the pump is switched on), but the heat will be dumped under the truck instead of in the cab.

Here's the new coolers along side the radiator, it should be a fairly good increase in capacity.

 

Here's the pump (I found a deal on ebay with one of the coolers) 2nd hand but unused.



I flow tested it and got 2 gpm. But the nice thing is its a suction type pump that will suck fluid in as well as push it and it can push at a fairly high pressure (around 40-50 psi). The other pumps that I looked at were higher flow rates (like 4-7 gpm) but at very low pressure. I'd rather have a pump that can push the coolant though these coolers without worring about back pressure cutting my flow rate down to a trickle. And having the suction ability makes it so the pump doesn't have to be at the lowest spot in the system.

I also flow tested the coolant though the heater hoses and found it to be only about 1/2 gpm and that was at about 2500 rpms. So 2 gpm should be about 4 times the normal heater core circulation (plenty).

 

This is the air intake tube from a 3.0 V6. I've found a use for it funneling air up to my extra cooler but I need two of them.

Thanks

 

Got the oil cooler on:



The hose routing went a little closer to the exhaust than I wanted, so I'm making a heat shield for it.


The hose is a cotton covered 1/2" hydraulic hose rated to about 300 deg F and some ungodly pressure. It's very tough but not very flexable compaired to a plain rubber hose. My main concern is having the hoses routed so the engine can move without stressing the fittings on the cooler. I also (see page 5) have my engine mounts chained down to limit engine movement which should help.

Because of lack of space to work I test fit it all with the fittings loose and marked the clocking of the swivel fittings with a marker, then tighten every thing up off the truck:


Even had room for the bigger Taurus filter:




I forgot to fill the cooler with oil so I'm pumping oil into it before start-up so the engine doesn't go without oil for the extra seconds it takes to fill. The cooler and hoses held about 1/2 quart.

 

Thats a very nice cooler setup.

Ever thought about adding a dual filter kit with bypass?

 

my thought exactly


and mtgoat we need part numbers and a place to order that setup its sweet.

 

The sandwich plate adapter with thermostat was made by Mocal (part # OTSP1) Ordered from here:
http://www.batinc.net/mocal.htm

The cooler is an Earl's oil cooler (part # EAR22510) with the optional bracket (part # EAR1725) There are lots of places to buy Earls parts (like Summit Racing), but the cheapest I found was Barnett Perforance in Atlanta 800-533-1320. That cooler was biggest cooler I could fit in the spot I had avalable. They make lots of different sizes so measure the place you want to put a cooler and pick a size that fits. Don't forget to leave room for the fittings.

I would suggest installing a oil temp gauge first to see what temps you're running.

 

yep yep okay just wonder i thought that setup looked familar. thats pretty much the same stuff i was looking at when i was working on my swap. but i ran out of money before i got to that point. oh well hopefully soon i can finish with the tranny upgrade, supercharger, oil coolers, fuel cooler, power steering cooler, and elec fan.

 

Finally something worked to bring the temps down! After installing the 3 extra coolers I was able to bring the coolant temps down 15-20 deg and the oil temps came down 25-30 deg.

The test run today was in the hottest weather yet about 95 degs F and the coolant got up to a high of about 210 F at 75 miles per hour and the AC on all the way. (in town driving was around 190-200). I think I can live with that. The hottest oil temps were 230-235 F. Not sure if that's good enough or not, but I'm sure its better than the 260 I was hitting before. I can get more air flow to the oil cooler pretty easy by making a wind deflector for it, I'll probably do that but it will need to come off before going off-road. One more thing to add to the pre-trail duties (air down, disconnect sway bar, remove wind deflectors).

I tapped into the heater hoses before and after the cab with these "T"s I found at Lowes, bypassing the heater:


The line that would normally go into the heater core in the cab now also goes to this cooler:


I found this oil cooler scoop thingy on e-bay (the guy said it was from a Nascar racing team) but it appears to be brand new.





Here's the seller: http://stores.ebay.com/Chambers-Sportscards-Inc Winning bid was $32 plus shipping. This was my first time working with carbon fiber and its a dream to work with. Drills as easy as plastic but its stiffer than steel and very light weight. Drilling it makes a little pile of what looks like pencil lead shavings. It appears to be very strong with unbelieveable stiffness .

After that cooler the coolant goes to the pump:


At first I mounted the pump to the bottom of the cab floor but that was too loud so I had to remount it with a homemade bracket and bolt it to the frame (sharing 2 of the slider mounting bolts.) Its still pretty noisey at speeds below about 45 mph, but at highway speeds I can't even tell if its running or not. I guess that's ok because it reminds me to turn it off at slower speeds. I really only need it at highway speeds anyway with the possible exception being long very steep grades.


After the pump I put in the extra tranny cooler that I had removed earlier. I made a frame for it to help protect it from stressing.


I mounted it here:

After that 2nd cooler the line "T"s back into the line that normally goes from the cab to the engine.

 

Kind of unrelated, but what kind of sliders do you have?