I'm planning to do a 3.4 swap in my 95 manual 4x4 pickup (I am going to keep my rig a manual). I have read though several threads on the issue and have a couple of questions that I haven't seen asked or addressed. I apologize in advance if I've overlooked the topics, if that's the case, please post some links for me to read.

1. What is the preferred model/year 3.4 to swap with? (ORS has recommended, if I use a T100 motor, to go with a '98.)

2. What model year is the closest to a direct swap for a manual 4x4? (ie I'm under the impression that I need to use a 3.4 from a T100 to match up with my existing transfer case)

3. Is there a good source for donor vehicles/engines? (online auctions or other?)

4. I'm suprised I haven't read more about cutting out the factory hood scoop from a late '90's 4runner and integrating it into the existing hood for the swap vehicle. Has anyone gone that route? Seems like that would leave a sweet factory/professional look and avoid any lifts.

At this point I'm trying to determine the preferred swap set up for a manual and I'm developing a parts list. I would like to use mainly all new parts, however, if the cost of the swap is too outrageous for new I will default to trying to find a donor.
At this point I have a parts list if I come up with a "complete" 3.4 engine (Based on ORS suggested parts list if using one of their full kits). But if I go with a new ATK motor from gearheads (or other motor/vendor suggestions welcome) I haven't yet developed the parts list to get the bare longblock to "complete" engine status.

Any good feedback is appreciated.

 

Here are my two cents worth:

1.) The advantage to the T100 is that the dipstick is on the driverside so you don't have to mess with moving it. Any 3.4L from 95 to 99 has holes on both sides of the block but on 4runners and Tacos you have to move the dipstick plug and cap the old hole. Anything newer than 99 (when the T100 was no more) it has only a passenger side dipstick hole which means you have to drill the block.

2.) All the 3.4L blocks are the same and will bolt to your existing transmission. Check out this site for a good summary of the process.

3.) A lot of members like this site for auctions.

4.) Depending on what you are going for I'd look into a body lit. It's cheap and easy when you have the motor out. But you'll have to figure out what works best for you.

Check out the sites I listed and browse these forums for awhile and you'll get a good idea on what to expect.

 

Thanks for the input! I've been to Andrew's site and have it bookmarked, I'm sure I'll be visiting it again.

I'm not sure how much difference there is, if any, in engine components between vehicle models of the same 3.4 year (ie a '98 taco and T100). If there is, do you think it might make parts availability/accessibility easier in the future if I don't go with a T100?

 

That is beyond my technical prowess but I have a funny feeling that Toyota used as many of the same parts as possible from model to model. I know the AC is the same.

 

You'll be able to use any 3.4 from a manual transmission set-up, but the T-100 version already has the right oil pan, pick-up, and dipstick stuff on it. The problem will probably be in finding one, since the T-100 was not a huge seller, in the first place (and the MT versions are probably rarer, still).

Be sure to get the engine with the matching ECU, with all the bolt ons, as well (alt, AC, intake, ect.) Get the donor vehicle's VIN, too, if you can. That will make getting proper parts for it a little bit easier, down the road.

Member MorphiasX has the best 4Runner scooped hood that I've seen, so far. That is what I wanted to do with mine, but I didn't have any luck finding a hood that wasn't going to set me back a small fortune. I ended up grafting in an early 90's JDM Toyota Starlet scoop on mine (eBay score). I still have to do the finish work to it, to make it look good, but I like the way that it is turning out!

 

Are the 3.4's mated to an auto not setup to accept a pilot bushing in the crankshaft?

So the actual crankshaft on a auto/manual engine is different?

 

An auto will work, mechanically, but you'll run into all sorts of issues trying to use an auto ECU on a M/T. It would be far easier to find a M/T donor, so that you can avoid the added hassles. The wiring harnesses are different between the two, as well.

As to the pilot bearing situation, there have been rumours of some autos not being drilled for the bearing, but I have not encountered anyone who has actually run into this problem.

 

Personally, I don't understand why an auto would be preferred unless you're driving between LA and Orange County CA everyday. In my opinion manuals are more fun and out preform in heavy mud/snow situations.

On another note, after you've stripped out the parts needed from a donor, what's the best/most cost effective way to get rid of the donor? I've never delt with disposing of a vehicle before...

 

You can run an auto motor in a manual truck as long as you get the correct manual ECU... this works for 98's... ask ORS as they know for sure.

Greg

 

Anyone in California know, does an engine swap qualify as a "Specially Constructed Vehicle"? Any other 3.4 swap leagallities with the state that might be good to know before getting into it?

Thanks...

 

My 3.4 came from a 97 T100 auto and the pilot bearing hole was drilled in the crank.Even if it wasn't I would have put one of my many 3.0 cranks in it!
Bigblock

 

Your swap is just an engine change, not a Specially Constructed Vehicle.

http://www.bar.ca.gov/80_BARResource...e_Centers.html


As long as you have all emission devices for your engine based on the vehicle configuration of the ECU, everything is functional and a scanner shows no codes you are almost there. The engine itself is a no brainer and will pass.

What may trip you up is what I'm currently experiencing; exhaust configuration. Seems like some BAR stations don't care which side of the engine the exhaust exits, but others will not pass you unless it is on the same side as originally configured for the 3.4 engine. I've removed my "permanent system" and am having a cheap exhaust system made to run down the passnger side just so I can pass and get my sticker.

 

Not to hijack much, but how is that going for you, cadman?

 

I'll get the "phony exhaust" built this Saturday, then I'll make my 3rd attempt with the referee ASAP. I removed the front driveshaft to make room for the catalytic converter and need to cover everything with heat shielding. The OEM cat thats going in is huge and will be really close to everything.

By the way, there's an '88 4Runner in this issue of 4WD Toyota Owner magazine that the owner spent $3k to get his swap smog legal, so I don't feel so bad since I haven't spent that much. Hopefully the next post in my write-up will be a picture of the sticker.

 

Cadman:
As you mentioned in your previous post:
"What may trip you up is what I'm currently experiencing; exhaust configuration. Seems like some BAR stations don't care which side of the engine the exhaust exits, but others will not pass you unless it is on the same side as originally configured for the 3.4 engine. I've removed my "permanent system" and am having a cheap exhaust system made to run down the passnger side just so I can pass and get my sticker."

This is very surprising to me and doesn't seem legit on the BAR stations side. From what little that I've looked into this since your post, there is nothing on the BAR's website that supports there stance on making the exhaust exit on the same side as the original 3.4. Did they site any referrences to you? (For my own curiousity, I'd like to investigate this more)

All I could see was a description noting that you can't degrade the emissions control components; I don't see how a crossover effects the emissions at all.

Also, let me ask if you used "donor" parts (ie motor, fuel injection, ECU, etc) from a salvage vehicle, how does that work for regeristing the truck with "new engine"? Is there a form, similar to the one for registering a special constructed vehicle, where you indicate what parts your using and a receipt or proof of origin of the parts? Or does the BAR inspection cover all of that?

 

BAR's website only contains basic info for consumers, it does not contain all information that a licensed referee uses, and whenever you visit a ref they will not let you anywhere near their computers to see what is on the monitor. They use special software that us "civilians" do not have access to.

In both of my visits, my swap passed the functional & emissions tests with flying colors, so I cannot understand how my exhaust configuration changes anything. Unfortunately, I either make the changes or I can pay $3k and go to their test station and have their engineers test everything. The last option is still not a guarantee I would pass.

As far as parts go, my engine, transmission & most of the other parts came from a single donor vehicle I bought from a private party. The vehicle still had a normal title. Anything else I needed I bought OEM Toyota new and used except the first two cats.

The referee will hook up a scanner to the DLC and that will tell him what vehicle the ECU came from. From there he will know what you should have as far as emission devices. If you have any CARB legal aftermarket components you should have the stickers mounted near the device. If you don't, bring receipts and he might let you slide after he researchs the component.

 

Here is the definition of a Specially Constructed Vehicle:

http://dmv.ca.gov/pubs/vctop/d01/vc580.htm

 

Yeah I had read that before my post, I guess I may had been reading into it to much.
"(3) a vehicle reported for dismantling, as required by Section 5500 or 11520, which, when reconstructed, does not resemble the original make of the vehicle dismantled. A specially constructed vehicle is not a vehicle which has been repaired or restored to its original design by replacing parts."

I couldn't find anything on the dmv site for an engine swap, so I thought that it may qualify as an SCV post swap being that the state would claim it won't technically resembe the original make....That was before you directed me to the BAR site where they mention the engine swap.

I'm tempted to call the state on the exhaust pipe issue that you're having. It doesn't make any sense that the ref. would insist that it be routed down the pass. side. Furthermore, it seems that any of documentation or rules that the ref. is following to make his determination should be pubic record. Seems like if they are going to insist what side the exhaust exits on that it should be spelled out in their literature. That or explain how a crossover would negatively impact the emissions.

 

Part of my problem probably comes from the fact that there are three different smog programs in California and I live in the enhanced area. Click on the Zip Codes link and you'll find a map of the program area types:


http://dmv.ca.gov/vr/smogfaq.htm#BM2536

This weekend I managed to swap the ORS cross-over for the OEM one, without removing the engine, so tomorrow I'll get my exhaust work done and schedule another appointment with the ref.

I agree with you, BAR should be required to make public all information with regards to vehicle emissions requirements.

 

Cadman...did you get your rig smogged and accepted by the BAR?


Does anyone know if there are any upgrades that need to be done to the driveshaft, axles, etc. to the stock 3.0 rig if you drop a supercharged 3.4 in there? From what I've read, there is a pretty significant increase in torque and hp between the 3.0 and a supercharged 3.4.