I have a complete but totaled 2000 super chargered urd 275 hp set up Tacoma and plan on the swap into my 90 runner so I am looking for as much info as possible before pulling the 3.4.

Anyone with info please let me know where I can find it or send it to me and will I need the ors wiring harness? What about the oil dipstick move for the 3.0 oilpan? Anyone in Southern Maryland want to help out?

 

www.andrewzook.com
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...0&pagenumber=1
http://www.yotatech.com/f123/3-0l-3-...estions-50550/

Or you could try searching yourself. I know it would take a few minutes of your time and all...

 

I did the search here but got everything for 3.4 swap but the 3.4 swap info so thanks for your info and research time how much do I owe you for your time?

 

Be sure to read everything on Offroad Solutions Page. Lots of good info there!

 

I'd help, but I know nothing about 3.4 swap. Good Luck!!!

 

mt. goat: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...started-82145/
Elvota: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...4-swap-128285/
Yotaman: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f88/...4-swap-114151/

marge: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...4-swap-101174/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/3...-issues-45913/

Try PM'ing Willcipher, he has a supercharged 3.4 in his 88 and seems to be very helpful on the 3.4 swap.

The previously posted link on Pirate looks pretty good

Good luck, I used a couple of minutes on my midshift break to find this stuff...going back to work

 

[QUOTE=Try PM'ing Willcipher, he has a supercharged 3.4 in his 88 and seems to be very helpful on the 3.4 swap.

The previously posted link on Pirate looks pretty good

Good luck, I used a couple of minutes on my midshift break to find this stuff...going back to work[/QUOTE]

Aight, been a while since I offered any suggestions on this... so here goes-

You've got a nice platform to start with; not only do you have everything you need (entire donor truck) but also the S/C and URD stuff. I'm going to assume both the donor truck and your truck are 5spds. If one is an auto, that's going to complicate things. Regarding your question- Yes,you will need to relocate the dipstick; your 3.0 IFS oil pan won't work with the dipstick in the front. (It's also likely you will need to drill the block since your block is newer).

The basics-
You will use the 3.0 oil pan and pickup tube (pickup tube needs some modification on mounting legs) on the 3.4 block. You will need a 2wd T100 dipstick assembly; search around for part numbers. You will use your 3.0 motor mounts on the 3.4 block, install the 3.0 lower radiator neck and lower radiator hose with the 3.0 radiator. Use the 3.4 upper radiator hose. Use your existing R150 bellhousing and release bearing; keep the entire 3.4 clutch assembly (cover, disc, flywheel, pilot) intact as that's the one you'll be using. You will use the 3.4 starter. You can use your existing 3.0 A/C compressor and simply bolt it to the 3.4 A/C bracket (no need to even discharge it; simply hang it to the side with a bungee cord or coat hanger during the swap). You will need to swap the compressor pulley and clutch assembly from the 3.4 though. You can use your existing power steering hoses from the 3.0 pump on the 3.4 pump; you need to use the 3.4 banjo bolt and trim it down by like 1/4" IIRC; the 3.0 high pressure banjo is thinner the the 3.4. This will save you money but you lose the power steering idle up sensor attachment point; it signals the ECU to increase idle speed when the PS pump is loading the motor. You will need to modify your high pressure fuel line to correctly mate with the 3.4 fuel rail; I simply cut my 3.0 high pressure line a the right length and used a mid 90's Mazda 626 barbed 12mm banjo and stainless clamp for my swap. You need to extend the fuel return line from the left side to the right side. These are the basics off the top of my head. Nothing I've listed costs any real money except the dipstick parts.

Other things worth mentioning-
You need to move the battery to the left side. I used a late 80's Nissan Sentra battery tray with the stock truck battery hold down. The tray worked beautifully for me with a couple bolts through the bottom and shimmed with a couple fat washers to level it. I then extended the power feed to the stock fusebox with a loomed 100amp fused 4 Gauge run across the core support. Any audio shop will have these materials.
You will need to mount and plumb the 3.4 evap box somewhere; folks have supposedly used the 3.0 evap canister, I would stick with the 3.4 stuff though.

Now for the complicated and costly parts-
Wiring:
The wiring in and of itself is not expensive; maybe $50 worth of materials including the $10 a day Toyota site fee so you can download your diagrams (only need 1 day get what you need) Having the right materials is essential: Toyota EWD's for both your truck and the donor truck, a good soldering iron & solder, electrical tape, heat shrink, split loom, etc. Having a labeler or some labeling system is necessary; I used a thermal labeler for network installation labeling. I would avoid splicing with solderless crimp terminals and Scotch-Lock stuff on this project; those are ok for a temporary job (a trailer harness fix, etc.) but bulky when you're splicing a large bundle of wires, also not as dependable/reliable as solder)

Having the knowledge to do the wiring and be successful is priceless. If you're not savvy enough in this area, have it made for you. ORS does this as well as a couple other people, myself included. That's where the wiring gets expensive, when you pay to have it done. There are a few obvious points I'll make here- you need to add an OBDII port somewhere under the driver's dash, I used one from a Dodge stratus since they're all standard pinouts but you have the plug in the Taco already. You will need to add a pre-cat air fuel ratio sensor (yours is an 00' 01') and wiring; an appropriate mounting flange will need to be installed in the exhaust system. You will want to stick with the 3.4 power harness (2 gauge block ground and positive to starter) and simply attach it to your battery once installed on the left side. You will need to convert the tach signal by modifying your tach (search on this). I ended up building a converter using a transistor, zener diode and coil; the tach mod came out after I did my swap. Properly attaching the tach signal from the 5vz engine harness to the 3vz body harness under the dash should keep you from having A/C amplifier troubles, it worked fine for me anyways. Others seem to have had troubles getting their A/C to work after the swap. Cruise control. You could use either the 3vz or the 5vz, I used my original unit which mechanically attaches to the gas pedal so I didn't have to worry about it. You will have to figure something out if you want yours to work since yours is integrated unlike the early style. Search on this.

Exhaust:
I found the exhaust to be the hardest part. Others have had less trouble because they may have more fabrication experience or better access to fabricators than me. I made several attempts to get the exhaust to my liking I have redesigned it at least 3 times (mostly due to an undesireable exhaust tone) since I did the swap in 03'. I'm currently running a 3" 5.9L Dodge ram muffler with a 3" Walker race resonator and the sound is perfect; mellow, almost quiet at idle / light throttle, sounds like a 5.7 LS1 at full throttle
If you were just looking for a little better flow than stock, I would suggest the ORS crossover pipe since Mike has perfected it and it's priced reasonably for what it is. It will not do wonders with a supercharger though, I would suggest the Downey 3.4 headers and an entirely fabricated system to complement them. But that's just me.

I hope this helps. If you want additional info, there are quite a few people that have done this swap. Doing a google search will yield a wide variety of results. I would suggest doing lots of research and compiling a list of notes

 

i got nothing but how did you find such a sweet deal!!!

 

Just read through this; thought I would add the following:

Use the 3.0 fan and shroud; the 3.0 fan will set about a 1/4" to the left; I
ended up fudging the shroud slightly to avoid clearance issues. Of course if you're going electric, this is a moot point.

You will use the 3.0 oil pressure sending unit on the 3.4 block, it's tight but it will fit. I found a mid 80's Isuzu 2.3 Impulse sender extender works great.

You should use the 3.4 alternator and graft the plug from the 3.4 style regulator onto the 3.0 body harness. You can also swap the regulator from the 3.0 to the 3.4 alt. The 3 prong plugs are different- at least on the early 3.0's. I chose to graft the plug so I could swap out an alternator without any additional work. I had to trim the end of the alternator adjusting bracket off slightly as it wanted to hit the steering joint.

Additional notes about A/C-
I used the 3.4 compressor assembly and swapped the top cover (4 hex bolts and a rubber O-ring) with the 3.0 top cover so my stock 3.0 hoses would attach. I went this route because the freon was gone when I bought the truck and I wanted to use all the 3.4 accessories.

Note about the wiring-
If you mount the ECU in the glovebox or upside down and you don't mind the weird square firewall plug, you can avoid extending the engine wiring plugs and save a load of work. Then you can splice the body wiring plugs only and add some additional wiring for front A/F sensor, OBDII plug, etc.. I'm anal and opted to use the original round firewall plug plus I wanted the ECU mounted right side up so I extended and spliced nearly every wire in the harness. The end result is a factory installed appearance, and that's what I was going for.

Fuel pump-
The stock 3.0 pump is not going to adequately keep up with the SC'd/URD'd 3.4; you need to use a bigger pump. The stock 3.4 pump is physically smaller than the 3.0 pump bracket, as well as upgraded replacements. I didn't want to shim or trim the pump bracket so I ordered a Walbro 255 pump from Ebay intended for an 87-92 Supra Turbo as it's a direct fit in the fuel pump cradle for my 88 3.0 pump.

Fuel pump wiring-
You will need to rewire the fuel pump relay to trigger from the 5VZ ECU directly; the 3VZ fuel pump relay triggers via the MAF flapper switch which is obsolete in the swap.

Clutch hose bracket-
I modified the 3.0 clutch bracket on the pass cylinder head to fit in the same spot on the 3.4 with a little love from Mr. Vice and Dr. Hammer and an extended bolt and spacer.

Hood clearance-
You're going to have an issue with this. I would suggest a 1" body lift at minimum, others might chime in and have a better idea here. I didn't want any body lift at all but ended up using 1/2" lift because the supercharger wastegate actuator hit the back of the hood where it was impossible to cover with a scoop.

 

He never mentioned the cost

But having everything there is worth an awful lot; I didn't get the body harness or even the exhaust parts so I ended up up making lots of stuff.. I bought my engine, engine wiring harness and ECU from Ebay in 03'. The seller didn't include many parts (02 sensor, MAF and MAF housing, alternator, etc) and I had to scrounge around to find them.. I would've paid alot more for the whole package

 

Great writeup Will, I agree about not using the 5VZFE fuel pump as even it doesn't flow enough fuel to feed the blown 5VZFE. I used the Walbro 190 though as that's what URD recommends and it fit my 93 3VZE fuel pump bracket great. If his donor truck has a URD kit installed already he may have a Walbro 190 fuel pump sitting in the gas tank now.

I might just add.... be prepared for some possible cooling issues with the supercharged, URD modified, 275 HP 5VZFE in a truck with a radiator designed to cool 150 HP.

 

Maybe I'll get included on that list someday...

Ditto on most of the info- I was the same way; It seemed a bit clearer coming from fellow swappers than from the ORS site. This isn't a hard swap, as there is very little fabricating to do! Some of my variations or observances:

Exhaust: You can use Downey's 3.4 headers, and weld on some extensions if you want to free up a few more HP. It isn't hard- but it will be a few more steps than running the stock manifolds and a cross-over pipe. any decent exhaust shop can fab up the rest. Downey will sell you a set in Raw for around $310. I bought them that way because I knew I was going to have them Jet-Hot coated.

Fuel: Verify that you have a W190 pump in the donor truck, or get one- AT A MINIMUM. Be VERY carefull with the pump-to-chassis fuel line fitting; they are known to rust in place (along with all the other lines along the frame). Mine had rusted out, so I went with a larger fuel line all the way back using 10mm tube.

Harness routing: Like Will said, the harness isn't long enough to make it a smooth / hidden install. To solve this, I ran my harness through the firewall like Toyota did; I cut a 1.5" hole to run everything through, and slid the rubber boot down the harness. Mine looks like it came factory like that.

Battery:I used an ORS piece (fits in just fine) & tacked it in. For a hold down, some simple 3/4" aluminum strap bent up & over the battery was all it took. That sucker is in there tight! I also had to buy a factory battery / starting harness- ouch. You can tap into your harness there- at the factory alternator + 'box' on the left inner fender.

Radiator / fan: I am running a single electric fan w/o any issues. I made a shroud that encloses the fan & radiator. Like Dale has said, I'd suggest using this opportunity to upgrade your radiator. Cooling a supercharged heat machine is critical. To monitor temps, I tapped my gauge into the output(top) of the water neck of the upper hose. There's room in there- trust me. It will also keep it away from turning wrenches & whatnot.

I'll post more as I remember it. Good luck on your swap! You'll LOVE the results.

 

Why hasnt this been move the to 3.4 swap section??? Thats right we dont have one.

Question: Is it possible to leave the 3.4 motor mount brackets on the block and just use the 3.0 motor mount rubber bushings and metal bracket for the rubber bushings to attach to the 3.4 brackets on the block or does everything for the motor mounts have to be from the 3.0 I read wilciphers post above but I was just wondering if this was a possiblity because it was alittle vague. ORS recommends using everything from the 3.0 to mount the 3.4 but you have to do some triming on the brackets that attach to the block. Besides the brackets on the 3.4 block seem stronger. Thanks guys Im sorry to hijack

 

LOL nope we dont. just a swap section would be nice doesnt even have to be a 3.4 swap section.

Ill go over willciphers posts later when have time and add anything i did differntly.

 

Mt Goat,

FWIW, I have been running my S/C'd 7th injector'd 275 + hp motor for 4 years now and, barring the time I blew it up 2 years ago (at wide open throttle, top speed, and leaning it out at fuel cut- melted 2 pistons) and the time I rolled it last year, I haven't had any cooling issues whatsoever. But I'm also running a 5 spd with no obstructions to the radiator and I have honestly never measured the temps to see where it's running. For all I know, it may be a little higher than it should but it's never given me trouble, even with A/C blasting and idling in traffic for 4 years now. In light of your temp troubles, I have already purchased and will be installing an Autometer temp gauge to get a better idea of where my temps are. I've got the gauge, just need to mount the sender. I would like to read the temps with my OBD scanner, but it's on my laptop and it needs a battery. I've tried using an inverter but my laptop doesn't agree with it. Damn battery is $75 and only seems to last a year or 2 at best.

BAMF CT2004-

The 3.4 mounts are physically too long (difference in framerails or something) and the rubber isolator part of the mount is matched to the 3.4 bracket IIRC, the little alignment nub to center bolt distance is different than the 3.0. I found the 3.4 brackets and insulators to be useless for the swap.

I agree, there should be a swap section sticky where people can share info. I did mine in 03 and had only seen one (in person at ORS) before attempting mine. Mike was helpful but it's also his business, I didn't ask him many questions other than the basics- what motor mounts, clutch, oil pan to use. I figured the rest out on my own because I wasn't planning to buy any swap parts from him. Kind of a courtesy thing.. He's a great guy and does meticulous work. I did have him do a crossover steering on my 85 back in 2002 and the welds were beautiful, workmanship was excellent.

 

one Of The Officers I Work With Got Hit And Rolled So I Pay The Insurance Settlement Of 3000 For A Totaled Truck And I Get The Whole Thing. Thinking About Useing The Bed As A Trailer Then Figure Out What Do Do With The Rest Of The Front Half. Also Thinking About Useing The Rear Axle With The E-locker On My Runner. ALSO BOTH ARE 5SPEEDS MIGHT USE THAT TOO THEN IT WILL BE LIKE A NEW TRUCK.

 

In my case, the motor mount brackets were different ('02 donor, '90 recipient), and I had to transfer my 3.0 brackets to the 3.4. I did have to do some grinding on my passenger side bracket to fit the 3.4 A/C compressor bolt, and to clear the block coolant drain. The reason for the grinding at the A/C bolt is that the 3.0 brackets were cast, and thicker than the 3.4 stamped metal brackets, and the bracket is sandwiched between the block and the compressor.

I had the ORS harness to save time, as I was doing my conversion outside as winter set in. I mounted my ECU sideways in the passenger kick panel location, as this was the only way it would fit there, and it also allowed me to route the engine harness wires through the stock location in the firewall. I expanded the stock harness hole, and used the 3.4 engine harness bellows in that location.

http://inlinethumb05.webshots.com/27...600x600Q85.jpg

I did use my 3.0 evap system, because the '02 Taco had most of that stuff on top of the fuel tank, and it was already buried under a snow bank by the time I needed that stuff! The battery got mounted on the ORS shelf, and I bent the Taco hold down a little bit to secure the battery in place, using a factory bolt hole in the front support.

I also went with a whole donor truck, and I do believe that it made my life A LOT easier in doing my conversion. My trials and tribulations are detailed here:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...warning-93642/

 

i didn't mean cost i mean finding such a sweet complete package

 

Wow that's a great deal!

 

I'd be very interested in what your temps are.