So I posted a thread about a month ago (https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160...-stock-218181/) about a clutch issue.

Today I bolted the tranny back to the motor and the truck moves under its own power! Hurray... the problem now is that it seems the clutch still isn't gripping fully. I was thinking it might be a slave cylinder issue.

I have searched and the Andy Zook link says to use the 3.0L slave cylinder, is anyone running a 3.4L slave?

Thanks again guys!

 

you will want to use the 3.0. I don't think you can swap them from either side. They are machined specific to the 3.4 being on the driver side. and the machining for the 3.0 being on the passenger. Is there any air in the lines? did you use the 3.0 throwout bearing? clutch fork in the correct spot on the throwout bearing?

 

before you start overthinking, this is how i'm running mine- 3.4 flywheel,clutch disk, pressure plate, pilot bearing with the 3.0 throwout bearing.
All the other drive train components stayed the same from the 3.0 truck. I did replace the slave and master cylinders but that was with oem 3.0 stuff.

 

you cannot interchange the slaves from 3.0 to 3.4.

Match the slave to your tranny.

You can however use either clutch master for either setup. I am using a stock 92 master, taco slave, all taco clutch components and taco tranny.

Will change to the 3.0 R150 with what Vital mentioned and will NOT be able to reuse the slave from the Taco.

 

Thanks for the input guys. I am at a complete loss right now.
I realized once I got back under the truck that the 3.4 slave would be impossible.
I am running all of the 3.4 clutch components (they came attached to engine).
I am using the 3.0 throwout bearing. I hooked it all up today and drove it around a bit, however I could tell the clutch wasn't fully gripping.

I am going to take the 3.4 clutch off on monday and put the Marlin Crawler 3.0 HD clutch on and hope it all works out. This is becoming a real PITA!!

 

Personally I would leave everything that you have. Just change the slave and it should be OK.

 

I have a brand new 3.0 slave hooked up right now. It seems something is just an 1/8th or 1/4 of an inch out of whack. It doesn't make any sense to me since everything is hooked up the way it should be, no random parts missing, nothing is frankenstiened together.

 

are you sure it is bled good? I have always heard to reverse bleed a clutch system.

take a look at these.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uj1dMdYgRK4

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8pZHTeLS4ik

 

It sounds like the clutch is engaging? but not fully and is slipping under power?

I'm just going to throw a few thing out there that might be helpful.

1. Do you have the stiffener plate installed between the motor and trans? (this is the thin piece of steel that spaces out the trans from the engine).
2. Did you inspect/grease the input shaft of the trans before putting it back together?
3. Did you inspect/replace the pilot bearing on the motor?
4. Was the finger tolerance on the clutch pressure plate within specs?
5. Are you using the 3.4 flywheel and pressure plate/disk setup? If so were they all from a previous known good running situation?

Just to address number 5 a little clearer. If you are running a flexplate that was not re-surfaced (cut) with a used pressure plate/disk that was not mated to that flywheel before, you will have a break-in period before you are getting full friction from the setup. The same thing happens when you change brake pads without changing/cutting the rotors on brakes.

6. Are you smelling "burning clutch"?

 

theMonch,
1. Yes, stiffener plate was installed
2. Input shaft was not greased
3. Pilot bearing seemed ok.
4. I did not check the finger tolerance on the pressure plate. I am not sure what they are
5. Yes, all 3.4 parts except the MC 3.0 throwout bearing

Today i backed off the tranny bolts about 1/4 inch and the clutch hooks up fine. It seems the throwout bearing is about 1/4 inch to long, or the pressure plate is a 1/4inch too thick. We are currently machining the T.O bearing down a few mm.

 

That is very peculiar. I can't imagine what could be going on there.

I had the Toy Dealer guy order the two available 3.0 throw out bearings that were on the system so I could inspect them to see which one mine had previously, and they were both exactly the same. The only thing I can think is the TOB is not actually from a 3.0., or is from aftermarket manufacturer that did not manufacture to specs.

Take a few picts of it while it's out if you can. I'll compare it to the used 3.0 I have.

 

The throwout bearing I have in my truck is from the Marlin Crawler HD Clutch kit for a 3.0L. The specs are the exact same as stock, just a different style. I bought another bearing and they are exactly the same length. So we ground down the flange on the MC bearing about 7mm (sorry, no pics).This gave the clearance that we needed for the clutch to engage/disengage properly. For all intents and purposes the swap is DONE!! Just a few loose ends to tie up (tach mod, ADD vacuum line, cruise control, A/C, etc).

 

Cool, well congrats. I guess if it's working for you. It just baffles me why it would have been different from everyone else that has gotten the 3.0 TOB to work without modification.

 

It baffled my buddy and I for the past 2 months. He said TOB from the start but I insisted that NO ONE has ever had this issue. We have concluded (most likely incorrectly) that the canadian models maybe have a different flywheel thickness? We really don't know but it makes us feel better.