3.0L Power loss when Check Engine Light comes on
08-16-2015, 06:22 PM
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3.0L Power loss when Check Engine Light comes on
Hi Yotatech fam, i need some help please,
I have a 93 3.0L SR5 that runs great but then loses power, not rough or choppy, but bogs down when i accelerate the moment the check engine light comes on :/ may just be me but it feels like fuel mix becomes super rich, bc when i let off the pedal it gains a hair bit more power, this week's forecast is rain and i thought i'd check with you guys before i get too wet trying to pull a code, thanks in advance!!!
-Just had headgasket changed by a good friend
-2nd engine with unknown miles (this one from 4runner)
-Check engine light has been on between both engines with no noticable probs before headgasket change
-already tried to trick the EGR with a 10k resistor
-check engine light stays off longer when engine is completely cold
-warm engine temp is consistently just under halfway
-idles smooth before and after engine check light
I have a 93 3.0L SR5 that runs great but then loses power, not rough or choppy, but bogs down when i accelerate the moment the check engine light comes on :/ may just be me but it feels like fuel mix becomes super rich, bc when i let off the pedal it gains a hair bit more power, this week's forecast is rain and i thought i'd check with you guys before i get too wet trying to pull a code, thanks in advance!!!
-Just had headgasket changed by a good friend
-2nd engine with unknown miles (this one from 4runner)
-Check engine light has been on between both engines with no noticable probs before headgasket change
-already tried to trick the EGR with a 10k resistor
-check engine light stays off longer when engine is completely cold
-warm engine temp is consistently just under halfway
-idles smooth before and after engine check light
08-17-2015, 07:55 AM
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phew caught a break in the rain last night! i pulled a code 52, knock sensor, i'm gonna check the sensor and the wires after work, just curious, are T100 3.0's known to have knocking issues when everything including timing is correct? or haha am i most likely dealing with removing the whole intake manifold to change a wire/sensor? thanks for the quick reply last night!
08-17-2015, 12:02 PM
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I don't think that code 52 is an actual indication that the engine is knocking.
Code 52 indicates that the ECU is not receiving any signal from the knock sensor.
In order to protect the engine from potential damage from excessive spark knock,
the ECU then retards the ignition timing, and may also richen the fuel mixture.
Sounds like your symptoms.
The knock sensor and its leads are the place to look.
The fact that your trouble is intermittant might seem to point to the leads, rather than the
piezo-electric sensor itself. Maybe checking and cleaning any wire connecting points that you might be able to touch will fix it, otherwise, it may well be intake removal time.
You might well check the valve adjustments while you are that far into the top of the engine.
Code 52 indicates that the ECU is not receiving any signal from the knock sensor.
In order to protect the engine from potential damage from excessive spark knock,
the ECU then retards the ignition timing, and may also richen the fuel mixture.
Sounds like your symptoms.
The knock sensor and its leads are the place to look.
The fact that your trouble is intermittant might seem to point to the leads, rather than the
piezo-electric sensor itself. Maybe checking and cleaning any wire connecting points that you might be able to touch will fix it, otherwise, it may well be intake removal time.
You might well check the valve adjustments while you are that far into the top of the engine.
Last edited by millball; 08-17-2015 at 12:10 PM.
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