Hey guys, been researching for the last couple months or so on how to wire this swap and I finally bit the bullet and bought an engine for it out of a 1999 4runner auto (with 76,000 miles ). The wiring harness is going to be included.

Now correct me if I'm wrong, but it looks like I just need to get a MT ECM from a 1999 4runner and it will plug directly into the auto harness, as there is no difference in the pin outs between the ECM's (only one listed in the pinout chart).

Also, I have all the dash connectors minus the diagnostic port. There is a 4runner in the junkyard I can get it from, but for the life of me I cannot find that darn thing under the dash. Where exactly is it located?

Thanks!

 

I can assure that nothing about a 3.4 swap is plug and play except bolting in the motor.

:wabbit2:

 

lol, I understand that; mating the dash harness with the ecm is a whole other can of worms. But from the looks of the ecu pin outs in the FSM, the engine harness looks to be the same for MT and AT minus a few pins. There's only one set of connectors listed for the 99 ECM anyways (unlike the 96-97 FSM's which differentiate between AT and MT models).

On a side note, are there any other sources for an 88 V6 EWD's. I called the main Toyota distribution center (the 1800 number) and they redirected me to a helm inc. who said that they are out of stock . I have the FSM, but it only covers the 4 cylinder.

 

/99 is specific .. this is the engine I used in my trekker .. it is not the same as the earlier engines . you will absolutly need the OE wire diagrams


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slacker, that trekker is sick. I've found some pretty useful stuff relating to the 88 harness in the link below (thanks theMonch for that) but I'd still like to get my hands on a factory 88 EWD Manual. http://66.95.100.204/test/5VZFE%20sw...(theMonch).pdf

 

X2 and I'd suggest getting the wiring diagrams for any swap as they make troubleshooting much easier even with a purchased harness/pigtail not everything is always right

:wabbit2:

 

So I spent the last couple of hours making a spreadsheet from the 99 4runner EWD's that has all of the ECM connectors "pinned out". This has helped immensely in clearing up what is involved with the conversion harness, but I am still a little fuzzy on the difference between the auto and manual harness.

I am planning to get a 99 4runner MT ECM and use it with a modified auto harness that I am getting with the doner. It looks as if most if not all of the critical engine components are the same between the MT and AT, barring some things from the AC and 4WD. Is it just wishful thinking to believe that "most" everything relating to the ECT can be de-pinned from the harness and I'd be good to go? Or do I need to abandon this pipe dream and buy a MT harness?

Also, in dealing with the immobilizer and theft deterrent system, are there any things that I need to be aware of?

Thanks so much for the help guys, I want to get all of this cleared up before I snip my first wire.

 

I had a manual harness , so cant answer to the Auto . I also used the whole dash harness and body computer , just eliminating the immobilizer and theft deterrent system , as well as mirrrors and seats and such .. so i dont think i can help you there either


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slacker, you wouldn't happen to have a pin out made up of the manual harness would you? It'd be nice to be able to compare it to the auto harness to see what is there and what is not.

 

alright, took the weekend and got almost everything done to the engine that I needed to (timing belt, seals, etc.). I got my ecu and wiring harness in the mail, the ECU is great (MT, 4x4, no anti theft), but the wiring harness only has two of the five ecu plugs on it and two other plugs that I cannot identify. One of the plugs (E11) that is missing deals entirely with the anti theft system, so I'm assuming that comes from the dash harness and will not be needed with my swap.


Here are plugs E9 and E10

Here are the only other plugs on the ecu side of the harness. I've looked through the EWD's and cannot find them anywhere. Is there a pigtail or something that I need to go with these?

I take it E12 and E14 are on the dash harness or somehow pigtail off these unknown connectors?

If I do another one of these swaps in the future, I WILL BE BUYING AN ENTIRE DONER VEHICLE. Anyways, thanks for the help guys!

 

On my 98 there are 4 connectors from the wiring harness that plug directly in to the computer. One on the furthest right (when looking at the computer label- E12 in my case) is not part of the main engine harness. That one gets tied into the body harness of your recipient. Those 2 in the last pic look like body harness connectors that come off the engine harness that go to the doner body harness. They will get unpinned and repinned in your existing body harness connectors. Good luck to ya- you're in for a great learning experience

 

In the EWD from TIS, its under ...\Power Source\Electrical Wiring Routing\connecto.pdf (at least it was for the 96 and 97 4Runner EWDs I downloaded). For my 96 donor, they were called "II1" and "II3" though I'm sure they'll have a different name for your 99.

The PDF shows the routing of the various harnesses and their connectors throughout the chassis.

 

Awesome, thanks guys! I have those plugs mapped out now. This leads me to another, and hopefully last wiring question. There are only two plugs coming from the engine harness that plug into the ecu (E9 and E10). I need the plugs E12 and E14. After acquiring these plugs do I just unpin II3 and II2 and re-pin them into E12 and E14 along with my needed body harness pins?

Thanks for all of the help!

 

Was one of your engine connectors cut? Should have 3 that plug into ECU untouched. The 4th plug, the E12 ECU plug comes off the body harness. At least for my '98.

 

Harness is intact. The lack of a third plug was why I was thinking there was a pigtail or something that came from the dash harness and went on the II2 or II3 plug that had either e11 or e12 on it.

Again, having a doner 4runner would be nice just for reference's sake!

 

I am just about finished with my swap. If you ever need a hand wrenching or want to check out my 4runner, give me a holler. I've probably seen you around campus since I'm a civil.

 

Got everything in, hooked up, and wired...turned the key for the first time...and it runs! Its a little rough because of air leaks , but nonetheless it fired right up. Here are some things I learned along the way will hopefully help others out.

-T100 oil pan into IFS is a no go, hits on the front diff (not sure if it is from a 4wd or 2wd, take a look at the pic below). Had to put the 3.0 oil pan on. Use the dipstick from the T100, as the 3.0 one is too short. I didn't have to modify the baffle or the pickup, they just bolted right up.


-3.4 Flywheel will work with 3.0 starter. If I had to do it all over again, I would find a way to put the starter on the engine before it is in the truck, as it is a pita once the engine is in!!!

-A stock front brake hose can be used to replace the clutch soft line in the engine bay. Its a tad bit longer, but causes no problems. Mounts in the same place as well.

-Mount the air box after the engine is in. I did it before and am now having trouble with the stock 3.4 intake. On another note, a 3.25 in. hole saw will cut a hole in the fender to accommodate the 3.4 intake tube.

-3.4 flywheel bolt part number is 9010510138. Order 8 from http://www.toyotapartsales.com and they are $1.31 each. Don't install the spacers from the torque plate as they are not needed. Torque flywheel bolts to 63 ft.lbs with locktight.

-88 4runner radiator will not work unless you modify the inlet of it (it makes a sharp turn towards the passenger fender). I ordered a radiator for a 94 4runner. It fits in all of the mounting holes and the inlet allows for the stock 3.4 upper radiator hose to be used.

-Stock fan and fan clutch bolts right up to the 3.4

-Auto harness will work with manual ecu! I got a 2wd auto harness from a 99 4runner and after splicing in the reverse wires and eliminating some of the unnecessary plugs it functions as it should. Plug II1 is not used at all with standard transmission (at least in 99).

-I found my ecu plugs on a 99 camry in the local picknpull. This leads me to believe that almost any toyota matching your ecu's year will have the proper ecu plugs (minus the corolla in my case). A bonus of this is that the plug will have pins with it unlike ones bought from the dealership.

-Last but not least, make your conversion harness fairly long. There is not much room for play with the engine harness (out of a 99 4runner), so your conversion harness can help compensate for that if you make it long enough.

Thanks for all the help guys, couldn't have done it without Yotatech . Hopefully the consolidated tidbits above will save others some time. Also, I have the pin outs from my swap done in Excel as well as the EWD's for an 88 and 99 4runner. If anyone needs these, let me know. Photos to come soon!

Edit: I just replaced the fuel filter and double checked/replaced all the vacuum lines and she idles like a champ now. Just need an exhaust and body lift now.

 

Sooner than later, here's some pics


Here's how the project was financed, 1994 4runner 4x4.

Not bad for $450.00.

Before

After

And it runs. Took it to the exhaust shop the next day and got a Flowmaster 40 series put on it along with a new cat and 2.25 piping all the way through. Muffler guy was able to tuck it in pretty tight under there. Can't even see it due to the frame rails!

 

So rather than start a new thread, I'll just put this here.

I have some questions regarding my AC system that aren't wiring related. As you all know the 1988 4runner came with r12 from the factory and the 3.4 came with R154a. Before I try and charge this system, is there anything else I need to change out to get it working correctly. I am using the compressor from the 3.4, but the rest of the system is set up for R12.

From what I've read, I need:
Drier
Expansion valve
r154a o-rings

I am planning on taking it to someone once I get the system set up properly.

 

I've bought several "conversion kits" from WalMart that had the fittings to convert R12 to R134a. They worked just fine. I would change out the dryer if you are so inclined while it's apart. They've always blown ice cold even without the dryer change.