This is probably a silly question, but do I need to worry about bearing preload if I'm just repacking the bearings with grease? If not, what would I have to be doing ( i.e. bearing replacement, rebuild) where I would have to be concerned with setting preload?
The hubs on my 89 are manual Aisins. Thanks!

 

No preload, but there is a tourque setting. I don't have that info at my fingures, though.

 

You're talking about torqueing the bolts back down, correct?
I've read something about torqueing them down, loosening them, spinning the hub, torqueing them to 20ft. lb., etc. Do I need to do this or torque everything once.

BTW, the torque values I have are: the hub body bolts (ones w/ cone washers) are 23 ftlb, the bolt with washer is 13 ftlb., and the cover mounting bolts are 7 ftlb. Does this sound about right?
Thanks for your help?

 

These are the pages on repacking the front hubs out of the Haynes Manual.

Best $10 I spent on each of our vehicles.

Page 1
Page 2

 

i tourqued down my manual hub and i broke the head off the bolt. that was at 13 ft/lbs, i just do it till it gets tight/ snugg, it was a PITA to get the broken bolt out!

 

Thanks, Farmerj. I have a Haynes manual, but I didn't even think about checking there. Usually, everything I look up in it doesn't pertain to my year model or isn't in the manual. I guess I just need to break down and buy the FSM for my year.
From what I read the preload will have to be checked. This whole repacking thing might take a little longer than I expected

 

if you are just taking the hubs off you shouldnt even get to the wheel bearings, or at least not on a solid axle. its been awhile since i took an IFS front end apart so ignore this if i'm just confused or if you did more than just take the hubs off.

edit: guess i should read more carefully. you re-packed the wheel bearings, not just take off the hubs. If you ever touch the parts that set the pre-load on the bearings you will always need to reset them. Bearing pre-load is determined by the force needed to spin the hub without the wheel on it, its much different from torque specs on a bolt. Get a fish scale to test the pull resistance, you measure from the lug nut stud if im not mistaken. I dont remember what the resistance should be, i always have to look it up. It should be on the order of 10-12 lbs though. good luck

 

I haven't repacked them, yet. I was just thinking I should since I'm getting ready to do my pads. I don't know if they've ever been done. I bought the truck at 119k miles and I'm at 150k now. I just wanted to go ahead and do them for prevention sake and since I went through several deep water crossings this year during turkey season.
My truck is IFS. What parts are the ones that set preload? The writeup in the Haynes manual is pretty good. I just don't know if I'm experienced enough with this sort of thing to do it myself.
Jared, thanks for the info about breaking your bolt. I'll try dropping the torque setting down to between 11 and 12 and judge the snugness at that point.

 

better than adjusting the torque is to buy all new bolts, wont cost you more than a few bucks and it well worth the headache of shearing a bolt shaft inside its threads, I made that mistake once and went out and bought all new hub hardware the same afternoon.


On my solid axle truck theres a pair large nuts (54 mm, and please keep the giggles to a minumum children ) that thread down onto the bearings. By tightening the first 54 mm nut you increase the preload, ie make the whole assembly slightly more difficult to turn, which is what you want so the bearings dont wobble. The second nut tightens down ontop to keep the first in place, then theres a disposable ring that you bend in place as the end all insurance they wont loosen.

Heres a picture to show the parts, I dont promise yours will be the 100% exactly same but i'd imagine this helps you get the idea of whats going on. I've never done it on an IFS truck. I did the SAS before i got that into doing maintinence myself. The outer end of your CV shaft will be going through all these parts. Maybe an IFS guy that knows about this will chime in to confirm this stuff.

 

It's not hard, just detailed.....

The big thing is to figure out where your seal frag is at and then go 6-12 lbs of force over that.

Using a 54 MM socket or in a pinch a 2 1/8" socket will work. As a last resort, use a hammer and punch but pay close attention to your drag on the scale.


The 3 most important tools I have found for doing front ends are the hub socket, torque wrench and a bearing packer. Just trying to find a decent 54 MM socket now. No one in town seems to have one or be willing to order.

The FSM would definitely be a better resource, I just haven't found a decent source for it yet. Someone had posted the number here for it, but I can't find it anymore.

 

Thanks for the info, Jeremy. I think I get what you're saying about the first and second nuts. I guess it fits in with the tightening and retightening sequence explained in the Haynes. I'll have to pull out my manual and reread it, though, but I think I understand it a little better now. If I get this correctly, you tighten the first nut down all the way and then loosen it, set the preload, and then tighten the second nut down on top of it. I'm sure there are a few steps in between, but I think that's the general idea from what you're saying and what I've read. Thanks again!

 

I'll keep an eye out for the 54mm socket and if I find one I'll grab a spare for you. If I find the FSM part number I'll post that, too. Thanks for the help guys!

 

54 MM socket

OTC 6612

http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/otc6612.html

Just gotta get more tools to order to make it worth the shipping is all....

OTC is Owatonna Tool Corp out of Owatonna MN.

 

I think the part # for the FSM is: 00411-36246A . It 's the part # for the 85 with the 22re, but it might work.
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