All right I need to get my brakes completely done. I changed the pads last year all the way around and now they are getting bad again, read shaking, since I never did anything to the rotors or the drums. Anyhow I got an over the phone estimate from a place I "trust" and this is what they said. Some Toyota trucks when replacing or turning the front rotors you have to take the whole wheel assembly apart in order to get the rotors off. So he said that I need to bring it in and he can let me know. Well the price difference is $100 or $300 just for the front depending on what he sees. Well, I am not that stupid so is what he telling me correct and if so how do I tell which setup I have? Or is he feeding me a line of cow patties. Just so the lazy ones don't have to read my sig I am talking about my 1993 Toy P/U 4wd SR5 ext cab and I have the ADD (automatic disconecting differential) with a V6, manual tranny and 4.56 gears stock. I think that would be all you would need to let me know, but if not let me know what you need and I will post it. Thanks.

 

You have to remove the hub/rotor. There is nothing to it and it's certainly not worth paying someone $300. All you need is a 2 1/8" socket. I just did this two weeks ago. Total cost for getting my rotors turned - 16 bucks. You'll need a couple of small bolts (not sure what size) to remove the hub cover. Just screw 'em in to the two threaded holes in the cover and they will push the cover off. Then use the 2 1/8" socket to remove the hub bolt. Remove the caliper and the hub/rotor will slide right off. Repack your bearings while you're at it. And get yourself some decent ceramic brake pads mmmmkay?

 

How about buying a FSM, some tools, ordering the parts, and doing it yourself - all for less than a shop would do it?

 

I am all about doing it myself I just want it done right. With this guy telling me this and not knowing I was getting confused. Doesn't sound that bad. What tools, parts, and what is a FSM should I get or have? Thanks for the help. I don't want to pay $300 and if I don't it means more money for important things.

 

a FSM is a factory service manual... you can usually find them on ebay pretty readily... i actually went to the dealership and ordered one for my truck... it was like $100

 

If you want a free factory manual send me an email address I have one in pdf format. It's for a 95 but everything matches my 93. And like the other guys said doing front brakes isn't all that hard.

 

All right I will admit it I had a major brain fart. I have a FSM in fact I now have two since I "lost" the first one and found it right after I bought the second one. Anyhow, thanks for the offer eric and thanks for the info on the brakes guys

 

Find a dealership with an on-board brake lathe. I did my own at my dealership. If no places have them, then go to any Chevy or GM dealership since we are required to have one for the Colorados or Canyons. I wouldn't take them off unless you exceed the minimum thickness and have to wind up replacing the rotors itself.

 

Just so there is no confusion due to the retitling of my post, I am not asking for a way to fix the shaking. I know what is causing the shaking. I want(ed) to know if what the mechanic was telling me was right or wrong. Thank you for the response though IronMike, I did not know that a domestic dealership had onboard brake lathes. That is good to know.

 

Yes what they are telling you is correct. Your truck (same as mine) requires taking the whole hub assy off the truck, because the rotors are bolted to the back side of the hubs. You will have the wheel bearings in the open and stuff competely off that on a normal 2WD car wouldn't need to come off. The on the truck lathe sounds like a great invention, I didn't know there was such a thing.

For comparison, my BMW all you have to do to get the rotors off is remove the wheel and pop them off, the lug nuts plus one little bolt are all that hold the rotors on the car.

On your truck, yes it's harder, but take the opportunity to replace or repack your wheel bearing as long as they are apart anyway. Especially if you do any deep water crossings. Those are probably the original rotors right? I'm still on my original rotors.

On the do-it-yourself list of stuff, add a torque wrench to the list. As the hubs are going back on the wheel bearing nut (the one you need the 54mm or 2 1/8 inch socket for) needs to be torqued in a very strict proceedure. Here is a cheap source for the sockets http://www.handsontools.com/store/sh...roduct_id=2260

 

Hey man, I've replaced the rotors on my truck, so I can help you out if we get together. It's not that bad really.

 

sounds good to me. I might as well replace the wheel bearings then too.