Im not getting it fixed by the dealer, my dad wants to, but I really disagree since its not under warrenty, the dealer can usually "find" problems quite fast when the car is not under warrenty. Im just taking it to the local foreign auto, which specializes mainly in toyota, I took it there when I first bought the truck to make sure everything was is working order. I also know people that work there .

Do you think it would be bad to keep on driving it, theres no performance loss that I can feel. If its not gonna hurt anything, Ill just start doing stuff myself and see if the light comes back on

 

I had a PO171.. i needed to clean the Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF). lots of topics on yotatech already about that. Mine has run fine since.

my error code was accompanied by high idling and whatnot

edit: there's instructions on this page how to clean it:
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/mainte...tenancep5.html

 

OK, FINAL RESULTS IN!!! Took it in today, they said the MAF sensor needs to be replaced. Also said that the truck should run a lot better cause the sensor looked like it needed to be replaced before the light even came on. It was a "get everything done at once day" lol, rotors turned, new pads/shoes, new fuel line and fuel filter (fittings were rusty, glad thats pretty much all thats rusted on my truck) new MAF, oil change, and that would be about it. I cant wait to get it back tomorrow after school, driving my parents van gets old, hahaha.

 

ummm... "wow". replacing fuel lines? replacing the MAF on a 2000? turning rotors?

If I can ask, what was the bill for all that?

 

around $450 for everything, including labor. They tried cleaning it, but decided it was better off to replace it. My dad knows the ppl there, so I trust their opinion, and I trust them not to screw me, hahaha

 

really the only thing "wrong" with the truck was the MAF sensor. I do not have any record of the fuel filter ever being replaced, so the mechanic agreed with me on that one (110,000 miles), I think it was the fuel lines, they talked to my dad cause i was gone, whatever it was, I trust them, when i took a look, the fuel filter and fittings were really rusted. I probably could have held off on the fuel filter, but I decided it would be better to get it done now than to have to take the truck back in. The rotors and pads were our fault cause we didnt take the truck in when we should have. We replaced the front pads and rotors and not the rear shoes because they still had some life left to them. The rotors are warped because they have been hit with the majority of braking force to stop the whole thing.

 

okay... sigh. I just cringe these days at people paying the dealer for stuff like this.

The fuel filter is always a good idea, but can I ask about the rotors? Did you have them turned or replaced (you've said both things).

The reason I ask is that there's pretty good evidence that turning a set of stock Toyota rotors is NOT a good idea. They get too thin and will warp really easy the 2nd time around. Replacing them can cost as little as $65 in parts, and it takes under an hour to pull the old and put the new ones on.

 

I definitely did not take it to the dealer. The rotors were replaced a couple months ago, they are just going to turn them right now. They do warranty/guarantee their work, so if turning them screws something up, they will fix it. I could probably do the brake stuff myself, but since this is my DD and I have work after school, its just a lot easier to get it done by someone else all at once.

 

I have a question as I have this problem now and will be trying the MAF cleaning. After I clean the MAF will the CEL go out if the problem is fixed? or will I have to pull the fuse to reset it? If I have to pull the fuse to reset the CEL, which fuse do I pull. Sorry to sound like a newb just don't want to have the dealer do this work. Thanks for your help guys.

 

bump for my question.

 

Easy man... it's only been 90 minutes since you first posted it - and you're piggybacking on a thread that may not attract the attention to answer your question.


You should pull the fuse. The majority of CEL codes will stay "current" until you reset the ECU or clear the code with an OBD II reader. For those that will clear themselves, it can take a while - usually 2 or 3 instances of driving for a few miles before the ECU is convinced that the problem is gone.

Clearing the ECU is a breeze.. searching "reset ecu fuse" (no quotes) will get you a bunch of hits.

There's a fuse box under the hood, just behind the battery. Pop the top and use the legend printed on the top to find the fuse marked "EFI". Mine's the 3rd one up in the left hand column, I think your 99 will be in the same spot.

Pull that fuse, wait 20 seconds and put it back in (side note: people will tell you to wait anywhere from seconds to minutes. Mine clears in under 10 seconds). Put the top back on the fuse box and you're set to go.

 

i apologize, I didn't realize what little time had passed...my bad..thanks for the response..thought I would piggyback instead of starting another thread.

 

No sweat... And for something like this it's always better to start a new thread (or search!) - there are plenty of them on the forum and piggybacking will tend to get you little to no response.

The only reason I saw it is that I'm still subbed to the thread from trying to help dibble last month.


Good luck!

 

just a note guys ,any 95 and up OBDII system will not reset like the older pre OBDI and OBDI systems ,the ecm will keep the code stored untill you reset it with a scan tool.do not pull the fuse.

 

???

Ummm... sorry, but that's not true. Pulling the ECU fuse will reset our CEL codes on the OBD II systems. I've done it MANY times with and without a scan tool. It works fine.

The RAM holding the code in the ECU isn't NVRAM; remove the power and it loses what it knows.

 

The CEL will light when it sees two consecutive trips which have the same error. It will turn off by itself if it sees three consecutive trips without error. If you are impatient, then yes, pulling the ecu fuse will reset the codes.

The P0171 is widely recognized as a dirty MAF. Cleaning it is well documented here Be sure to actually get the hotwires themselves , and not just the IAT bulby sensor which is part of that same module.

Contact cleaner works, but I use Berrymans B-12 Chemtool carb & choke cleaner with good results as well.

 

Thanks for the info guys, it is good to know that I can get answers from knowledgable guys on this site.