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First Tune - up

 
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Old Dec 10, 2004 | 09:59 AM
  #1  
theryanator's Avatar
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First Tune - up

I contacted my dealership to find out about getting the OEM parts from them for a tune-up...I have never done one on my own before so I am not sure pricing wise if they are decent.

I have a 99 4runner V6 SR5 with 134,000 on it.

They quoted me this:

NGK Plugs - $6
Wires/Rotor/distributor cap - $125.00
Fuel Filter - $ 35.00

is that decent or could I get it less expensive elsewhere?

Also I plan to perform my tune - up in this order:

Seafoam: 1 can in the tank and a couple treatments of 1/3 to the engine casing through the PCV.

MAF sensor: Clean with Electrical cleaner

Fuel Filter: Replace, even though the dealership recommends against it (?)

Plugs/Wires/Distributor: Replace

Oil Change: Should I use regular oil or synthetic? What is the difference and reason you would use one over the other. Also, what type of oil filter would be recommended?

Air Filter: I am probably going to do this after the 1st of the year, perhaps an K AND N or somthing else. I have not really started my research on that yet. Any Recos?

Am I missing anything, or is there anything I should do differently? I used to tune up my Cherokee years ago, but it has been a long time so I have forgotten a lot. I am hoping to do this tune up to create a greater gas mileage...I am currently in the low teens...like 13.5...so BAD!
Old Dec 10, 2004 | 10:53 AM
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Your truck doesn't have a distributor, so no cap & rotor to replace. Not sure what the stealer was quoting you for; maybe the wires and coil packs?

Is that $6 for an entire set of six plugs? That would be a steal. Normally they cost $3-$4 each IIRC.

Most people here will tell you differently, but synthetic oil is not worth it IMHO. Unless you just want to extend the service interval. But you won't notice any performance gain.

K&Ns (and other filters like it) have been known to cause problems with the MAF. Also, there is some evidence that they don't filter as well as the OEM part. Do a search; there are a ton of threads on this. My recommendation is to go with the stock paper filter.
Old Dec 10, 2004 | 10:59 AM
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...and I recommend going with Mobil 1 synthetic 5-20, OEM oil filter, and Amsoil Air filter with deckplate mod and ISR mod. To each his own.
Old Dec 11, 2004 | 04:40 AM
  #4  
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If your going to change the fuel filter get a Toyota OEM.

And dont waste $ on K&N. Read THIS
Old Dec 11, 2004 | 03:51 PM
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Just finished doing the plugs, MAF and throttlebody on my '99 (new aquisition). Priced Denso's at the dealer but finally went against the grain (usually do) and bought Bosche Platinum +2's. Ran over 100K in my '95 with Bosche Platinum +4's and never had any problems and gas mileage was always pretty consistant (19 in town). So far, no problems. The original NGK/Denso's were never changed (60K by the original owner). I think a lot of the talk about NGK's & Denso's is just talk. BUT, you can never go wrong keeping your 4Runner in factory specs.

As for filters, only Toy. Change your fuel filter IMMEDIATELY. 100K+ means a lot of gunk in the old filter. Mine gets changed tomorrow.

I hope you've done your timing belt before now.
Old Dec 15, 2004 | 10:08 AM
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Have not done the timing belt...when I bought it from the dealer I had them check that out and they said it had probably another 10k to 15k left on it. Any reason to replace it sooner?

Ok, so is that pretty standard to go with OEM fuel filter and not an "aftermarket oe" filter as my local carquest said they could give me for half the price?
Old Dec 15, 2004 | 03:23 PM
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I will use Purolator or OEM, everything else is of questionable quality. Just took a unknown brand off my '99 and replaced it with Toy. The Toy filter was $32 at the dealer. Maybe half that at an auto parts store, but either way it's cheap protection for your injectors.
Old Dec 16, 2004 | 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by theryanator
Have not done the timing belt...when I bought it from the dealer I had them check that out and they said it had probably another 10k to 15k left on it. Any reason to replace it sooner?
If it was replaced at 90k like it should have been you won't need to do it again until 180k. If not, then it probably should be replaced.

If it breaks it won't damage your engine but it will leave you stranded.
 
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