All I have is "squish"...
06-18-2005, 05:57 AM
#21
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#1 (passenger side) or #2 (Driver side) ?
#2 can be tough, but if you take all the intake stuff off, it's easy-peasy.
I've found #5 can be done quick, with the right extensions and a swivel socket.
That said, I KNOW there is a new plug resting on the top of my right A-arm...I dropped it there last time I did mine and it STILL hasn't bounced out and I can't reach it!
#2 can be tough, but if you take all the intake stuff off, it's easy-peasy.
I've found #5 can be done quick, with the right extensions and a swivel socket.
That said, I KNOW there is a new plug resting on the top of my right A-arm...I dropped it there last time I did mine and it STILL hasn't bounced out and I can't reach it!
06-18-2005, 06:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Blair
That said, I KNOW there is a new plug resting on the top of my right A-arm...I dropped it there last time I did mine and it STILL hasn't bounced out and I can't reach it!
06-18-2005, 08:23 AM
#23
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"Blair", it was the #1 on the passenger side towards the front of the vehicle.
Here it is tomorrow & I'm still feeling it
I took out the infamous "charcol canister" to get into the #5, so it was a breeze.
And, yeah, I've already done the ISR/intake mod, so had that base covered in advance.
And I'd go get that plug, as <96 Runner> suggests, because that could potentially be pretty nasty.
Thanks all around though, for sharing the pain.
Here it is tomorrow & I'm still feeling it
I took out the infamous "charcol canister" to get into the #5, so it was a breeze.
And, yeah, I've already done the ISR/intake mod, so had that base covered in advance.
And I'd go get that plug, as <96 Runner> suggests, because that could potentially be pretty nasty.
Thanks all around though, for sharing the pain.
Last edited by 94x4; 06-18-2005 at 08:31 AM.
06-18-2005, 11:36 AM
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Brake Problems
Hey 94X4, I had a lot of trouble with my brakes too, when I used the Mighty Vac, I could never get it to work right. Unlike you, I never lost all brake power, but my pedal just did'nt feel right, it felt a little squishy and a little lower after using the Mighty Vac. I did solve the problem though, by going the old fashion way, by getting my neighbor to help me to physically pump the brakes. He got inside and I got under the truck and started at the RR, then I went to the Load Sensing Proportioning & Bypass Valve(located above the rear axle) and bled it, when I did that it had a huge amount of air in there and it took about 30 seconds before I even saw any fluid come out, after I did the LSP&BV the pedal stiffend right up. I then went on and did LR, RF, & LF and after we bled all of them I had full and stiff pedal again. One quick note before you start, put a block of wood(like a 2x4 under the brake pedal so it does'nt go to the floor.
06-18-2005, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by <96 Runner>
You should get one of those magnetic extensions and snag it. If that thing comes off while you are driving, it could really do some damage on another vehicle. Just a thought.
Got it!
Thanks,
06-18-2005, 08:13 PM
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O.k. people, so I've been at it a-l-l d-a-y l-o-n-g with a "MityVacII" & all that i've managed to accomplish is a brake feel similar to that described by
"rbmc", some swollen forearms from pumping the damn thing & even more injury to my hands, i.e., they're worn out! :cry:
I don't know why it got to be so bad either, "mt goat", other than I changed the PS pump along with the pads & shoes & they're being somehow tied together through vacuum.
I can still "pump" the brake up to stiffen it, but then it's right back to just squishy the next time I need to use them although there were a few times before when it actually went all the way down, so at least that's stopped.
Yeah, I'd break down & enlist the help of a neighbor, but they all seem to have their heads up their a**es around here & just not terribly friendly, let alone willing to take the time out of their busy day to sit in someone else's vehicle & pay attention long enough to do the simple job right.
I may just end up breaking down & paying a local garage to do it for me so that I can get it done now, the damn things have been particularly hard to bleed (going on some three days total now), more so than anything else that I've ever had to bleed before & that's including reverse bleeding a bimmer & alpha before.
Ah well, yet another tale of the trials & tribulations of a 'yota owner. Thanks to one & all for the advice &/or encouragement, I do appreciate it.
"rbmc", some swollen forearms from pumping the damn thing & even more injury to my hands, i.e., they're worn out! :cry:
I don't know why it got to be so bad either, "mt goat", other than I changed the PS pump along with the pads & shoes & they're being somehow tied together through vacuum.
I can still "pump" the brake up to stiffen it, but then it's right back to just squishy the next time I need to use them although there were a few times before when it actually went all the way down, so at least that's stopped.
Yeah, I'd break down & enlist the help of a neighbor, but they all seem to have their heads up their a**es around here & just not terribly friendly, let alone willing to take the time out of their busy day to sit in someone else's vehicle & pay attention long enough to do the simple job right.
I may just end up breaking down & paying a local garage to do it for me so that I can get it done now, the damn things have been particularly hard to bleed (going on some three days total now), more so than anything else that I've ever had to bleed before & that's including reverse bleeding a bimmer & alpha before.
Ah well, yet another tale of the trials & tribulations of a 'yota owner. Thanks to one & all for the advice &/or encouragement, I do appreciate it.
Last edited by 94x4; 06-18-2005 at 08:38 PM.
06-19-2005, 05:06 AM
#27
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Here is a quote from Gadget's site:
"Normally the piston, which is connected to the brake pedal, only travels so far in the master cylinder. When using the brake pedal flushing method, the piston can travel much further down in the master cylinder and contact an area that has never been touched by the piston or its sealing O-ring. If the area has corrosion in it you can ruin the O-ring in just one pass and then you will need a new master cylinder. This is most likely going to occur in a vehicle where brake flushing has not been done as often as it should have been. If it has been neglected then you should only have it power flushed. "
If your pedal has been going all the way to the floor since this happened I would start looking for a replacement master cylinder. How much brake fluid have you used so far in flushing?
"Normally the piston, which is connected to the brake pedal, only travels so far in the master cylinder. When using the brake pedal flushing method, the piston can travel much further down in the master cylinder and contact an area that has never been touched by the piston or its sealing O-ring. If the area has corrosion in it you can ruin the O-ring in just one pass and then you will need a new master cylinder. This is most likely going to occur in a vehicle where brake flushing has not been done as often as it should have been. If it has been neglected then you should only have it power flushed. "
If your pedal has been going all the way to the floor since this happened I would start looking for a replacement master cylinder. How much brake fluid have you used so far in flushing?
Last edited by mt_goat; 06-19-2005 at 05:08 AM.
06-19-2005, 10:45 AM
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A quart &/or 32 fl. oz. or more (probally more) & I've been using a "MityVacII" to bleed it with, not the "pedal method" & have only experienced it (the pedal) going to the floor during driving & braking around town, although no leaks are evident anywhere.
Also, in the process of bleeding the brakes I've seen the fluid go from an almost completely black color to the yellowish color of the "Valvoline SynPower" fluid that I'm pushing in there to help condition the lines & the system last longer...guess someone forgot about flushing the brake system, huh?
Also, in the process of bleeding the brakes I've seen the fluid go from an almost completely black color to the yellowish color of the "Valvoline SynPower" fluid that I'm pushing in there to help condition the lines & the system last longer...guess someone forgot about flushing the brake system, huh?
Last edited by 94x4; 06-19-2005 at 11:00 AM.
06-20-2005, 11:17 AM
#30
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If the old fluid was black and the pedal went to the floor even once (for what ever reason) then I betting a beer on a bad master cylinder.
A quart of fluid should have been enough the flush it good unless you let it run dry, in which case you will need to start over again.
A quart of fluid should have been enough the flush it good unless you let it run dry, in which case you will need to start over again.
Last edited by mt_goat; 06-20-2005 at 11:19 AM.
06-20-2005, 11:50 AM
#31
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Don't say that it's the master cylinder, I'm not wanting to hear that at all. :cry:
And I said "...almost completely black...", not "black".
And I said "...almost completely black...", not "black".
Last edited by 94x4; 06-20-2005 at 11:53 AM.
06-20-2005, 11:58 AM
#32
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Sorry, hope I'm wrong about it. I'm no brake expert, so keep looking for something wrong. I have heard something about flushing the master cylinder too, but I have never had to do it.
06-20-2005, 01:28 PM
#33
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I'm not sure that I understand the bit about "...flushing the master cylinder..."
inasmuch as I've read about "bleeding" it, although you would think that I am "flushing" it by my constant pouring of fresh fluid into it as I bleed the brakes ?
inasmuch as I've read about "bleeding" it, although you would think that I am "flushing" it by my constant pouring of fresh fluid into it as I bleed the brakes ?
06-20-2005, 01:52 PM
#34
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Sorry I meant bleed. Have you seen this 93 FSM? http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...akesystem.html
06-20-2005, 02:30 PM
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Well, I tried and tried, even going through a couple of different search engines, and all that I could manage to come up with is the message board at "Pi Kappa Phi" fraternity, so perhaps the link is dead or something.
Any help with this, anyone ???
Any help with this, anyone ???
06-20-2005, 04:28 PM
#38
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It works fine for me but try this one: http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/ or this one http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showfl...5&o=14&fpart=1
06-20-2005, 05:33 PM
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Okay so you do not want to hear it......so I will not say it. I would go purchase a master cyl rebuild kit.....and rebuild the master cyl.....as long as the thing is going to be empty of fluid I would also look at doing each of the wheel cyl as well...and as long as the brakes are off why not go ahead and get those stainless steel braided lines...Now that more pressure can be sent to the pads why waste that on old and worn pads go ahead and replace those. After all you are just trying to wipe out some much needed maint work....See there I did not even say that the master cyl is shot and needs to be replaced or rebuilt ...........
