your-real-dad

Almost have the rebuilt 3.0 3VZ installed, and I'm wondering if I can fire it up without the transmission installed? Given my skill-set and tools, it would be nice to make sure nothing is leaking while I still have the hoist and before I do all the work to put the tranny back. So is there a reason not to run it without a load?

And, has anyone tried attaching the tranny to the engine, on the hoist, and installing the whole thing? The FSM seems to imply that's the best way to do it, but they also assume you have special tools (unlike the ones I've built from 2x4s..).

MudHippy

There's an initial start up and break in procedure that's usually followed. Firing it up just to check for leaks isn't really it. Though it's something that's done during which.

My routine for a new/rebuilt 3VZ-E is:

1. Get everything plugged in and ready to go.
2. Disconnect primary ignition lead(spark plug wire to/from the ignition coil), and/or eliminate fuel flow to the engine(unplug the VAFM in your case).
3. Crank the engine for 15-20 seconds or so, to establish oil pressure. The oil pressure gauge, if available, may show pressure rather quickly. But that doesn't mean oil has been pumped throughout the entire system yet. You want to see a healthy amount of oil pressure first, then give it some additional cranking time for the oil to flow everywhere it needs to be.
4. Plug everything back in and start it for real this time.
5. Run the engine until it reaches operating temperature. During which time you are topping off the coolant in the radiator, checking for leaks, adjusting the warm idle speed, checking/setting the ignition timing, and listening and observing for things that don't sound or look right. You don't want to dilly dally with any of it either. It needs to all get buttoned up, running right, and ready to break in ASAP(preferably before letting it cool down, and not after having been run for an hour while you dink around with things, as soon as it's warmed up, you need to be done/nearly done tweaking with it). You could do everything so far without the transmission installed, and it shouldn't matter. I'm not sure how you're going to start the thing(starter bolts to the bellhousing). But in theory it's possible....somehow.
6. Provided 1-5 went smoothly, you need to get the engine broke in immediately. It needs to be done ASAP after the initial start up/warm up. Whichever way you choose to do it. And a load is HIGHLY necessary for that process to be effective.


On the engine/trans installed together...they say so...but it sure looks/sounds like a total nightmare to me.

your-real-dad

Didn't think about no starter motor.... maybe I could prop it, like an old airplane, and win a Darwin award? Is it necessary to fill the engine block with coolant, or can I count on the thermostat to open up, even though there is only air (hot) on the engine side and coolant (cold) on the radiator side? Seems like the engine could over heat before the thermostat warmed up, especially since it's isolated with a gasket...

millball

Running the engine without the tranny is one thing, but running the engine without coolant....

Don't do it.

your-real-dad

Not what I meant. I gave up and did the full install with tranny and starter. The radiator is filled, and I started it up, and the engine heated very quickly to steam rising from the radiator filler cap. But the water inlet at the thermostat was cool to the touch. So either I put the thermostat in backwards, or the engine is empty and there isn't enough thermal mass in the very hot, trapped air to heat the thermostat and thus make it open...so do you need to "prime" the coolant in the block? Is that even possible?

millball

I had this issue with my 3vz and I found that my radiator has a metal dam behind the top hose inlet.

This made the radiator appear full to the top while there was actually little coolant in the block.

You should remove the top hose from the radiator end and then pivot the hose til it is near straight up vertical.
Then add coolant thru the hose into the block until coolant runs out of the open radiator inlet hose barb.
This should put enough coolant into the block to make the thermostat open as the engine warms up.

millball

Any resolution??

your-real-dad

Yup. I poured coolant into the engine outlet hose (#2 idler) and it slowly filled the block. I know it's at least partly full, since it's dripping out of the small engine to oil cooler hose, which I forgot to tighten the clamp on, and can no longer easily reach. My fuel pressure damper is dripping gas all over the exhaust manifolds, so (no longer being young and daring) I think I need to fix that before I take it for a drive again. Hope I can do that without pulling the intake plenum.