Hey guys, I was just wondering what you all did for a front driveshaft after you finished SAS'ing?
I took my stock one and clearanced the heck out of it/lengthened it, but for some reason the friggin thing shakes like hell when I put it in 4wd. I know the balancing is way off but would that make it shake at slow speeds?
The thing seems to smoothen right out if i speed up but when i start moving from a stop it vibrates like crazy or when its engine breaking/going slow...

 

is your joints in good shape?

 

Unless you rotated the knuckles on the front axle, your pinion angle is way off the the CV shaft (should be at 0 degrees for smooth operation):
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...n-Measurements

 

This is what i did. http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/cvmod/

The shaft turns smooth as silk by hand... Once the vehicle is moving its a whole different story though.

 

Read the page I posted a like to above. The u-joint on the bottom (pinion) end of the shaft will only run smooth if it is at 0 degrees operating angle. You need to do something like this to fix it:

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/rotated_housing/

Or live with it and leave the hubs unlocked until you need 4WD.

 

who did the the lengthening? Crappy job is gonna give you crappy vibration. Also if you took out too much material from one side. Long slip joint?
pics of shaft?

4crawler is usually dead on for this stuff...

 

oh i thought the u joint on the bottom was fine, i thought it was all in my cv joint on top. Thanks for the link.

I did the lengthening myself, basically just cut it in half and got some tubing with with the same inner diameter as the outer diameter of the shaft, then welded er up lol...

ill try and get a pic of it for you guys asap.

 

 

Do you have a high pinion front? I have the same problem but I have a single joint on each end and a low pinion. you may want to add a long slip on there too you are going to have problems with it coming apart.

 

I made mine longer too keeping the stock slip its a bad idea make sure is doesnt almost fall out at full droop bet it will and if it gets binded up cause it "almost slips out" bad things will happen



it looks like the DS u joints are phased but check again that will make it do weird vibration type things

also chekc the double cadigan joint the center peice gets worn out and if it breaks in 4wd it will smack your tranny UH OH

I made mine out of reciever stock cant do any better than 15-20mph but it does not shake it is noisy though and I have unlimited slip also if I smack it on a rock my cheap duralast lifetime u-joints break. u-joints are an easy trail fix plus i get a new one for free when i get back into town.

 

oh yea i ditched the double dumb joint and used a single out of a rear ds its much better has more degreeage

 

it really kinda looks like your drive shaft is not phased to each other maybe a few splines off hard to tell for sure from your picture

 

what does phased mean?

One thing i was thinking about doing is to find a rear driveshaft and cut it down to fit the front, then it would have regular U joints on both sides. Do you guys think that would work? Im just not sure if it will bolt up to the flanges...

Thanks for the input guys!

 

Phasing really only applies to a single-cardan shaft (i.e lining up the u-joints):
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri....shtml#Phasing

On a CV shaft, not important, although I still try and line up the u-joint bearings with the lower CV joint bearings.

 

yup thats it X2

I wrench better than type thanks 4crawler

hey did you check to see if you have crazy play between the u-joints onthat double dumb joint? I bet thats the vibro vermin givin ya greif

 

That's what I have/did, I put the double cardon on the rear and the single on the front. you will also have the swap the Tcase flanges at the same time or get a TG adapter flange.

I have the single cardon in the front of my 4runner with a 3" sas and 12" slip. I also have crazy vibrations when in 4WD. If I go over 20kms/hr it starts to smooth out a bit but still not very good. I'm going to try and hi-pinion next to try and reduce the angle I have on the front.

 

i'd ditch the cv setup if i was you. your pinion really needs to be facing the t-case flange for it to work correctly. rear shaft will work, you'll have to redrill the flanges to bolt it up and figure out some slip.



i made a square shaft. under $50, no vibes, used rear u joints and re-drilled the flanges. works awesome even up to speed.

 

yep-u-joints acting like a fuse are cheaper and easier to fix than a R&P

OP-you definitely need some more slip travel than stock:
not mine but why you want to make sure your stuff works


probably won't happen to you but thought it was a cool picture

 

That is some pretty gnarly carnage haha...
I think you guys are right about the phasing, it looks like it is about 1 tooth off, dunno if that will make a drifference but ill correct that and try it.

If not I guess im gonna build a square driveshaft. I might need to anyways to correct the slip joint problem. The long travel slip joint kit is like $300 up here lol, and i already gotta get one for the back either way...

Where did you guys get the ujoint setup to weld on the square stock for the square driveshaft? Did you just cut them off of old driveshafts?

Thanks!

 

yes just use the old ones off a rear shaft. the stock slip yoke is the quick part to fit in the 2" square tube, the yoke for the 2.5" requires a little more work.

you can do some searching and find alot of links for it.