I already have cut the front up and grind it all clean. I just got a welder too and I'll be welding up frame plates soon.

I'm missing a few things here and there. I actually am broke and I need to get my beast back on the road. If anyone can give me some front leaf hanger bolts, trunion bearings, shock bolts, the red and black part for the manual hub, seals for the front axle.. I'll take anything. lol.

I don't have pics yet but I will post some asap.

I'm going to be running 37in. MTR's on cragar black soft 8's. 529s. open diffs for time being until I upgrade later. 63" chevys in rear. 14" Bilsteins 5125s. Rancho RS 44044 springs up front. Birf eliminator kit. 6 shooter knuckles with hi steer. etc etc..

I am also looking for a free rear leaf sprung axle housing, and bearings for rear axle, ring gear for 529 (I have an extra pinion), U bolt flips for the rear, leaf spring bolts, shock tabs, rear shock relocation..

Any help would be appreciated. Yotatech has already helped me out greatly and the site is awesome! Everyone has been a real help.

Thanks, Scott

 

6 shooter arms are longer than standard hysteer arms, I am referring to the distance from the trunnion post to tie rod end. This could cause problems with the drag link and the tie rod making contact. It could also make contact with the leaf spring if you run a lot of lift.
The Toyota trunnion cap does not go into the bottom of their knuckle very easily like it should.
The knuckle on the driver side does not have proper clearance in order use a torque wrench on the lower caliper bolt.
They do have a bolt for removing the arm which is nice.
They are much larger than standard hysteer and knuckles which hopefully translates to extra strength.

These are the observations that I made when going from Sky's hysteer to six shooter knuckles and arms. I did not have any trouble clearing everything because my steering box is moved so far forward and I don't have a lot of lift, however it has caused some people trouble. I would make sure that you have the six shooter knuckles while you are mocking up your steering and suspension.

Please if you do not already know how to weld, practice on some scrap metal until you think it looks good, then take the welded scrap metal to a welding shop to have it inspected. I have seen people with poor welds on there trucks which are being driven on the street, poor welds can break off road which would suck or on the highway which could be deadly.

Hope this all helps
Lewis

 

Seems I also heard that the 6 shooter knuckles also turned out to be no better than the original design. I'll see if I can find that again.
(and that the 5th stud mod is probably more useful)

 

my 5th stud tech
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index...=54514.new#new

 

If your steering box is moved forward like it should be you won't have any drag link/ tie rod issues.

I've installed 4 sets of 6 shooter knuckles/steering arms and had NO problems whatsoever.

 

Hub parts ?




Shipping and their yours..

 

Well my buddy and I are practicing with my new welder and we haven't started welding up the frame yet. I'm gunna practice and practice until I can weld fairly decent and safely.

But anyway umm we were gunna try to leave the steering box in the same place so I wouldn't have to cut the body mount up. Is it absolutely necessary to move it forward? I'm going to be running about 11in or so lift with the ranchos and 6in shackles with the shackle hanger under frame.

Thanks for the help so far everyone.

PS I'm still looking for free parts lol.

Thanks Scuba for your help.

 

Scott, Looks like the dial and faceplate I have are in working order. I was able to find the ball bearing and spring as well as the dial's o ring.
Other then the fact the o ring isnt in the greatest condition its ready to drop on.
You said you need the 6 bolts that keep the faceplate to the hub body yes ?

I should have those to.

Since I trust you as a buyer ill get it shipped out tomorrow and shoot you a txt, you can paypal me the shipping next payday..
Kool ?

 

I'm not a 100% positive but i think gears only work as a "set"..

i.e. i don't think you can use a motive pinion on a yukon ring, i think they need to be a matched set.

 

Sounds perfect man. Oh and yeah I do need the bolts.
Thanks a ton!

 

Oh I see. That sucks! lol.

 

So is it true that the ring and pinion are a matched set or can I get just a ring gear for the pinion I already have (which is a yukon 529 pinion). ????????

 

not a good idea...ring and pinions are a macthed set

 

Here's a little update on my truck. I really wish I could post pics but some one stole my digital camera that I spent a good amount on to get a nicer one. It really sucks and pisses me off. I'm going to confront the guy I think stole it IF I ever see him again.

We finished the front end but we will most likely have to move the steering box forward which is a b#@ch. The dang shackle hangers were welded on just a lil off.. and one of the shackle angles is a lil different than the other one which is very sad.

We put the 37s on up front and it looks really good. I still have to put the manual hub dial in right and grease it up. But it doesn't matter because I don't have a driveshaft yet. lol.

As for the rear I started chopping it up yesterday with the torch. There is one particular bracket next to the gas tank I am sketch about so my buddy Scuba suggested a cutting wheel for my angle grinder! I'm gunna pick one up at the local hardware store asap.

I still need a few parts like rear axle housing or leaf spring perches, dom tube, gears and a few other things but they will come soon hopefully.

I have around 7 pics on my phone. So if anyone can receive picture message on their cell phone text me @ 530-575-9625.

Thanks

 

Ok I'll try this thread. I just realized I made two threads about the same thing. I'm a dumass. lol. Anyway. Can some people check out my welds? They are in my photo gallery. Here is a link. I'm just wondering if they look ok.. Its the first time I've welded so I'm not 100% sure.

https://www.yotatech.com/album.php?albumid=1060

 

Oh PS - I didn't do that shackle hanger, a buddy did.

 

oh I see how it is. I'm shunned now huh. I know I suck so I understand. I can't even afford rear gears. That pathetic huh. But im going to college to get a degree! or going to the academy.

 

did the ifs junk you cut off have lock out hubs? if so the lock out portion is interchangeable with the solid axle lockouts.

 

If you had small bubbles in the weld caused by not enough gas or contaminants such as paint then the welds will be weak. If you noticed them when you were welding I would cut out the weld and redo it.

Heat penetration is also important but because of the paint it can not be seen. In this picture you can see the heat marks around the weld which means that it got hot enough. If you did not see these marks caused by the heat I would redo them because it may not have bonded properly.


These welds look pretty good but it is hard to say because of the paint.




This weld looks like it has bubbles in it.


This weld I would be concerned about proper penetration mainly because of the flow.

 

why didnt you cut a hole in the frame and weld the tube in instead of what you did in the last picture?? i honestly think that that will not hold the way it is!