blake.nemitz

i checked out the cv mod and even with the 81 cv i couldnt get enough angle out of it without swapping to a high pinion. i would like to someday or get another tcase to make it a bit longer, i also wanted high speed with no vibes, and without doing a cut and turn to maintain proper pinion and caster angle i could not use the cv anyways. maybe a few degree shim will help bring the pinion up a little while maintaining a caster. also traigear springs seem to mount the axle forward a little which turns it back a little more so i think i can use 3 or 4 degree shim to return it to the stock specifications

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

A little more caster is recommended for larger tires, and road driving. Check pirate4x4 toyota faqs.

blake.nemitz

yea but what im saying is that its a little too much, if i put 3 degree shims in i would have a couple degrees left still, plus it would bring my pinion up a little and alleviate the extreme driveline angle a little, and just got back from a short trip I think if I trird to drive sixty more than a few miles it would explode, the driveshaft that is, it is at like 38 degrees and maxes out at 44 to 45 degrees and thats pretty border line their. If I had the money I would do a Bad Boy 80 degree cv on both ends and never worry about it again

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

go for it, a friend's truck was set up like that with shims and a single t-case. He had to run a large stablizer and had to run a low steer set up, don't know what springs he had.

Dual cases will require rotating rear pinion angle and cv but thats a little less technical.

Quite the dilemna your in. Always thought it funny how the SAS venders don't go into detail about driveshaft mods needed. when installing dual cases one of the salemen at marlin told me it was fine to run it with the vides from poor DS angles if I wanted, when I asked about bearing wear he just told me so what just change them more often. Hmmm, $700 new t-case plus $700 regeared built dif. Yeah worth the effort and money of a correct driveshaft in my opinion.

blake.nemitz

well I believe my pinion angle sucks because of the way i cut the frame tubes, i mounted then so my shackles only lean about 7 degrees after springs broke in, but it also lifts the back of the spring more, if that makes sense, it pushes the pinion angle down. It drives great now, no death wobble with bfg all terrains un balanced, but it also looks like the tires turn over more when i turn all of the way. If anyone knows of a place to get weld in shims for a SFA let me know, only looking for 1.5 to 3 degrees. I would leave it alone if it wasnt for the pinion angle. sorry to hijack your thread!!

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Shims available below, bolt-on and weld-on versions:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/Shims.shtml

t-dro

So did I just screw myself putting a 1310 series joint on a 87 ifs shaft? Just dropped it off at the shop for extended travel and a 1310 joint to increase my angle

noble

Not to resurrect an old thread but ran across these in my searches
http://4xshaft.com/, then navigate to the super-flex U-joints page.
Look decent, any opinions for a double u-joint set-up? Also has some good info floating around

noble

I have a total noob question for this thread also... Acquired a rear shaft, when I cut it I'm assuming I use the tranny side (front of the shaft) joint off the rear DS and that will serve as my t-case side joint for my front DS?

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Assuming you are doing a u-joint (single cardan) shaft, then you need the two u-joints and a slip yoke section. You'll need to do something to the front t-case flange to fit a u-joint bolt pattern as it is likely drilled for a CV joint. Options are to drill 4 new holes in that flange:



Or swap in a stock rear flange or swap in a double/triple drilled flange that are available from a variety of sources.

SHINE RUNNER

if your not doing duals use the same slip yoke and u joint and same cv joint. get some 3"od schd 40 tube cut to length needed and weld the slip yoke spline on one end and the cv joint on the other. before welding on the cv its best to take the joint apart and clearance it http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/cvmod/ .its very easy job and mine almost touch the ground when unbolted. stay away from shimming. its best to do duals with SAS in my opinion and it helps with the shaft angle.if doing duals use the same method but use a long spline kit. i also run a cv on the rear also