dirtbike5051

I have completed my SAS and went to get a driveshaft made and they said the angle is at max with the truck sitting level. I have no clue what to do now..... The SAS is from All-Pro and it is the 6 inch lift. The springs have settled by now but still the angle is too great. Do I need to rotate my whole axle and spindles? or can I shim it at about 4 degrees and wish it luck?

Ardent

Dual t-cases would be another option. Otherwise, you might be able to shim it. but, IMO, it doesn't look that bad. Perhaps get another opinion?

edit:

Check this out too, last page. Rage's angle doesn't look any better than yours.

RaginYota

don't sweat it man, just get your driveshaft made or make a square one yourself and enjoy it.

neoworm0

You can cut and turn your knuckles. You can try to find a High pinion third member. Go dual cases. Lower you tcase and tranny. Do a combination of all of the above.

Depends on funds and how anal you want to be about doing it right. I went with a High pinion third and dual cases and it worked out great. Getting that driveshaft angle as close to ideal as you can will save you headaches (and money) in the long run. Just my .02$ though. Lot's of people just run them with a huge amount of angle.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

dirtbike5051

cool, good input. Went to the driveshaft shop today and was told all the same things. I think I am going to get one made for now. After I get tired of it breaking I will resort to cut and rotate. Just Spent a lot on the SAS, lockers, and other parts on the truck that this will have to wait. I definately want to do it right eventually, I am anal like that since I work on Mercedes all day long. Plus the Mustang project is on the front burner this month.

ScottyC

iTrader: (1)

Run a cut down rear shaft up front and ditch the CV shaft. The stock IFS CV is only good to 21*. The solid axle CVs are good to 35*. But, the rear non-CV style setups are good to 41*. You need the non-CV style. Especially with a V6.

You need to redrill your front flange on the Tcase side or buy a triple drilled flange. You'll also need a long travel slip joint on the shaft to keep it from over extending and pulling itself apart.

99% of driveshaft places don't use or have access to Toyota flanges and joints. They try to make a standard U.S. style joint and flange to work. Plain and simple is that those U.S. style setups don't have enough clearance to work. So, go grab a rear shaft out of a 4cyl truck or 4runner, and have it retubed along with the longer slip joint. Its the only "real" option you have. If they tell you all they have is a 1310 joint, then don't let them do it. Have them rebuild a Toyota shaft ONLY.

dirtbike5051

awesome advice because they were telling me to do the 1310 joint. I have already purchased a longer slip joint for it so I am already half way there. I am probably going to hit the junkyard this weekend for that shaft. I did request for toyota parts when I was at both the driveshaft shops and they both just laughed at me... kinda made me mad about the whole deal and that is why my truck is still sitting with one driveshaft. I will let yall know how it works out!

YOTA666

What do the longer slip joints come in?

dirtbike5051

got it as a kit from all-pro offroad

ScottyC

iTrader: (1)

All-Pro or Trail-Gear both have them.

tc

If you're having it retubed, ask for heavy wall. Mine are .090" and holding up really well.

86Tankota

I'm in the same boat with my rig, and heard the same things from the local drive line shop, i did some research and found this http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/cvmod/ haven' tried it yet but plan to.

blake.nemitz

i have the same runner and lift pretty much, due to the v6 i went with single u jount on both ends, i used 2nd gen d shaft ends no cv higher angle than 79 to 80 something i can get 47 degrees out of them both with minor trimming. also had to redrill flanges for correct bolt pattern, if you have a drill press it makes it alot easier. 10 inch spline no binding or vibs at 60 miles per hour. ill send you pics and instructions if you send me your email, i did it all myself for the cost of the trail gear spline and 20 bucks worth of junk yard shaft parts. I also think god smiled upon me and a trail gear shaft that was not machined off center delivered to the shop, threw in a cople table spoons of dry bunker sand to try to balance, seems now i get a little vibes but I think bad boy cv's both ends and keep the 10 in spline.

blake.nemitz

this guy knows his stuff, just make sure you get the 3rd gen truck or 2nd gen 4runner flanges they are a little longer on the yoke then the earlier ones. i made mine from an 81 rear shaft and ended up just using the tube cause the stock ends wouldnt angle enough, also used rear tcase output flange on the front to match dshaft flange, and redrilled axle flange, ill send you pics to email for some reason cant post therm here

91_TOYOTA_4x4

interesting thread now im thinking about what i gotta do when i eventually SAS. so basically i have to build some franken shaft or im screwed? does anyone make a good shaft that will work good? if somebody made one for a decent price i would rather buy it then build it? i hear all the time from people who make them and get bad vibes and all that and thats not something i want to do lol my truck is my DD and i will be using 4wd in the snow so i cant have bad vibrations and all that lol anyways so let me get this strait. i have to find a rear driveshaft like the one i have in the back, then buy the longer slip joint from tg, cut the drive shaft down and drill my t case flange?

yotAddiction

^ Listen to this guy.

Your pinion angle doesn't appear to be that bad, just from looking at the pictures. A stock IFS CV will not work. You could clearance the CV (search on here) or look for an early model pre 86 front CV shaft and lengthen it.

The cheapest and easiest thing to do is to make yourself a square front driveshaft using u-joint flanges at both ends. You will not have a problem with the angles with this setup. If you go this route, like said above, you will need to drill out your stock front pinion flange UNLESS you run the pre 86 u-joint flange up front (to mate up with the SA pinion flange.)

There are plenty of write ups here on Yotatech, Marlin, Pirate, etc on how to make the square shaft. It is VERY easy to do and with a little patience and careful measuring the vibrations can be avoided (to a certain extent.)

Just pay attention to the amount of slip and compression you need. If you make the shaft too short and it pulls apart, it isn't that big of a deal. If you make it too long and it bottoms out upon compression, you may end up damaging the transmission or transfer case. Just be careful!

blake.nemitz

I used a rear tcase output flange on the front to match the driveshaft i would be making, i did however have to clock the diff flange and redrill for the dshaft flange to bolt up. the hardest part was cutting the tube perfectly square to weld in the spling nice and true. if you send me your email ill send you pics with instructions on how i made mine

91_TOYOTA_4x4

Alright cool. I will pm you ina sec.

I can fab one up at my friends house, but i want to try and make one that will not vibrate and be a total piece o junk lol

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

There is alot of good advice and knowledge on this thread.

I would recommend you read 4crawler.com driveshaft 101. There are pros and cons to several of available options. Its great to ask advice but better if you learn for yourself.

Good luck.